Looking to buy 00-03 A8 need some advice
11-28-2013, 12:20 PM
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Looking to buy 00-03 A8 need some advice
Hi, I'm looking to buy an 00-03 A8 on the cheap, and I know cheap Audi's turn out to be expensive Audi's.
I need an AWD automatic vehicle that's decent on gas, has issues so I could buy cheap and fix threw my shop. I love my luxury and performance cars and for the past 9 years I've been buying older luxury vehicles that I couldn't afford new and it's worked out for me. It's between an 00-03 A8 D2 or a 02-03 Subaru Auto WRX, and that's not luxury at all but a great AWD car and easy to work on.
I've done a nation wide search and found about 8 A8's and 2 A8L's all being 2000's with either a bad transmissions or a fuel pump issue with 126k-180k on them for $1,500-$2,600 with out a best offer or getting it to me. Most of the owners don't know too much about there cars so it's hard to find maintenance done to them.
I manage a repair shop and we don't rebuild transmissions but I do have discounted labor charges. My mechanic is pretty knowledgeable & I do a lot of research myself, but he's never pulled or installed an AWD Audi transmission before.
How come all the A8's I found with trans issues are 2000's, did they fix the issues on the 01-03's? If so I've read the difference in years is the valve body and if it's a better trans, can't I just buy a used one, swap the valve body with no rebuild? I also read the A6 4.2 is the same but you need to swap the flanges.
What's the cheapest and most reliable place I could have a trans re-built if there is no labor involved? I've seen some threads saying $3,500 and that's outrageous.
This guy made a pretty good thread about a ZF rebuild, but we are not capable of doing this. http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46685
One of the guys with an 00 A8 144k said he had the trans rebuilt but it needs to be synced to the computer so it doesn't drive till that's done. What does that mean and is that dealer only?
For the fuel pumps that are bad, can't I just buy this, and swap out the guts with out the whole fuel pump assembly? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Si...-/181264955824
What else should I look for when buying an 00-03 D2 and with my resource can I do what I want on the cheap, I say like $3,000 running and driving fine or is the trans too much of a headache?
I need an AWD automatic vehicle that's decent on gas, has issues so I could buy cheap and fix threw my shop. I love my luxury and performance cars and for the past 9 years I've been buying older luxury vehicles that I couldn't afford new and it's worked out for me. It's between an 00-03 A8 D2 or a 02-03 Subaru Auto WRX, and that's not luxury at all but a great AWD car and easy to work on.
I've done a nation wide search and found about 8 A8's and 2 A8L's all being 2000's with either a bad transmissions or a fuel pump issue with 126k-180k on them for $1,500-$2,600 with out a best offer or getting it to me. Most of the owners don't know too much about there cars so it's hard to find maintenance done to them.
I manage a repair shop and we don't rebuild transmissions but I do have discounted labor charges. My mechanic is pretty knowledgeable & I do a lot of research myself, but he's never pulled or installed an AWD Audi transmission before.
How come all the A8's I found with trans issues are 2000's, did they fix the issues on the 01-03's? If so I've read the difference in years is the valve body and if it's a better trans, can't I just buy a used one, swap the valve body with no rebuild? I also read the A6 4.2 is the same but you need to swap the flanges.
What's the cheapest and most reliable place I could have a trans re-built if there is no labor involved? I've seen some threads saying $3,500 and that's outrageous.
This guy made a pretty good thread about a ZF rebuild, but we are not capable of doing this. http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46685
One of the guys with an 00 A8 144k said he had the trans rebuilt but it needs to be synced to the computer so it doesn't drive till that's done. What does that mean and is that dealer only?
For the fuel pumps that are bad, can't I just buy this, and swap out the guts with out the whole fuel pump assembly? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Si...-/181264955824
What else should I look for when buying an 00-03 D2 and with my resource can I do what I want on the cheap, I say like $3,000 running and driving fine or is the trans too much of a headache?
11-28-2013, 03:22 PM
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Transmission rebuilds seem to be a fact of life with these cars.
There's lots of theories as to why. I think replacing the valve bodies has been tried with various degrees of success, but you'd need to take each transmission on its own merits.
And just because a transmission comes out of an A6, doesn't mean it's any less likely to fail.
You'd also need to be wary that you're dealing with a 5HP24 and not a 5HP19 from an A6.
$3500 is about the going rate for a rebuild, and normally includes all new internals.
I'd be watching out for the "needs recoding" guy for two reasons:
1. If the original TCU was used, there would be no reason to recode it.
2. If the money has been spent on the rebuild, why wasn't it recoded anyway?
As for the fuel pump;
Yes, rebuilding the pump assembly is very doable. I did it quite successfully earlier this year.
The pump you linked to is quite expensive though. I bought mine here.
There's also a seal kit you will need from the dealer for about $100... You may get away without it, but be sure you get youself some new 10mm, or 12mm aluminium crush washers for the banjo bolt on the high pressure fitting.
One thing thats not mentioned in a lot of posts about removing the assembly from the tank is that it corkscrews out. Get the rotation right and it goes in and out very easily. Get it wrong and it's a pain in the butt and you risk damaging something!
Some higher milage 5v engines are starting to get wear in their cam chain tensioners, which is part of the VVT system. Genuine replacements are $500ea (1 per bank), but some aftermarket replacements have recently started appearing on ebay for about $325. It will sound like lifters initially, particularly on hot starts.
A lot of D2's are also getting to the age where the central locking pumps start failing. These can be relatively cheaply repaired using kits from Ebay.
Same goes for the ABS modules, which can be sent off.
There's also a common failure in the oil cooler, where a plastic water pipe ages and fails resulting in a coolant leak. I'm not sure where to buy the kits, but there is a replacement available with an aluminium replacement pipe.
A major easily fixed issue many owners experience (myself included) is the blockage of the drain ports for the sunroof, Air Conditioner, and Plenum (under windscreen). The ports themselves have dust caps in the shape of a "+" that are more trouble than they're worth and are often cut off to leave a regular drain hose...
The rest of the car is pretty robust, besides electrical glitches that are often just age issues with connectors (unplug and replug often fixes them).
There's lots of theories as to why. I think replacing the valve bodies has been tried with various degrees of success, but you'd need to take each transmission on its own merits.
And just because a transmission comes out of an A6, doesn't mean it's any less likely to fail.
You'd also need to be wary that you're dealing with a 5HP24 and not a 5HP19 from an A6.
$3500 is about the going rate for a rebuild, and normally includes all new internals.
I'd be watching out for the "needs recoding" guy for two reasons:
1. If the original TCU was used, there would be no reason to recode it.
2. If the money has been spent on the rebuild, why wasn't it recoded anyway?
As for the fuel pump;
Yes, rebuilding the pump assembly is very doable. I did it quite successfully earlier this year.
The pump you linked to is quite expensive though. I bought mine here.
There's also a seal kit you will need from the dealer for about $100... You may get away without it, but be sure you get youself some new 10mm, or 12mm aluminium crush washers for the banjo bolt on the high pressure fitting.
One thing thats not mentioned in a lot of posts about removing the assembly from the tank is that it corkscrews out. Get the rotation right and it goes in and out very easily. Get it wrong and it's a pain in the butt and you risk damaging something!
Some higher milage 5v engines are starting to get wear in their cam chain tensioners, which is part of the VVT system. Genuine replacements are $500ea (1 per bank), but some aftermarket replacements have recently started appearing on ebay for about $325. It will sound like lifters initially, particularly on hot starts.
A lot of D2's are also getting to the age where the central locking pumps start failing. These can be relatively cheaply repaired using kits from Ebay.
Same goes for the ABS modules, which can be sent off.
There's also a common failure in the oil cooler, where a plastic water pipe ages and fails resulting in a coolant leak. I'm not sure where to buy the kits, but there is a replacement available with an aluminium replacement pipe.
A major easily fixed issue many owners experience (myself included) is the blockage of the drain ports for the sunroof, Air Conditioner, and Plenum (under windscreen). The ports themselves have dust caps in the shape of a "+" that are more trouble than they're worth and are often cut off to leave a regular drain hose...
The rest of the car is pretty robust, besides electrical glitches that are often just age issues with connectors (unplug and replug often fixes them).
Last edited by twentysevenlitres; 11-28-2013 at 03:26 PM.
12-12-2013, 01:45 PM
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Ok guys, I went to go look at a 2000 A8 with 112k on it. It's missing all the center caps, one of the lower fog light grills is missing, a large dent on the front fender and a large scrap along the rear quarter panel, about 30% tire tread left.
Besides that the exterior is pretty clean, including the interior which has pretty good wear for a 13 year old car.
It was listed as a private seller on CL and from texting the guy said it was his aunts car for 2 years and a dealer friend is selling it for her. I go to the dealer and the owner was not there and the salesman says they took it off a trade 6 months ago, lol.
The gas was on empty and it was below zero outside and the car was not started in awhile. I heard a lifter type ticking noise which again could of been from not being started & the cold. The check engine sign was on and the ABS light, and it looks like each ABS sensor is about $250 if that's the problem. I took it for a very short test drive to see how the trans was, forward and reverse but didn't really get on it.
He asking $4,000 I offered $2,800 he countered $3,500 I said $3,000. I still need to pull the check engine codes, and figure out which ABS sensor is bad if my new code reader, reads Audi's. I'm also getting a Car Fax report.
Is this car worth $3,000 and anything else to look for? Any quick help would be great because he's mauling over selling it for that price and will let me know tomorrow.
Besides that the exterior is pretty clean, including the interior which has pretty good wear for a 13 year old car.
It was listed as a private seller on CL and from texting the guy said it was his aunts car for 2 years and a dealer friend is selling it for her. I go to the dealer and the owner was not there and the salesman says they took it off a trade 6 months ago, lol.
The gas was on empty and it was below zero outside and the car was not started in awhile. I heard a lifter type ticking noise which again could of been from not being started & the cold. The check engine sign was on and the ABS light, and it looks like each ABS sensor is about $250 if that's the problem. I took it for a very short test drive to see how the trans was, forward and reverse but didn't really get on it.
He asking $4,000 I offered $2,800 he countered $3,500 I said $3,000. I still need to pull the check engine codes, and figure out which ABS sensor is bad if my new code reader, reads Audi's. I'm also getting a Car Fax report.
Is this car worth $3,000 and anything else to look for? Any quick help would be great because he's mauling over selling it for that price and will let me know tomorrow.
12-13-2013, 07:02 AM
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Have you reviewed the Audipages checklist?
http://www.audipages.com/usedA8.html
I got mine with 71K on the clock and very clean overall. The paint they used on a lot of the plastic interior parts (door sills, seat control buttons, B pillars, etc.) is soft and easily scratched now, but those bits are the only things showing any blemishes.
Do the intake flaps work? http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/44689.phtml
How are the vacuum lines? Even after going over everything, I've still got projects to do (like the headrests and lumbar supports). Fortunately they are all small projects and require more elbow grease than parts. And, I'm still learning more and my to-do list will keep me busy for a while.
Most importantly for you, how is the timing belt, and will you be able to do all the fluids yourself (like the transaxles and tranny?) it may cost a bit to get all the baseline maint. done.
If you're OK with staying busy, go for it. Enjoy, it's a great car.
http://www.audipages.com/usedA8.html
I got mine with 71K on the clock and very clean overall. The paint they used on a lot of the plastic interior parts (door sills, seat control buttons, B pillars, etc.) is soft and easily scratched now, but those bits are the only things showing any blemishes.
Do the intake flaps work? http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/44689.phtml
How are the vacuum lines? Even after going over everything, I've still got projects to do (like the headrests and lumbar supports). Fortunately they are all small projects and require more elbow grease than parts. And, I'm still learning more and my to-do list will keep me busy for a while.
Most importantly for you, how is the timing belt, and will you be able to do all the fluids yourself (like the transaxles and tranny?) it may cost a bit to get all the baseline maint. done.
If you're OK with staying busy, go for it. Enjoy, it's a great car.
12-21-2013, 06:54 AM
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Ok guys, I went to go look at a 2000 A8 with 112k on it. It's missing all the center caps, one of the lower fog light grills is missing, a large dent on the front fender and a large scrap along the rear quarter panel, about 30% tire tread left.
Besides that the exterior is pretty clean, including the interior which has pretty good wear for a 13 year old car.
It was listed as a private seller on CL and from texting the guy said it was his aunts car for 2 years and a dealer friend is selling it for her. I go to the dealer and the owner was not there and the salesman says they took it off a trade 6 months ago, lol.
The gas was on empty and it was below zero outside and the car was not started in awhile. I heard a lifter type ticking noise which again could of been from not being started & the cold. The check engine sign was on and the ABS light, and it looks like each ABS sensor is about $250 if that's the problem. I took it for a very short test drive to see how the trans was, forward and reverse but didn't really get on it.
He asking $4,000 I offered $2,800 he countered $3,500 I said $3,000. I still need to pull the check engine codes, and figure out which ABS sensor is bad if my new code reader, reads Audi's. I'm also getting a Car Fax report.
Is this car worth $3,000 and anything else to look for? Any quick help would be great because he's mauling over selling it for that price and will let me know tomorrow.
Besides that the exterior is pretty clean, including the interior which has pretty good wear for a 13 year old car.
It was listed as a private seller on CL and from texting the guy said it was his aunts car for 2 years and a dealer friend is selling it for her. I go to the dealer and the owner was not there and the salesman says they took it off a trade 6 months ago, lol.
The gas was on empty and it was below zero outside and the car was not started in awhile. I heard a lifter type ticking noise which again could of been from not being started & the cold. The check engine sign was on and the ABS light, and it looks like each ABS sensor is about $250 if that's the problem. I took it for a very short test drive to see how the trans was, forward and reverse but didn't really get on it.
He asking $4,000 I offered $2,800 he countered $3,500 I said $3,000. I still need to pull the check engine codes, and figure out which ABS sensor is bad if my new code reader, reads Audi's. I'm also getting a Car Fax report.
Is this car worth $3,000 and anything else to look for? Any quick help would be great because he's mauling over selling it for that price and will let me know tomorrow.
Just my thoughts on checking the transmisson for good/bad: I bought my '02 L from guy in Peekskill NY, and went on a very short test drive in which the car ran fine. As soon as I put it on the road I found that the transmisson begins slipping when engine temp gets up to normal op. I need to baby it to get it to move anywhere and it prgressivly gets worse the longer it's driven -eventually going into Limp mode- until it cools down, i.e. overnight. Long and short, if you really wanna get it THOROUGHLY check the trans: a longer test drive, mash it a little, make sure no slippage up inclines. I have a hard time believing my seller didn't know it was going. Gonna have to rebuild it myself now
12-21-2013, 09:50 AM
#6
AudiWorld Senior Member
A8 in need of transmission = Tozo (seek and ye shall find)
Good gas mileage? Sure, ALWAYS drive down hill.
Cheap and practical, BIG userbase, cheaper parts...WRX
If you happen to find an A8 owned by a little old lady who only drove it to and from church and it needs a fuel pump, then buy it and expect to pay $$$ to feed this thirsty beast.
Good gas mileage? Sure, ALWAYS drive down hill.
Cheap and practical, BIG userbase, cheaper parts...WRX
If you happen to find an A8 owned by a little old lady who only drove it to and from church and it needs a fuel pump, then buy it and expect to pay $$$ to feed this thirsty beast.
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