Latest recomendation on brake pads
#11
AudiWorld Member
That POS HF tool sheared the cheap chinese roll pin they use for assembly…I used a drill bit shank in place of it for a temp fix…had to pull the drill bit shank every 180 degrees and reinsert it because I was too lazy (and the bit was HARD) to dremel the bit to length and epoxy it in.
I now use a pneumatic tool that works very cool…with two cars with screw in rear calipers, it helps. This isn't a bad price either considering today's prices:
Air Caliper Wind Back Brake Piston Pad Compressor Tool | eBay
Make sure you get a real pneumatic (air-operated) tool rather than Astro Pneumatic which is a trademark…that's a manual tool.
I now use a pneumatic tool that works very cool…with two cars with screw in rear calipers, it helps. This isn't a bad price either considering today's prices:
Air Caliper Wind Back Brake Piston Pad Compressor Tool | eBay
Make sure you get a real pneumatic (air-operated) tool rather than Astro Pneumatic which is a trademark…that's a manual tool.
How did you manage to put a drill bit in there? You just match the size and flash cut it to fit?
#12
We have a wide range of brake pad options as well as all the right tools for installation available.
I've always liked HAWK HPS pads. Lower dust than OEM and have good initial bite with higher resistance to brake fade.
I'll be happy to offer recommendations or price quotes if needed!
Jason
I've always liked HAWK HPS pads. Lower dust than OEM and have good initial bite with higher resistance to brake fade.
I'll be happy to offer recommendations or price quotes if needed!
Jason
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Oops..that sounds freaky….
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Fond some pbr for the rear so let's see how they work.
One side was no problem and the pins came out of the carrier. The other side was a lot tougher. One pin seized in the carrier. Got it out but need some clean up work. I will run a drill down it and run the pin on my wire wheel
The caliper was a real biotch to wind in. Would spin but not wind in. Didn't have clearance to get the expansion tool in.
I took two bar clamps to hold the caliper in place, then just put the right disc on the piston with the 3/8 drive adapter, put my extention on and pushed like crazy as I turned, after 10 minutes it moved a tiny bit. Finally got the spreader in. And took me another half our of grunting to get the piston in.
I think that caliper is not long for this world but good enough for now.
If you guys know the story of my rust bucket car you know I'm going no where near that parking brake . Or it will be caliper time for sure.
While In there I sprayed down the rear bolts holding the rear strut, the parking brake assembly and the bleed nipple, ran out of light... Enough for one night I think.
Oh and the rear sway bar looks almost rusted right through
Fond some pbr for the rear so let's see how they work.
One side was no problem and the pins came out of the carrier. The other side was a lot tougher. One pin seized in the carrier. Got it out but need some clean up work. I will run a drill down it and run the pin on my wire wheel
The caliper was a real biotch to wind in. Would spin but not wind in. Didn't have clearance to get the expansion tool in.
I took two bar clamps to hold the caliper in place, then just put the right disc on the piston with the 3/8 drive adapter, put my extention on and pushed like crazy as I turned, after 10 minutes it moved a tiny bit. Finally got the spreader in. And took me another half our of grunting to get the piston in.
I think that caliper is not long for this world but good enough for now.
If you guys know the story of my rust bucket car you know I'm going no where near that parking brake . Or it will be caliper time for sure.
While In there I sprayed down the rear bolts holding the rear strut, the parking brake assembly and the bleed nipple, ran out of light... Enough for one night I think.
Oh and the rear sway bar looks almost rusted right through
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