SloopJohnB@mac.com

Is that pin strong enough/rated to lock the crank against removing the crankshaft pulley? I dunno…haven't pulled that pulley or looked at the bentley to see whether a crankshaft pulley counterhold/special tool is required? AFAIK the pulley is removed using the 8 bolts that hold it to the crankshaft snout and counter holding the vibration damper with the serp belt at the alternator. In which case there isn't a lot of torque required to remove those little bolts. That big basturd in the middle..however…I wouldn't remove that without a counterhold tool using a few of those 8 holes….even if I had to fabricate one.

jseklund

I have removed the bolt 3 times using just the locking tool. You need a long breaker bar to break it free - it is torqued to about 150 foot pounds plus 180 degrees I believe ...it is on there good. The locking pin holds it just fine and my pin looks brand new still.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Thanks…the bentley ebahn is silent about counterholding for the center crankshaft bolt. But I think you're right…the crankshaft locking pin should be able to hold it. Supposed to replace that center bolt every time, but if you hold the old one up to a new one and it's not stretched or threads distorted...
The torque is 200NM +180degrees. slightly less than 150ft-lbs is fine.

jseklund

I have replaced and reused - it is a stout bolt. The first time, I didn't realize I had to replace, so I reused it and that has been fine....but I've replaced each time since.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Betcha next time you pull the turbo pipe?

SloopJohnB@mac.com

And now you get to remove the vibration damper (first) and then the toothed belt sprocket to get to the front main seal. There is a special tool to remove that front main and yet another special tool to press in the new main seal using the BF crankshaft bolt. Some people have used a couple of metal screws 180 degrees apart and pliers to yank the old seal out…YMMV. Tapping in a new front seal has also been done with a piece of pvc pipe.

tester123

I don't know if you should be concerned or what here (most likely not)... Mine did the same as in the pin after 2 or 3 turns by hand became real tight. I didn't want to take a chance, pulled it out and noticed that the threads on that pin were sort of chewed or worn out. The first few are supposed to be like that but the latter threads should not be compromised. They were in my case. I called Blauparts and they sent me another the next day. This one was the "newer type" as it was much shorter and of course, it was new. I was able to hand-tighten all the way and only used socket to make it snug at the end.

When you do put the old plug back in, make sure it goes nice and easy without any issues or slipping threads. Then watch out for any oil leaks for couple days or so after driving etc.

Kris Hansen

Yes, that's what it's for..

Kris Hansen

I've reused mine twice now..