ricoblanco

I just fixed my cigarette lighter and parking brake switch today, and brought my camera along to document the removal of the center console. This was done on a '96 A6.

<b>Tools Needed:</b>

Phillips &amp; flathead screwdrivers
Small flathead jewelers screwdriver
8mm Nut driver or socket wrench



The first thing you need to do is remove the wood trim piece around the gear selector. Use a flathead screwdriver as shown. You may need to use the small jewelers type to get the piece lifted up enough to slide the larger screwdriver underneath. Note the cut out area on the trim piece. This is where you need to insert the screwdriver. Be careful while doing this as the screwdriver can easily slip and scratch the finish (as you can see I did).

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Lifttrim.jpg">
<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Cutouttrim.jpg">


Notice where the tabs are and what they look like.

When you are prying the piece up, the staples holding the tabs in place may separate from the wood. If this happens, use needle nose pliers to pull the tab out from the metal clip.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Stapleslifted.jpg">


Once the tabs are pulled out, lift the trim piece up and out towards you. Doing so will pull the from tabs out of the slots.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Tabsontrimpiece.jpg">

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Trimslots.jpg">


Now remove the black rubber piece in the same fashion:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removerubberpiece.jpg">


Remove the two phillips screws shown:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removescrews.jpg">


Next, you need to remove the 8mm hex head screws from each side of the console. Slide both seats fully forward to access the screws.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Remove8mmscrew.jpg">


Lift the parking brake lever up as far as you can. Remove the handle by pulling the tab out under the handle using a small flathead screwdriver. A small piece of plastic will keep the tab attached to the handle.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Tabone-brake.jpg">
<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Tabremoved.jpg">


Slide the handle off. It may take a little elbow grease to remove it.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removee-brakegrip.jpg">


Remove the two cupholder pieces by pulling from the bottom out to about 45* (they are only held on by three pieces of velcro). Then push down on the top of the cup holder to separate the five little tabs from the console.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removecupholder.jpg">


Pull the carpet back as shown and remove the two phillips screws. You may want to shift the console up a couple of inches to aid in removing the screws.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removespeakerhousing.jpg">


Lift the two tabs where the screws were, pull the speaker housing out about an inch, and flip it upside down. Remove the two phillips screws holding the RJ11 phone jack on.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/RemoveRJ45screws.jpg">


Remove the speaker housing.

Slide the RJ11 phone jack through the hole of the console.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/RemoveRJ45.jpg">


Remove the OBD II connector by using a screwdriver to press in the three tabs. Everytime you press a tab in, press down on the connector.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/RemoveOBD.jpg">


Now you need to disconnect the cigarette lighter connector and bulb. You will need to feel around under there with your hand. The bulb and connector will pull out quite easily as there are no tabs to press. If you need to replace the bulb, now would be a good time. Also, be careful when handling the bulb as it can easily be damaged. I some how manhandled it too much and it burned out on me. :-( The bulb is available at any auto parts store and is a 2721, sub-mini wedge base, instrument &amp; indicator bulb.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Ciglighterconnections.jpg">


OK, now you can remove the center console. Move it along the same angle as the parking brake lever. You will need to slide the leather boot off at the same time.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removeconsole.jpg">


Assembly is the reverse procedure.

ricoblanco

I have never had any need to use my cigarette lighter until now, when I tried using a cell phone charger. When I purchased the car, it was missing the lighter itself. The PO must have had the thing off for a long time as the contacts in the socket corroded and rusted. So, instead of buying a new assembly, all I needed to do was use some emery cloth to clean all the contacts.

The first thing you need to do is check if the fuse is bad. This can be found under the hood on the drivers side (96 A6). Pull the metal bar that holds the plastic cover on towards you. Remove the cover. The 15A fuse is shown here:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Cigarettelighterfuse.jpg">


If the fuse checks out, you may have corroded contacts like I did. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to remove the cigarette lighter is to <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/94952.phtml">remove the center console</a>. I've heard of somebody else just removing the screw that is under the carpet and pulling the unit up, but I do not see how this is possible. The holder can be slid back about a quarter inch and then lifted out, but only after the bulb has been removed.

After the center console has been removed, flip the console upside down and press the metal tabs in on the socket with a screwdriver.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removeciglighter.jpg">


Once you remove the socket and the red plastic from around the socket (carefully of course), clean the contacts with emery cloth. There are four total.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Cleancontactsciglighter.jpg">

After cleaning, it is a good idea to use a multimeter and test for continuity. An easy way to go about this is to insert the cigarette lighter into the socket and push it all the way down until it clicks into place. Test the two terminals on the bottom. There should be a reading. Remove the cigarette lighter by pulling on the two tabs that hold the lighter in place.

ricoblanco

After having to replace my rear brakes, due to my wife not knowing the parking brake was partially engaged and driving home, I realized that the brake light was not illuminating when the parking brake lever was lifted. I learned that this was caused by the contacts corroding. All that was needed to solve the problem was some emery cloth to clean the contacts.

Please check to see if the brake light illuminates during the self test when you start the car. If it doesn't, then you will need to check the fuse (S9 - 10A) and/or replace the bulb in the instrument panel. If, however, it does light up when starting the car, but not when the parking brake is engaged, then you most likely have corroded switch contacts.

To access the switch you will need to <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/94952.phtml">remove the center console</a>.

Once that is done, you will have a straight shot at the switch.

Disconnect the black/brown connector with the one wire coming from it from the switch.

Remove the phillips screw holding the switch in place.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removebrakeswitchscrew.jpg">


Slide the switch out a quarter inch and remove.

Using the aforementioned emery cloth, clean the two contacts shown.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Cleanbrakeswitchcontacts.jpg">


Install the switch and test it by starting the car (the parking brake should be engaged already from the console removal procedure). The light should illuminate on the dash board.

RedDragoN750

<ul><li><a href="http://www.autotransonline.ro/TECHNICAL%20HELP/Audi%20Diagnostic%20Trouble%20Codes.pdf">http://www.autotransonline.ro/TECHNICAL%20HELP/Audi%20Diagnostic%20Trouble%20Codes.pdf</a</li></ul>

lgranch1

Audi A6/S6 (type 4A) Climate Control Fix
Application
Model: 100, S4, A6, S6
Year: 1992-1997
Platform: C4
Type: 4A

Disclaimer
This page contains things I've worked out from a mixture of:

Haynes manual
Bentley manual
Research on the web
Reverse engineering circuits
Making measurements on electrical circuits
There are no guarantees as to the accuracy of any of the information here. Before trying any of the suggested procedures, please verify for yourself that the information is applicable.

Also, my experience is with right-hand-drive UK spec cars; US and European cars differ significantly.

Symptoms
One or more of the following:

Can't change temperature
Can't get air to switch between dash vents and defrost/footwell vents
Can't get air to switch between defrost vents and footwell vents
Using the diagnostic channel on the climate control display (if you don't know how to do this, see http://www.audifans.com/kb/Climate_control_codes), you get one or more of the following codes:

08.5 Temperature Regulator Flap, static block
08.7 Temperature Regulator Flap, sporadic block
possibly other 08.x codes
11.5 Central Flap, static block
11.7 Central Flap, sporadic block
possibly other 11.x codes
13.5 Footwell/Defroster Flap, static block
13.7 Footwell/Defroster Flap, sporadic block
possibly other 13.x codes
If you get multiple codes, then it is probably a good idea to start with the Central Flap actuator (servo), as a faulty one of these has been known to cause multiple fault codes to appear which go away when the actuator is fixed/replaced.

The equivalent DTC codes from a 1551, VAG-COM, or similar, would be:

00603 - Positioning Motor for Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor (V85)
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap Motor (V68)
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap Motor (V70)
Diagnosis
It is tempting to blame the Climate Control head, but this is rarely at fault. The problems are nearly always due to failed motors in the actuators. Out of 10 cases that I know of, only one of them had a faulty CC head, and in fact the reason it was faulty was due to a short circuit in the motor in the actuator that had caused a regulator in the CC head to blow.

If you have access to another CC head, try substituting it and see what happens. If one of the motors has gone short circuit, this could cause the regulator in the CC head to blow, but I think this is only likely if the short is there for an extended period. Do this at your own risk!

Once you have satisfied yourself that the actuators are at fault, then you have to get to them - not easy!

Procedure
The Central Air Flap Motor (V70) and the Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor (V85) are both located on a black plastic mounting tray that is located behind the radio and climate control head. You need to remove the rear console, centre console, driver's storage compartments and the glove box. The Haynes manual has a pretty good description of this.

It is also useful to remove the ducting that supplies the face vents for the rear passengers and the two right-angle large-diameter junction pieces that are partially in the way - you should then have a clear view of the tray.

Move the front seats fully back and then remove the tray that holds the two flap motors. There is one (gold/silver) screw holding each actuator to the flap, and one (black) screw at each end holding the tray in place. The tray should then unhook, and come forward and out.



Be careful with the white plastic connecting link (4A0 820 341) that goes from the actuator to the black relay lever. They're fragile! You should be able to prise off the clamping washer, but go carefully. The black relay levers just lift out if you rotate them to the correct angle. You can pop the ***** out of the sockets on the red and blue connecting links - it's no harm to lubricate these joints. Service the actuators according to this excellent pdf from a chap called Marc

Here are some additional notes I made:
Central air flap motor V70 with position sensor G112
4A0 820 511
Blue connector housing
This is my best guess at the wiring:

1 White Motor+
2 Brown Motor-
3 Grey Pot +
4 Green Pot ground
5 Yellow Pot wiper

Potentiometer is 4.85k

When +ve is applied to 1, the output shaft turns clockwise (as viewed looking at the L-shaped actuator on the output shaft.

The wiper on the potentiometer varies from 500R (short arm of L against end stop) to 4.7k (long arm of L against end stop)

Motor markings:
1 397 220
243 7V
5265

The motor is a 7V motor. See below for a description of how the Climate Control Head generates the 7V. If you haven't got a source of 7V for testing, you'll probably get away with using 12V for short periods of time (no one has reported blowing one up yet). Don't apply 12V and leave the motor stalled for any significant length of time though!

Due to the commutator, the resistance of motor varies depending on phase of motor - usually in the range 20R - 40R. 30R is typical.

If the resistance doesn't seem right, and the motor won't run off a 7V supply, then it's worth stripping, cleaning, lubricating and rebuilding the motor and actuator according to the pdf listed above. I've fixed three completely dead and three failing actuators so far using this method. Two of the dead ones had gone short circuit due to brush dust filling the gaps in the commutators. The other one had gone high impedance due to poor contact at the brushes.

Current drawn from a 7V supply is just over 20mA for a working one, and about 30mA for my reconditioned ones (brushes not worn in yet?)

Footwell/defroster flap motor V85 with position sensor G114
4A0 820 511 B
Red connector housing
Identical to V70, except value of potentiometer is 4.39k.

Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap V68 with position sensor G???
443 820 511 A
Black connector housing
Identical to others - I forgot to measure the value of the potentiometer!



I measured the motor windings in this one. It appears to be a three-winding motor - probably wound in star configuration. Between any two sections of the commutator there was a resistance of 30R - that would imply a star with 15R windings.

As this servo is in the engine bay (or close to), I would expect it to give more problems than the other servos - particularly with the the potentiometer. So far, this hasn't happened to me - one car had all three servos fail, the other car had two servos fail. In each case, it was due to motor problems rather than potentiometer problems.

Climate Control Head
One of my servos still didn't appear to work after I'd reconditioned it, and I traced (by substituting for a good one) the fault to the Climate Control Head. I did a spreadsheet of the pinouts and also I opened up the unit, reverse engineered the faulty drive stage and drew a crude circuit diagram.



There are two 8.5V regulators (ST L4940V85), one set to deliver 8.5V, the other set to deliver 9.2V. Each of these regulators supplies two dual power op amps (Siemens TCA2465). Although there are four dual op amps on the circuit board, in UK spec cars there is no airflow flap motor, so only three of the four channels are used. The op amps use their dual outputs to provide a differential drive to both terminals of the motor so they can generate voltage in either polarity to drive the motor in either direction.

Look for signs of overheating on the PCB underneath the regulators, or on the metal tab of the regulators and replace if necessary. It's not expensive (£1.33 from Farnell). That fixed the fault for me - cheap fix!



By the way, perceived wisdom on various mailing lists and web sites indicates that the Climate Control Heads are rarely the problem. The most likely culprits seem to be the servos themselves, and it's nearly always brush/commutator problems.

I've noticed quite a few CC heads appearing on eBay recently. Many of them come from Lithuania and are not outrageously expensive. I'd appreciate some feedback from someone who has used one.

Here's an article that I found useful:
Re: defroster '93 100cs
User account number (aid): 62432
Posted by bigeyes on 2003-12-27 08:02:29
In Reply to: defroster '93 100cs posted by Jeffrey K. on 2003-12-26 13:08:07

There are three of these servo motors on my '92 100CS.

1-Part # 4A0 820 511 Central Flap Motor (blue connecter) it is located under the dash behind the radio and CC. (PITA to get out)

2-Part # 4A0 820 511A Temp. Regulator Flap Motor (black connecter)located under the hood in the A/C plenum chamber on the left (drivers) side of the blower housing. (I had to remove windshield wiper motor assembly to get it out) You can see it at http://www.audiquattroparts.com/heater_servo_motor.htm

3-Part # 4A0 820 511B Footwell/Defroster Flap Motor (red connecter)it is located with item 1.

Go to taylorautomotive.com and do a part # search for items 1 &amp; 3. These are Audi numbers but they will work in the search.

None of the flaps would work on mine but only the central flap motor was bad. After replacing it all motors worked properly.

Hope this helps some.

http://www.taylorautomotive.com


Thread:
defroster '93 100cs - Jeffrey K. 2003-12-26 13:08:07 (63 views)
Re: defroster '93 100cs - bigeyes 2003-12-27 08:02:29 (47 views)
I think this is controlled by the flap in the windshield cowling... - marcogyver 2003-12-26 18:53:27 (35 views)

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rmccomiskie

Good background information about wheel specifications.

<a href="http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0205scc_wheel_tech_guide/index.html">Wheel Technical Guide: Everything You Need to Know</a>

rmccomiskie

<img src="http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/4442/stockwheelsoz9.jpg">

1 Type 1 15x6" 4A0 601 025 A Z7P
2 Type 2 15x7" 4A0 601 025 B Z7P
2 Type 2 17x8" 4A0 601 025 M U7A
3 Type 3 15x7.5" 4A0 601 025 D Z7P
3 Type 3 16x8" 4A0 601 025 E Z7P
4 Type 4 16x7.5" 895 601 025 M Z17
5 Type 5 15x7" 4A0 601 025 G Z7P
6 Type 6 15x7" 8D0 601 025 B Z17
7 Type 7 16x7" 8D0 601 025 C Z17

This information taken from my 1992-97 100/S4/A6/S6 Parts Listing.

berlina

<ul><li><a href="http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_fluid/audi_automatic_transmission_fluid.shtml#howtochang eaudiautomatictransmissionfluid">clicky here for guide</a></li></ul>

Bebeto

Set of 3 for cheap. Blauparts has one of them in their kit.<ul><li><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32184">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32184</a</li></ul>

DaveInSaltLake

Please delete this post from the FAQ and post your Q in the main forum.