Im@wesome~ out!

<ul><li><a href="http://avalonmotorsports.com">Talk to Brian @ avalon</a></li></ul>

alms_lefko

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2720040.phtml">CV Boot Replacement</a></li></ul>

Hokie_Audi

My 2001 1.8T recently suffered the same Incorrect Flow Condition and it was quickly traced back to a broken hose - mine had cracked right at the nipple coming from the combi valve.

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3302-1/IMG_3240.JPG">

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3305-1/IMG_3241.JPG">

The most difficult part of replacing this tubing is getting it routed in and around the intake manifold and all of the other tubing that resides under there. So I decided to employ an old trick used for running cable and wires in conduits to make getting the new tubing into place much easier.

First you'll want to lay out your tools.

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3317-1/IMG_3247.JPG">

You'll want to have:

-a few feet of 5/32" inner diameter vacuum tubing

-needle nose pliers (locking hemostats would be perfect)

-A few awls and picks in various sizes

-A magnetic pen for getting dropped hose clamps and the like

-some zip ties

-electrical tape

-and, most importantly, ribbon from a birthday balloon. Why ribbon? It's both strong and thin which helps with routing around things. It's also light and smooth which is helpful since you'll be attaching it to some old tubing with very little strength left.

Start by removing the broken line from the combi valve. Pull it up a bit (there's not much slack) and tie one end of your ribbon to the severed hose. Make the not tight, you don't want it to slip.

Next reach down in between the intake runners here and grab a hold of the tube you're going to be replacing. The tube you want is almost directly below the hose coming from the coolant expansion tank.

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3308-1/IMG_3242.JPG">

It's the braided tube shown in the detail shot below, facing towards the front of the car. A curved pick is ideal for this.

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3311-1/IMG_3245.JPG">

Once you get a hold of the tube pull it up through the gap in the intake runners there. You should also go ahead and pull it off of the solenoid nipple if you can. If not just cut the tube, and then pull the ribbon through.

Now you should be left with a piece of ribbon running through the same route as your new tube. Go ahead and remove the ring clamps from both the combi valve and the solenoid if you haven't already. This will probably be the second hardest part of this job since you can't get to either one very easily. Just be careful and go slowly and they should slide right off the end with a little persuasion. I found that taking a pick and digging some of the remaining hose material out really helped loosen them up.

Once the clips are out you can now pull your hose (heh hehe heh) using the ribbon. Tie the other end of your ribbon to the new hose. Make a good tight not once again, but this time wrap the head of the tube up in electrical tape. This will help secure the line to the tube and it will keep the tube from catching as you pull the ribbon.

Next gently pull the ribbon up through the intake runner, dragging the new tube along the way. On the other end try and help guide it around the combi valve. With a little gentle tugging you'll have the tube routed in no time.

Then cut the tube to length, get it on the nipples at both ends being careful not to lose the ends and secure with zip ties. I strongly recommend putting the zip ties on first, and leaving them just short of tight; it is far easier than trying to put them on after the tube has been pushed over the nipples. This is especially true for the end under the manifold. Use your needle-nose pliers to cinch up the zip ties and you're done! Be sure and leave enough slack in the cable so that you can make nice broad 180 degree turns as this will lessen the chance of the tube breaking in the future.

And while you're doing this you might as well replace the tubing between the intake manifold and the fuel pressure regulator. If one of those small tubes has degraded to the point of cracking the rest will follow suit soon enough.

Here's the aftermath of my tube replacement project, note the ribbon on the central piece of tubing.

<img src="http://www.unclench.org/gallery/d/3314-1/IMG_3249.JPG">

SpeedyDTP247 CQ+UrS4

<ul><li><a href="http://www.s4wheelgallery.com/">very detailed wheel gallery</a></li></ul>

Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)

<center><img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/FluidCapacityChart.gif"></center><p>

Shard7

Quantities for flushing (in sequence):

Rear Right: 0.3 liters (0.32 qt)
Rear Left: 0.3 liters (0.32 qt)
Front Right: 0.2 liters (0.21 qt)
Front Left: 0.2 liters (0.21 qt)

Total: 1.0 liters (1.06 qt)

Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/18AEBReadinessCode.jpg">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/18ATWReadinessCode.jpg">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/18AWMReadinessCode.jpg">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/28AHAReadinessCode.jpg">

<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/28ATQReadinessCode.jpg">

pac1085

Made by Autoleads, they are not sold in the USA. Part number is SAK-1104. The vendor of choice used to be "nexxia.co.uk" however they have been out of stock for a long time now. The other online vendors in the UK that sell them don't ship to the USA. However, they can be purchased on ebay.co.uk for around $33 shipped to the USA.

Jeff Weimer

Latest oil quality Standards list (Jan 2008) direct from Audi.<ul><li><a href="http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0023.File.pdf">http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0023.File.pdf</a</li></ul>

pipebender

<ul><li><a href="http://PartsQuick.com">PartsQuick.com</a></li></ul>