Russell2686

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Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2704809.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2704809.phtml</a</li></ul>

DarkLightning

Use the 4' included with the Hayden kit to run from the cooler all the way to the rear port on the power steering fluid reservoir.

Use 2' more purchased separately to join to the existing line leading to the steering rack. I did not have time to replace the entire line from the cooler to the rack but I'd think 6-8' of hose would be sufficient. 8' will make it for sure, 6' probably.

Mr. White

this was a tech i wrote some time ago that helped those who wanted to fix their rattling sunroof by repairing the likely broken rail guides. Hope it is able to help you. Good luck.<ul><li><a href="http://davidt7.home.comcast.net/docs/audi_sunroof.pdf">sunroof guide rail repair write up</a></li></ul>

DarkLightning

http://www.johnggauthier.com/audi/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=mirrors

Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2708418.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2708418.phtml</a</li></ul>

Neo1130

For D

chenisheda

Pain in the *** to find. This is the work from the better part of 3 hours.
http://www.fredbakerporscheaudi.com/parts_detail.asp?id=56

Neo1130

Have your windows not acting like they should be? Do they roll down fine, but just won't roll up or roll up slowly and then shoot back down? The reason it does this is because one of the clips probably broke off on your window regulator that keeps it straight in the tracks. When the window gets crooked and you try to roll it up, the window motor senses an obstruction and rolls back down... This is a safety feature so no one gets and arm or finger bruised... Not like a window will chop your arm off or anything. I noticed there were no real write-ups concerning this matter so I decided to make one since this will probably become a more and more common problem among the B5's as they are aging. Also, I am not responsible for any damages that may come about by carelessness or improper tool useage or improper installation. Or anything else for that matter. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!

THIS WRITE-UP IS FOR THE FRONT REGULATORS ONLY, HOWEVER THE REAR SHOULD NOT BE VERY MUCH DIFFERENT.

First lets start off with what you will need to accomplish this task. Below I have listed the part numbers for the regulators according to front, back and what side they are. Also you will need 6 rivets for this install...

PARTS NEEDED

Driver side front regulator - 8D0 837 461
Passenger side front regulator - 8D0 837 462
Rivets for front - N 906 924 01 (X6)

Driver side rear regulator - 8D0 839 461
Passenger side rear regulator - 8D0 839 462
Rivets for rear - N 904 786 01 (X4)

Now, let us start off with the tools needed

TOOLS NEEDED

Somewhere soft to work so you don't scratch your parts
Philips #2 screwdriver
Riveter with 3/16" or 5mm or 6mm capabilities (cannot remember metric size)
3/8" ratchet with optional 4" extension
T-30 torx bit
T-45 torx bit
Power drill
1/4" drill bit

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/toolsneeded.jpg">

Step #1 - Door panel removal

If at all possible, roll the window all the way down. Then we first need to remove the door panel. All you need for this is the philips screwdriver. Remove the three screws shown here by red arrows. The one in the door panel has the threads facing the rear. Once you have that screw out, go ahead and remove the cover by sliding it downwards.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/doorpanel.jpg">

Now behind the small cover is two more screws that you have to remove. Once these are removed, you can pull straight up on the door panel but do NOT remove the panel yet, there are still wires and the door opening cable to remove.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/doorpanel2.jpg">

Remove the white cable FIRST to give you more room to unhook the cables. To remove the cable, pull it towards the outside of the door and then there is a hook that you have to jimmy around to get it out of the eye hole. Then proceed to the removal of cables.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/wires.jpg">

Now you can completely remove the door panel and set it aside somewhere.

Step #2 - Door frame assembly removal

Next we remove the door frame assembly. We do this by removing the four T-45 bolts on the front and rear of the door. (Also note: At this point you should also remove the foam pad with the red box around it and disconnect the wire bundle for the mirror. Also at this point, remove and cable bundles from the frame and lay them inside of the door at the bottom out of the way for when you remove the frame. As you are lifting the frame out, be careful not to snag the white door opening cable and also be cautious of the lock pin. Also, not shown in the picture is the cable bundle you must remove from the window motor.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/framebolts.jpg">
<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/framebolts2.jpg">

Also if you want to make the car a little quieter, you could add some more sound deadening materials to the inside right here... Mine actually fell off causing more road noise than I liked... Just stuck new glue on it and re attached it.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/soundmaterial.jpg">

Step #3 - Glass removal

This step is the reason you should have rolled down your window all the way. It will make it a bit easier to get your glass out. But to remove the glass, all you need to do is remove the two T-30 bolts holding the clamps together. After the bolts are removed and the clamps are loosened, rotate the front of the glass downwards and then lift the glass from the assembly. CAREFULLY set the glass somewhere soft and where it won't fall and break. Also use caution when removing, not to scratch any tint if you have it.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/glass.jpg">

Step #4 - Motor removal

Lift up the assembly and go to the other side. Remove the three T-30 bolts holding the motor in place and pull straight out.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/motor.jpg">

Step #5 - Regulator removal

This is probably the hardest part of the whole procedure. Removing the damn rivets. I accidentally drilled into my knee cartilidge because I was being stupid. Wasn't deep though and luckily didn't need any medical attention. But a tip or two. Start out slow and at an angle. Some of the rivets kinda have the center pointing up so you cannot get a good bite to drill it out. That is why you start at the side and once you get going, straighten out. A 1/4" bit should be good for this. Try not to use any smaller because the head of the rivet will stay intact and you will have to pry it off possibly causing damage to the frame.

<img src="http://members.***.net/baldwin4/Regulator/rivets.jpg">

Once you have the rivets removed, remove the regulator and install the new one in place. Install the new rivets with the pins facing what would be the outside of the car. The rivets are fairly big so unless you ********** quite a bit, you may have some trouble getting the rivets to compress and break off.

Installation is reverse of removal. If anyone has any quesitons, don't hesitate to e-mail me @ Baldwin4@***.net.

Neo1130

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