rmccomiskie

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Please delete your <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/97366.phtml">post</a> here in the 100/A6 FAQ and repost it in the <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/">100/A6 Forum</a>. I will respond there.

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Thanks.

scoop713

My problem ended up being the switch itself. I was able to dissassemble it completely, clean the copper slides/pads, reassemble, and everything works. Looking at the wiring diagram, several of the paths didn't work when examined with a multimeter.

Dissassemble the cruise control switch as follows:
1. Remove the switch together with the wiper switch from the car. See other articles.
2. Remove screw to part it from the wiper side switch.
3. Unscrew two tiny screws holding the male 6 pin terminal to the main section of the switch. This will allow you to feed the wire taped wires up into the stock to service the internals. You don't need to cut or otherwise disturb the wires, just slightly feed them into the stock.

4. Very gently pry apart the two end covers off of the cruise switch. Take your time. Be careful. Doesn't take alot of force. The switch parts along the line you see half way between the two halves on the very end only. I started just above the headlight image shown on the switch using a thin screwdriver. Sorry for no photos. Send me a message if you want more information.

5. Be very careful. Work over a white sheet. 3 springs, and a few other small parts are in it, which can easily be lost.

6. After separating both 1/2 covers from the end of the stock, drop out the little cylindrical pin. Gently push the detent, and slide the white internals out of the stock while feeding the wire in to give you slack. Watch for the spring that will pop.

7. Pull off the set end (pry two sides). Springs again. Slide it out.

8. Push the detent on the circuit board, and slide it out. This will enable you to separate the white slide from the white slide holder. Sorry for the low detail. It's fairly obvious. You'll then see the part with oxidation you need to clean. It's the circuit board covered with several separate copper tabs. Clean them with emery cloth. I coated them with a light grease to prevent immediate re-oxidation, and reassembled.

9. Test to ensure function.

Turn on cruise switch. 4 to 5 continuity.
Turn off cruise switch. 4 to 5 open.

1-6 continuity

1-6 open with interupt switch position (slightly toward off, but not to off)

5-2 continuity with resume

5-3 contuity with set

scoop713

I've got a couple of very small additions to your article if you'd like to add them. I am sure you already know, but the next reader may not.

I found for Brake Switch test 1a and 1b &amp; all of the vaccuum pump tests the ignition needs to be on.

Wagonfan

I have a 97 Avant Quattro Wagon. I'm wondering if there is a "Reset Period" to wait if you screw up programming the remotes. I put one key in the ignition and turned to on position. Then the other in the driver's door and manually locked it. Then I pressed unlock once, waited 6 seconds and pressed again. I then removed both keys and the remote worked. When programming the second, I repeated the procedure, but pressed unlock 2x about 1 second apart, then again 6 seconds later. That one didn't work although it did cause the Hazards to blink momentarily like it should. At some point I inadvertently erased them both by pressing unlock too many times I believe...... wasn't able to successfully program after several attempts after that. Any ideas or am I even doing this correctly?

carmatt59

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to add that you can actually achieve the same "mod" for the rear, provided you replace the rear units with front ones.

The front ones actually have the 3 settings: ON; OFF; DOOR.
The back lights have only ON and OFF. If you replace them with front-type ones you can leave the switch in the "DOOR" position and you'll have all of the 4 lights above the doors coming on when opening a door. The wiring is identical with the one for the front lights.

austinado16

..

RedDragoN750

Follow the FAQ about removing the hatch trim. Find the lock cylinder, opposite where you put your key. GENTLY disconnect the white plastic retaining clip on the metal rod closest to the bottom of the hatch and slide the rod out of the cylinder. Follow the rod back to the white plastic actuator. The actuator is held on by two screws, remove them. As you look up, gently slide the actuator to your left and disconnect the green airline by pinching with pliers and prying with a flathead screwdriver.

Now you have the actuator in your hand. Start by plugging the hole that was not connected to the air line and forcing the metal rod with your hand in and/or out. If you feel or hear an air leak through the body of the actuator you may have just found your problem. My solution was to take two heavy duty zip ties and tighten them down with needle nose pliers around the body of the actuator. While you're at it, you will probably want to replace the o-ring that you find at the end of the green air line inside the white connector.

Having done this, reconnect the air line. Do not reattach the actuator yet, and hit the power lock button. If the whistling stopped, you've fixed the problem, have a beer, high-five someone, and reattach everything.

NewAudiDude420

102 thousands miles 94 audi 100s front wheel automatic transmosssion with no problems up untill a few weeks ago, reverse wont work at all now, but did work yesterday after about a 10 day spree. the indicator on thr dash is not in sync with the actual gear shifter postion, im thinking it computer. but hopefull te is a easy way to fix this.

PLEASE HELP

rmccomiskie

The 100/A6 FAQ is here.

ricoblanco

*bump*