Solid20vq

Hello everyone,

As the weather is getting warmer, my car is stalling again upon returning to idle.

Having this problem last year I have eliminated the following culprits: No vacuum leaks, proper fuel pressure (adjustable FPR replaced last fall), the ISV should be in good working order (it's relatively new/used), new injectors, and a new o-ring on the throttle body adjuster.

I believe the Hall Sensor is probably faulty; how might one diagnose a faulty Hall Sensor? Is there any way around replacing the whole distributor?

If not, does anyone have one for sale?
Can I get mine rebuilt?

Thanks,
Solid

Solid20vq

Found the connector for the hall sensor flapping around the top of the distributor, so I JB'ed that b into place; it looks like one or more of the wires may have been grounding out on the distributor body.

Hope this does something. Will let everyone know tomorrow

Solid20vq

No dice:

So my stalling issue happens when the car is warm, the temperature is 65*f or greater, and upon returning to idle. If I tap the throttle just before it drops below 1200rpm, it will drop to about 400-500 and recover usually, but this is tricky to do every time I am coming to a stop.

Don't know if it's relevant, but perhaps the problem worsens when I drive in the next town, which is 400ft higher in elevation. I bought an O-Ring kit today and I am going to replace the seals on my injectors. There's also a metal vacuum line running underneath, and connecting to the throttle body, which has a somewhat loose rubber elbow/connector. Going to try and seal that up.

In a previous post, someone mentioned the crankcase position sensor; which is tested by pouring cold water on it while the car is warm. If anyone could provide literature as to the location of this sensor, I would appreciate it. I have a hunch of which one it may be, and will employ this test as well.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, I'm going to try a few things and will update soon.

Thanks,
Solid

x19

Hi, did you test the operation of 02 sensor with back probe? If you could find the swinging like 0.2 ~0.8v on DVM all the time which means the fuel mixture is all wright. If you see the voltage lower than 0.5v at idling and stays, this means you have a vacuum leak at the some place like hose connection etc. x19

squidix9

If the crank sensor was bad, you wouldn't be able to restart it. It's only checked POS. As mentioned check the O2 voltage, better with a scope than a DVM. Many are damped so much you won't see anything significant. Hook up a vacuum gauge too. It should be stable in the area of 17 mm (many diy gauges have a "range" on the face). If when it gets hot and stalls, I am betting you'll see the vacuum drop to near zero indicating a hot leak.