onlyaudis

So factory spec was 3 degrees on the timing, and you bump it up to 12 or so? any tricks or is it just hooking up a light and turning the distributor?

Thanks for the tip on the Rustoleum's Sunrise Red. I am a car restorer/ painter and happen to have Spies Hecker Tornado red base coat at the shop. I painted the one side skirt yesterday and the match was perfect. Even though I have a full spray set up, I often still use a close match rattle can for hard to reach areas in the engine compartment, trunk, under the dash , etc.

Made some progress today. Found a driver's power mirror and tail light. Had to pay more than I wanted to for the tail light, but the early ones are not easy to find at all.

Fixed some electrical issues The right tail light wasn't grounded right, and I took care of that. I removed the fuel sender (it was really stuck on there) jumped the wires and the gauge went to full so I knew the gauge was OK. took it apart, cleaned the contacts, and now it works again. shined a flashlight into the tank, and it looked good.

pressure washed 28 years of stuff off the tranny and dif. Funny thing is, I am at the point where for every thing I find and fix, seems like I find 2 more things that aren't quite right. need to put a new power antenna in, and to trouble shoot the dif lock that is not engaging or lighting up. do you have a link by chance that shows how that system is put together? I have a feeling a vacuum line is not hooked up.

lots of other basic maintenance to do-air and fuel filters, change tranny and dif fluid (what do you recommend--redline, or should I stay away from snthetics on an 84?)

reverse lights are not working, my guess is the switch or wiring.

had the car up on tall stands today, and i mostly liked what I saw underneath. Exhaust is intact (2 inch pipes-is that stock?)need some muffler hangers. no rust, good CV boots, no bad oil leaks, no scary bushings. just some bad brake hoses I was planning on replacing anyway. sway bar bushings do look pretty old.

I like to try and get a bunch of things done the first few weeks I get an older car, to keep the momentum going when the enthusiasm is high. I never really stop fooling with them though--for some reason I just like fixing things on col old cars

I am leaning towards white on the wheels. I had a Fiat 128 Rally when I was younger, and had white Cromadoras on that car.

Rogviler

Here's the full rundown on advancing the timing, plus a few other things:

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/timing.htm

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/timing2.htm

First step is to paint the mark on the flywheel as it will be impossible otherwise. You'll understand when you get into it...

People run Red Line a lot, so that's a good bet.

I don't have a differential vacuum diagram scanned, but can probably do that tomorrow sometime. They sometimes take a bit to engage, so give it a few tries. Also, the rear differential is set to disengage after a certain speed or amount of time I believe. They intended for it to get you unstuck but not run while driving. Thus it's pretty touchy.

It could just be a little sticky from not being used too. It's pretty easy to get up in there and fix whatever you need though. Usually if something goes bad it's the actuator at the differential itself. I vaguely recall a fix involving a Mercedes door lock actuator, as the Audi part is NLA. If that's what the problem is I'll dig up the link.

-Rog

onlyaudis

My Audi tuner told me they almost never have run into dif lock problems on these cars that involved the internals of the difs. I know where I can get known working used tested actuators for a good price if I need them. i still think the vacuum lines to the system make be disconnected/ripped, but need to get it on a lift to check it out.

Talked to a guy at Germanautoparts.com today and he told me he liked the new generation KYB's on the older VW's and Audis. he said they were very similar to the old Boge turbo gas shocks and that he couldn't really tell the difference. he thinks they may have actually copied the boge turbo internals on them in the Audi fitments.

thanks for the links.

Rogviler

Oh yeah, the internals are as tough as they come. Hopefully everything wrong with the car is easy. Always nice when that happens.

-Rog

onlyaudis

well I decided to spend a few more bucks and get the Koni struts instead of the KYB's. got a good deal on them from the Tire rack. One of the main appeals to me of these cars is the handling / ride quality, and this way I have a way to tune the suspension to my liking. I know I would regret skimping on the struts later on. Looks like a bit of a pain to put them on as well. what a massive and deeply attached strut assembly both front and rear.

Is there performance alignment specs for these cars somewhere?

Is the K&N filter a noticeable improvement over a clean stock one?

I decided to paint the wheels a really nice silver--actually is the new bright silver on the current audis. I did a really professional job on them--had the old tires taken off, put them in my bead blast cabinet, epoxy 2 part primer, real car paint base coat, and a semi gloss 2 part clear. I will post a few photos. The white was a bit too boy racer, and would be hard to keep nice as well. They were just rattle canned white, and it was barley sticking. guy spayed some ugly yellow paint all over the brake calipers too--he should have put some brake pads on instead.

westco4K

Beautiful car! I thought mine was in decent shape for its age but that one's show worthy out of the box it sat in for 6 years. Great find.

onlyaudis

Thanks for the comments about the car. It really is in a great place to start from to make it into a stunner. I have been busy doing an extensive brake overhaul on the car right now. My god were the inside of the rear calipers gross. no wonder the brakes were so bad- the rear hoses were nearly clogged at the fittings. 3 of 4 the bleeders were clogged, so there was no way they were bled correctly by the PO. It had a soft pedal when I bought it.

I thought since I was redoing everything, I'd spend a little time to make the old calipers, holders and backing plates show quality. lots of cleaning and bead blasting and detail painting. those old Girling calipers are nice looking pieces when they are cleaned up.

Decided to go silver on the wheels for a more classic look. after the old tires were removed, I bead blasted the wheels and machined down a few edge scratches with my sander. That is the Audi silver from my Wife's TT. went with a low gloss urethane clear for a softer luster, but still with proper protection from the elements / ease of cleaning. In person they look like brand new wheels.

onlyaudis

So the brakes are back together and look great, but I still have no pedal. looks like the master cylinder is bad as well. the PO told me it had been replaced "recently", but I bet it is has been years and the seals are gone in it from sitting. trying to hunt one down in the next few days.

onlyaudis

my Audi shop has ordered me in an Ate master Cylinder and a Bendix proportioning valve. prices were not too horrible. Hopefully i will have amazing brakes when I finish redoing almost the entire brake system.

onlyaudis

note to self, always use the VIN number when ordering parts. they sent me the wrong year M/C today. so i still have no brakes. can be frustrating working on older cars, but if it was easy, everyone would do it, right?