Mr. Z

Here is the story so far...

Got the car (1997 A8 4.2 quattro w/99K mi.) just before Christmas. Buyer's inspection showed nothing major to worry about. Test drove fine. Did timing belt, water pump, etc. as precaution. Drove a little funny between 40 and 60 mph -- especially in the rain. Local shop replaced (faulty) purge control valve, but didn't help.

About a month ago, I was 90 miles from home when the car just died at idle in a parking lot. Flatbedded to a shop in the area (aka "Shop A") that was SUPPOSED to know German cars. Ask them to check fuel pump relay, but they swear the pump is bad. Supposedly, they "bench test" old pump. They say car runs when tested with propane. They monkey with it for a number of days and give up -- swear the new pump (OEM Audi from local dealer) is bad. Then again, I later hear they spent 20 minutes trying to find the battery. Owner apparently puts in place new rule -- "we don't work on Audi."

Anyway... Shop A calls and says they'll flatbed it all the way to my local shop. They put old pump (not connected) into tank to prevent gas smell from filling car, but clip/damage part of it, making it un-testable. They leave new pump in box in trunk and wash their hands of it all. Only request is that I talk to them about compensation when all is said and done because new pump costs $600. So far, I've given them $0.

So... My local shop installs the pump and car starts, but runs poorly -- suposedly goes into limp mode. They say their shop diagnostics show bad ECU. Local AW'er (thanks, Troy!) comes over and we VAG-COM at shop. Yes, there is a P1612 code (among others). Car cranks, but will not start. Just for fun, I code trans to 00012.

I send ECU back East for repair. At first, I'm told that it tests fine. They overnight the package on Friday -- to themselves. They are supposed to re-send on Monday, but fail to get to UPS in time. I finally got it back last Wednesday and it looked (on the outside) like nothing had been done to it. There is a little slip of paper included that talks about "Dealer Only" recoding in case of P1612 code (even though I included a note when I sent it that says the coding appears proper).

When my local shop installed it, the trans coding was STILL 00012! If you say you replaced "a processor and two diodes," one would imagine that the firmware/software would be reset to factory specs, too. Right?

Car still doesn't want to start, but they say the plugs are "fouled as hell." At my request, they also check TPS that Shop A said had "obvious short." TPS shows no short, but is "way out of range." They replace plugs and TPS and car starts, but runs very, very rich. Now it is back to not starting again.

ANY thoughts???? HELP!

dimitristx

You don't have to pay the dealer for service if it's outrageous to do, but often times (unles you have a trusted mechanic standing by, which from the description of your ordeal so far, you don't) it's the best approach to me. They're trained (most properly, at least), have the equipment, and regardless of what the feelings are on the forum, they ought to be the best source of figuring things out (all other things being equal).

roughyear

spend the $99bucks for a dealer "diagnostic" .... it's cheaper than a 2day car rental

Mr. Z

Considering that they SHOULD have the same diagnostic equipment, would a VW dealer do? The nearest Audi dealer is a 35 minute ferry ride + another 15+ minute drive. I believe their shop is only open on weekdays, too. If they can't do it "while I wait," it is a major hassle to leave the car, rent a replacement, etc. At least with the (closer) VW dealer, I don't have to hassle with a ferry.

TerminA8r

Good luck!<ul><li><a href="http://larsonporscheaudi.com/">Robert Larson's</a></li></ul>

Mr. Z

The car originally died in Olympia and the indy repair shop actually bought the pump from Larson (and wanted to mark it up even more!). I probably should have had them tow from Olympia to Larson, but my local guys here on Bainbridge are usually pretty good (,always friendly and very reasonably priced). Larson is an hour+ away.

The key is that getting it somewhere means it has to run well enough to even limp there. Right now, it is having a hard time starting and/or running for any length of time. And towing will cost a MINT.

I'm really hoping to get some "have you/they checked the ____" types of suggestions. My local shop at least isn't so arrogant that they'll ignore input.

Always Overcharged

Mine was faulty and caused the car tio run too rich
Replaced and all fine

Always Overcharged

and in particular rich

Mr. Z

is that they say the only codes showing are for the purge control valve, but that it was somehow mistakenly disconnected. I presume that code went away afterward.

HOWEVER, wouldn't the system running rich kick codes on its own???

Mr. Z

or if it went bad, would that cause a non-start problem? Do you have any idea what kinds of things might cause a new one to go bad??