grgcombs

OneEyedJack: Yep, my thoughts exactly. As for the fuel lines, I didn't run into difficulties with those since I had disconnected them prior to removing the valve cover. The manual said there'd be pressure with fuel spray (so put out the flare illuminating my driveway, I guess) but I didn't have issues with that. I did wrap up those lines in shop towels and duct tape immediately, just in case. To keep the loose ends from flopping back into the engine bay (in the way of the cams), I just looped a string around the taped up shop towels and hoses, over the fender, and then tied it down to the wheel hub ... I didn't put too much pressure on the lines, just enough to keep them bent out of the way.

As for taking the cams out, I used grease pencil marks on the chain and sprockets to keep track of where it was ... good thinking too (as others had suggested), because while trying to worm the chain adjuster out of the cams and chain on the workbench, the chain popped off one of the cams ... the paint saved me, so I knew where to put it back on.

One other thing, which I don't know how many folks this would affect ... I completely disconnected the radiator from the car, to have uninhibited access to the engine and timing belt area. I had to disconnect the transmission cooler lines to remove it entirely, and I wrapped the lines up in a shop towel and taped them up. This was insufficient. I would up losing a *significant* amount of transmission fluid (3 quarts), seeping through the shop towel ... I didn't know how much I'd lost, I foolishly estimated about a cup or so. The manual says wrap the disconnected lines in a shop towel ... obviously this is incorrect when used for an extended period of time. If I were to do it over again, (and I tried this after the fact, to see how it worked), I'd clip a "finger" off of a nitrile glove and slip it on the transmission cooler line like a condom, taping up very well.

One thing I did not do, because I couldn't get the crankshaft locking pin in place, was the front crankshaft seal. I don't know if I'll regret that or not.

I believe I found out why my oil leaks were so severe and sudden. Some of you may recall an Audi recall, to remove a grommet in the firewall plenum, underneath the battery tray. This was inadvertently catching leafs and other environmental garbage, which inadvertently caused the plenum to flood with heavy rains (or a car wash) because of insufficient drainage. Well, this happened to me, before the recall announcement. Water flooded the plenum, which seeped into the brake booster ... then the brake booster vacuum pump sucked down that water and fried it's own guts out. No warning lights, nothing. I happily drove on, not knowing the issue. This, in turn, became a much larger problem because at least on the 2.7T, the brake booster vacuum pump subsidizes the crankcase ventilation system ... with that vacuum pump gone, you've got insufficient ventilation of the crankcase, which leads to seal failure.

vtraudt

Ordered the complete kit from Blaupart. Their instructions STINK.
Used this one.
When using the Blaupart tensioner tool, the flimsy plastic POS broke before even tightening (and the chain was sitting SOLID).

I can't find the old tool from the last job.

Any other way to change the cam chain seal?

The Blaupart instruction also don't mention anything about keeping the timing locked, but do remove the cam sprocket (timing belt).

gggdds

My tool broke too, but I didn't get it from Blauparts. I used instructions from here on the forum, and it seemed to work pretty well. I don't remember the details (I did the job in 2010)---so, I read my notes...you should be able to find those notes here on the forum somewhere...I noted I got my tensioner tool from Zdmack, and he did replace it for free...you have to compress the tensioner slowly, as it is hydraulic. Remember the order: tear down for the timing belt first, then do the tensioners, then go back and finish the TB...
Guy



Ordered the complete kit from Blaupart. Their instructions STINK.
Used this one.
When using the Blaupart tensioner tool, the flimsy plastic POS broke before even tightening (and the chain was sitting SOLID).

I can't find the old tool from the last job.

Any other way to change the cam chain seal?

The Blaupart instruction also don't mention anything about keeping the timing locked, but do remove the cam sprocket (timing belt).[/QUOTE]

vtraudt

[/QUOTE]

I only want to change the cam, cam tensioner, rear plugs, valve cover gaskets.

I had hoped i don't have to remove the front end of the car?
How do I maintain timing? I am used to use the cam lock tool, but with the cam timing belt sprocket removed to get to the cam seal and tensioner, i don't know how to maintain proper timing?

Its a 2.8 V6 5V

4Driver4

I only want to change the cam, cam tensioner, rear plugs, valve cover gaskets.

[/QUOTE]

You'll need to remove the belt and sprockets to get to the cam seals on the front (3).

As for maintaining timing, just eyeball it and keep it close when the belt if off, then true it up with the tool for re-assembly.

Mikea20

Is there a reason the images for this diy won't display?

Thanks,

Mike

Mikea20

Is there a reason the pics from this diy can't be viewed?

georgeb944

It may have something to do with the fact that this thread is eight years old.

The original post is preserved as a tech article, including the pictures:

AudiWorld Tech Articles

jkapano

Is no one setting the motor to TDC before they start this?

It seems like everyone is marking the chain with the camshaft to set the camshaft back in its appropriate place. I'm wondering if you loosen the cam tensioner. and the chain is loose and the camshaft rotates from a position where the valve is being pushed down how and the hell would you get the camshaft back to that position. You would have to compress the valves. Or does the camshaft not rotate because the other lobes are in a more neutral position?

CRuby

I think you'll aways have some cam lobes fighting with lifters whether you're at TDC or not, because not every cylinder has closed valves. But, I'm all for putting engine @ TDC just to have notches on each cam aligned with bearing cap arrows. I think you can do it w/o engine @ TDC, but why make life more difficult. I'm a belt & suspenders type of guy, so I would also mark the chain relative to the cam sprocket too.