ThaboTheWuff

So I have found the source of noise in my steering wheel - pity as it looks like a single control arm that is worn - wonder if I can just replace that? Was also wondering if the tire rods are worn too but looks like the worn control arm is causing the noise when the wheel is mover horizontally.

ThaboTheWuff

This is the bugger I believe!

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....3%2DC&cat=1760

2001 S8

Nice video. I have the same issue with my driver's side upper rearmost position control arm. I am planning on replacing both driver's and passenger's upper rearmost position control arms. But I am having my mechanic do the work and will have him check the condition of the other control arms. Based off his findings I will make the call on whether I replace anything else.

Good luck.

ThaboTheWuff

Yeah, this stuff, well at least the control arm stuff is not rocket science. I think this control arm will be easy to replace from the looks of it.

I am babying my A8 along and trying to squeeze the last amount of life out of her before I get rid of her so the blauparts kit would be a no brainer if I was going to keep her. This is nice info for my next A8 purchase! Now to figure out the power steering hiss at 12 o clock when the car has been sitting for a day or so. Steering rack = $$$$$$$ and a PITA to replace from what I've heard.

twentysevenlitres

Upper control arms require removal of the shock absorber mounting plate and shock absorber to replace, which means you need to note their angle at rest before disassembly to ensure they're not preloaded when reassembled.
Other than that they are reasonably straight forward.

If keeping, I'd replace at least both top arms, if not all 4.
If selling, replacing only what is worn makes sense. Give the next owner a safe car, but there's no need to do work which won't add value.

ThaboTheWuff

****e I was under the impression that it was a simple bolt on and off job and now i order the part too ........
Don't really know what you mean about the preload ....

I also have a upper right rear control arm this is so worn you can see through it but even so, the car drive surprisingly well. The problem with the rear control arm is you gotta remove the spring and I could never figure out what everyone was talking about here on the forums on how to remove it. Audi says you need their special million dollar spring compressor.

I really need a Bently manual but no paper copy was ever made and it designed to only work on winode XP or something right I guess I could fine an old PC somewhere around my office just to run it.

S8ilver

http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rmreplace.html

There's a nice diagram in there that shows the measurement required to avoid preloading.

twentysevenlitres

You can install XP mode on Windows 7 and 8 which works quite well with the Bentley eBahn reader (its basically a complete version of XP installed concurrently)
The XP emulator on Vista works with varying degrees of success as I understand it.

Why Bentley doesn't offer a Win Vista/7/8 compatible eBahn reader to existing owners of its manuals is a bit silly in 2014...

ThaboTheWuff

Ok I assume the A6 replacement is similar ? He does not preload, tightens when back on the car? Perhaps that is an A6 only trick.


Think I can do that!

silverd2

It would be quicker to list the things this gorilla did correctly than what he did wrong...WOW...DO NOT TRY THAT AT HOME!!!

This is the guy (typical of dealer or "German specialist") that makes you wonder what went wrong a few miles down the road...."But I took to an expert"...

Although I've used similar (but gentle) cheats (chisel or flathead screwdriver to open pinch bolt fitting to remove control arm ball joints from knuckle), this guy will break steering knuckles and swear to the customer that he found it this way..."your broken knuckle was the whole problem to begin with"...

I could go on and on...he's a hack!! He needed to preload the control arms and did not...the customer will pay down the road and the car will not handle as designed. Bentley does not show one single step the same as what the idiot in the video did. Why not simply clean the pinch bolt and knuckle rather than hammering joints and bolt back into place?!

I have not changed front control arms on a D2, so not sure of subtle differences, but don't think it's much different, anymore than much difference with the procedure on a Passat.

ALWAYS PRELOAD...or your bushings will rip in short order.

I've done the pre-load 2 different ways (which both worked) on past VW's:

- Once the strut is out, I've only replace one upper arm at a time and use the one still in place as an angle measure to torque down the new one...THEN replace the other and match the angle..pre-load achieved...it's all about the correct angle, not actual load...the load (or lack of actually) comes from proper angle and weight of the car. Older Bentley's showed setting the angle like this by precisely setting angle only.

-Have also done the jack under the control arm method, like AudiPages...but this is not as accurate as some other methods...the leverage point does not put quite as much load on the suspension as farther out the leverage scale, where the wheel does it.

-I have also changed only the upper inner arm on a Passat without even removing the strut (both ends of bolt were accessible)...just popped out both ball joints from the knuckle and torqued the new to match the old angle...reassemble.