tipomac

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pocketchange

I would be cautious with surfacing the heads unless they need it.

As for the valves etc., it wouldn't hurt if you are confident they are needing help.

One of the main reasons the 4.2L has been in production all these years isn't because they need the attention typically required by SOB of power plant.

I'm guessing that simply cleaning up and screwing it back together would give you as much satisfaction as (at your option) spending whatever your pocketbook can handle.

With the miles you indicated, replacing all the bells and whistles would give better peace of mind than putting the funds into machine work that is most likely not needed.

Let us know how things turn out. pc

tipomac

Thank you for the reply!

Unfortunately those replacement heads with 130k in them were not grade A at all as their website was claiming. I gave the chop shop a call - as they were about to ship the heads to me - and asked them to double check if there is any problem with them. Lucky they did not ship them to me and also gave me an instant full refund as those heads both have bent valves.

So now I am looking to get new valves, but Audi is ridiculously expensive as they ask $90 for ONE(!) valve. Intake valve 077109601K is $90 and exhaust valve 077109611D is also $90. This is the worst joke ever, but its not a joke. There is another company I was able to find who sells the intake valves for about $16 each, but they don’t have exhaust valves. In fact I was not able to find exhaust valves anywhere.

Now there are two more replacement heads that are guaranteed to be in good conditions from another company with about 190K in them. Price is about $180 each, so not too bad.

But now I am again at a dilemma. Should I get those replacement heads and clean them including all the valves and maybe replace only the stem seals end at the end install them onto the engine? Or should I take out the valves from them and replace all the bent valves in my present cylinder heads, clean them and install them back onto the engine?

Honestly I would rather replace all the valves with brand new sets, but if I can’t find them for a good price I think it might be out of the question.

TerminA8r

Just some food for thought. You can buy a low mileage engine for under $1000.

twentysevenlitres

HC Sale can sell you genuine exhaust valves for €33 (US$45) each (intake same).

If the ones on the new head are good, just renew the valve stem seals, and while the heads are off, replace the cam tensioners if its in your budget ($350ish each from dealer, or $250ish each from Ebay).

tipomac

I have been thinking about to buy a used engine and simply just take the parts I need from it, but my problem is that I don’t have much space in my garage and this garage is facing to a public property so I cannot even place the engine there.
Well maybe it is possible.

I have been also thinking about to replace the engine all together. However to replace an engine I would need to take out the original one with the transmission attached and separate them outside of the car attach the new used engine to the transmission and install the whole unit back into the car while the car is jacked up to a hight of less than 1 foot.
Is it possible to replace the engine without taking it out with the transmission attached to it?

audinutt

amazon shows them for $20

tipomac

Yes, I almost ordered them since their price is definitely some of the bests out there. However the specs of their valves are European specs and do not match the US specs.

Their exhaust valve (factory part number: 051109611B) sizes are: Length: 98mm; Valve Head Diam: 27mm; Valve Stem Diam: 7mm; Valve Seat Angle: 45 degrees

while the exhaust valve that is in the US issued 1999 Audi A8 D2 ABZ (factory part number: 077109611D) is Length: 97mm; Valve Head Diam: 27mm; Valve Stem Diam: 6mm; Valve Seat Angle: 45 degrees

So here the US valve stem diameter is 6mm while theirs is 7mm. Also US length is 97mm while theirs is 98mm


with the intake valves, theirs (factory part number: 051109601B) Length: 95.5mm; Valve Head Diam: 32mm; Valve Stem Diam: 7mm; Valve Seat Angle: 45 degrees

while the US is (factory part number: 077109601K) Length: 94.75mm; Valve Head Diam: 32.75mm; Valve Stem Diam: 6mm; Valve Seat Angle: 45 degrees

So here length EU/US = 95.5mm/94.75mm, Valve head diameter 32mm/32.75mm and valve stem siam 7mm/6mm


Question is that are these small differences matter much. Would it be possible to install the Euro version with 7mm valve stem diameter and somewhat shorter length and a bit smaller intake head size?

tipomac

Thank you very much… Now these are more reasonable for sure… Price is still more than twice of rock auto, but still might be a better choice to spend an extra $150 to get new valves instead of getting a pair of used heads. Although used valves are usually just as good as brand new valves as they do not wear much as most of the wearing is taken up by the valve guides and the stem seals if I am correct.

tipomac

So, finally after enormous search effort I have found the intake valves for a reasonable price in England. I needed to replace 12 intake valves, reseated them with the rest of the valves after cleaning them with the heads. I also replaced the front crank case cover flange. Then finally I did the timing belt by checking and rechecking the TDC many times. After everything is reassembled I start the engine. Doesn’t start for a while since the fuel rail dried out and needed to be refilled by the fuel pump.
Then after a few trials the engine starts, seems to be running rough then stalls. After restarting the engine runs smoother then slowly stalls. I tried again, engine starts instantly, runs even smoother and longer then slowly stalls. Like it is suffocating. When I give a push to the gas pedal immediately wants to stall and runs rough. Gas pedal push stalls the engine really fast!. I tried a few more startups and the more a tried the shorter the smooth runs became and faster it stalled.

Checked engine fault codes. No DTC codes, nothing!

What can possibly be the problem??? Timing issue? Or something with the vacuum system?
I need to add that I have found a mystery hex bolt that I really don’t know where does it go if anywhere at all or if it is important enough. Here is a link to the related post to this hex bolt problem with pictures: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2864396

Please help! I am now beginning to be a bit frustrated after I have done an immense amount of work on my ailing A8 D2 ABZ.

I appreciate any useful input on this! Thank you.

TipoMac