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Misfire cylinder 7

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Old 01-07-2014, 03:21 PM
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That injector (FSI) is even cheaper (<$100).
Old 01-07-2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Crisis3
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Have you done many injector swaps? Your description sound pretty simple, but it cost me near $800 at my Indy shop on my 07.
I never have but I'm pretty damn good at visually looking at stuff to see how it comes apart. Wow $800 is kinda steep. Like I said they're not too difficult to so and they're accessible to get to. I forgot since you have the 32V FSI your setup maybe a little more to it. I'm just going by the 40V engine. If you want to do the job, just take a few hrs out of your day to do it. Just take your time and go slow and you'll be fine. Just incase you might run into some problems have a spare car handy or steal your old lady's car for a day. Give it a shot.
Old 01-07-2014, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I have a missfire on 3 so I'm going to go the coil and Techron route before I panic.
Old 01-07-2014, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Crisis3
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Thanks for the feedback. I have a missfire on 3 so I'm going to go the coil and Techron route before I panic.
You're welcome. That's what we are on here for. Yea try the coil route first. I hope it works out very well for you. Before you do anything check with your dealer about the recall on the coil packs. You can call and give them your vin. If the recall hasn't been done yet, it won't cost you a thing to replace them.

Last edited by 2k6blacka8; 01-07-2014 at 04:08 PM.
Old 01-07-2014, 06:14 PM
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Default I think we are talking different animals here

2007 would be FSI, while I'm guessing OP's vehicle is probably an older port injection. But OP maybe could clarify.

From having to transfer all the injectors over to a new manifold on my C5 4.2 port injected motor, it wasn't that hard and sounds like the procedure described. The high pressure FSI set up might have some other steps or bleeding that could explain some of the price cited for the 2007.
Old 01-10-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 2k4blacka8
Ok that's not real high mileage. To remove the fuel rail there are 4 10mm bolts that holds it on the intake, disconnect all 8 connectors, and disconnect the fuel line on the rail and gently pull it up. Or you if you have enough room, you might not have to remove the fuel line connecting to it. The injectors should be held on by metal clips. Just simply swap the affected cylinder, and put motor oil on the o rings on the ones you're going to swap. Before you put the fuel rail back in, get some motor oil and coat all 8 o rings so it will make it easier to go back in and not have any leaks. Install everything reverse of removal and go from there. It's not a hard job to do. Hope this helps you.
Is relieving fuel pressure necessary for this procedure? I'm assuming it is but I could be wrong. As long as I have a reference I'm usually willing to attempt most repairs but I follow my gut when something might be beyond my ability/equipment. I'll definitely swap injectors before purchasing a new one.
Old 01-10-2014, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by a_alyte
Is relieving fuel pressure necessary for this procedure? I'm assuming it is but I could be wrong. As long as I have a reference I'm usually willing to attempt most repairs but I follow my gut when something might be beyond my ability/equipment. I'll definitely swap injectors before purchasing a new one.
Yes relieving fuel pressure is necessary with all fuel related work. Unless you don't mind a small fuel bath lol. Or just do it after letting the car sitting for a day but still pull the fuel pump fuse and starve it out of fuel just to be on the safe side. Hope it works out well for you.
Old 01-10-2014, 08:45 PM
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I just looked at the procedure on all data and I see removal of the manifold is necessary, this step seems more time consuming than I thought. Now I'm wondering if I can find the time to go through these steps, without rushing of course. I'm going to have to wait a while before attempting a fuel injector swap but until then I'll keep running a cleaner.
Old 01-10-2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by a_alyte
I just looked at the procedure on all data and I see removal of the manifold is necessary, this step seems more time consuming than I thought. Now I'm wondering if I can find the time to go through these steps, without rushing of course. I'm going to have to wait a while before attempting a fuel injector swap but until then I'll keep running a cleaner.
Well If you have the patience then give it a shot for a days worl. If not then leave it alone for a bit and try some good cleaner. Do you know what your short/long term fuel trims are on your scanner?? Sorry I couldn't help you much since I'm so used to the 40 valve 4.2.
Old 01-11-2014, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 2k4blacka8
Well If you have the patience then give it a shot for a days worl. If not then leave it alone for a bit and try some good cleaner. Do you know what your short/long term fuel trims are on your scanner?? Sorry I couldn't help you much since I'm so used to the 40 valve 4.2.
You've been a big help already, seriously. I haven't checked any fuel trims, vcds is still new to me outside of performing an autoscan and erasing dtc's.


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