Intake Manifold Linkage Arms - Unbreakable Replacements
06-12-2014, 12:50 AM
#71
AudiWorld Senior Member
broken arms are a symptom, NOT the real problem
The shafts that open/close paths inside the variable length intake runner are the problem. The shaft seizes up in the removavle front bearing surface. You should be able to turn teardrop shaped levers with little effort by hand. If not, the shafts are seized. When the vaccum pods pull against the seized shafts, the linkages eventually break. The return spring should be able to pull the teardrop shaped arm one way, while the vaccum pod pulls it the other. There was one guy who fixed his with a thin steel cable looped around the pivot nubs. Point is, if the shaft bearing surface is in good nick, a piece of string would work. My worry would be that fitting beefy arms to seized shafts would transfer the stress to the vaccum pods, causing them to fail. They ain't cheap either.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
06-12-2014, 01:25 PM
#72
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The shafts that open/close paths inside the variable length intake runner are the problem. The shaft seizes up in the removavle front bearing surface. You should be able to turn teardrop shaped levers with little effort by hand. If not, the shafts are seized. When the vaccum pods pull against the seized shafts, the linkages eventually break. The return spring should be able to pull the teardrop shaped arm one way, while the vaccum pod pulls it the other. There was one guy who fixed his with a thin steel cable looped around the pivot nubs. Point is, if the shaft bearing surface is in good nick, a piece of string would work. My worry would be that fitting beefy arms to seized shafts would transfer the stress to the vaccum pods, causing them to fail. They ain't cheap either.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
that explanation makes more sense than anything else that I may have read about this topic in different forums. I will check what you say first.
06-13-2014, 06:32 AM
#73
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The shafts that open/close paths inside the variable length intake runner are the problem. The shaft seizes up in the removavle front bearing surface. You should be able to turn teardrop shaped levers with little effort by hand. If not, the shafts are seized. When the vaccum pods pull against the seized shafts, the linkages eventually break. The return spring should be able to pull the teardrop shaped arm one way, while the vaccum pod pulls it the other. There was one guy who fixed his with a thin steel cable looped around the pivot nubs. Point is, if the shaft bearing surface is in good nick, a piece of string would work. My worry would be that fitting beefy arms to seized shafts would transfer the stress to the vaccum pods, causing them to fail. They ain't cheap either.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
Free up the shafts first, then the linkages you use doesn't matter.
Im in total agreement, right up until the last part. Fitting plastic link arms with zero warranty is silly when you can get the metal ones with lifetime warranty at 1/8 the price. Why on earth ...
The cleaning procedure is descirbed in great detail here --
http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/
Last edited by AudiNut87; 06-13-2014 at 06:34 AM.
06-13-2014, 08:49 AM
#74
AudiWorld Super User
The cleaning procedure is descirbed in great detail here --
http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/
...Gruven did ask (and receive) my permission before printing...I have yet to call in the favor, as my original plastic arms are still perfect at 133K miles.
Here's the original, unedited version >>
http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/44689.phtml
06-14-2014, 11:54 PM
#75
AudiWorld Senior Member
Im in total agreement, right up until the last part. Fitting plastic link arms with zero warranty is silly when you can get the metal ones with lifetime warranty at 1/8 the price. Why on earth ...
The cleaning procedure is descirbed in great detail here --
http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/
The cleaning procedure is descirbed in great detail here --
http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/
06-16-2014, 06:26 AM
#76
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You just dont want plastic arms in there period. I thought the metal arms would look odd but they are really nice looking, its how Audi should of done this to begin with. I will take a pic of mine and show you, but you cant really see them with the engine cover on anyways. You dont need to either, they wont break so you can be done with this.
Surprised that a few have gotten so many miles from the plastic ones, I guess its possible. Im happy I opted for the lifetime warranty ones from gruvenparts for $89/pair. Now Im on to other major issues with this car that dont seem to have a easy solution (like fact that my heater core is weeping)...
Surprised that a few have gotten so many miles from the plastic ones, I guess its possible. Im happy I opted for the lifetime warranty ones from gruvenparts for $89/pair. Now Im on to other major issues with this car that dont seem to have a easy solution (like fact that my heater core is weeping)...
Hello everyone,
I need someone to help me with the following:
My A6 has both intake manifold link arms broken, when I inquired about replacements, I was surprised with the price that dealer gave me.
I found several options in different forums and for me the best options are: “Gruven parts” and “SBD part # AVW1312” which are sold on Ebay.
Both offer a life-time warranty; Gruven parts are made of aluminum with Delrin insert, and AVW1312 are entirely made of Delrin and cost about 40% less, and they look much more similar to the OEM part, I like this because it allows my car to maintain the original appearance, rather than look like a "robocop" or "transformer".
Has anyone tested the SBD AVW1312 parts?
I would like some suggestions.
Thanks
I need someone to help me with the following:
My A6 has both intake manifold link arms broken, when I inquired about replacements, I was surprised with the price that dealer gave me.
I found several options in different forums and for me the best options are: “Gruven parts” and “SBD part # AVW1312” which are sold on Ebay.
Both offer a life-time warranty; Gruven parts are made of aluminum with Delrin insert, and AVW1312 are entirely made of Delrin and cost about 40% less, and they look much more similar to the OEM part, I like this because it allows my car to maintain the original appearance, rather than look like a "robocop" or "transformer".
Has anyone tested the SBD AVW1312 parts?
I would like some suggestions.
Thanks
06-19-2014, 02:03 PM
#77
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Hi, I already checked the shafts that open/close paths turning teardrop shaped leaves by hand I was able to move it. this parts look good.
Also I bought the plastic Delrin linkage arms from Ebay, for recommendation the other guy who is using them for more than one year, and this look much more strong that the OEM one, fit perfect, has a life time warranty and was also super fast free shipping.
I think I did a good deal and save good money
If you want to know check the links:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271339100796...84.m1555.l2649
Also I bought the plastic Delrin linkage arms from Ebay, for recommendation the other guy who is using them for more than one year, and this look much more strong that the OEM one, fit perfect, has a life time warranty and was also super fast free shipping.
I think I did a good deal and save good money
If you want to know check the links:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271339100796...84.m1555.l2649
06-23-2014, 03:56 AM
#78
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thats same plastic material as the OEM arms, yes they do last for a little while but why go through all this again when they break. just get metal ones, seems like a no brainer to me.
as for the lifetime warranty off a guy from ebay ... lol ... good luck with that !
as for the lifetime warranty off a guy from ebay ... lol ... good luck with that !
06-24-2014, 03:37 PM
#79
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Plastic or Polymer
Delrin used commonly as an alternative to metal, to make bearings, pulleys and gears. Did you think that it is not good enough for the link arm?
I kept finding on the matter and am well pleased to have decided by the SBD from eBay and save good money.
06-30-2014, 10:03 AM
#80
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Incorrect, sir. The arms break at the interface of center link section to the ball.
The GruvenParts versions use Delrin at the ball/socket interface only (for lubrication), however it is entirely captive by the billet aluminum body, so there is no weak point to break like your fleabay plastic 1s.
You can keep the argument going I guess but 6061-T6 aluminum is much stronger than Delrin (and it wont degrade in the engine heat). Delrin is good to use as a slip surface but is not meant for the entire arm to be made from it. Look at all the broken plastic pictures floating around of these plastic arms.
and $57 is pricey for cheap plastic arm from a fleabay seller...
The GruvenParts versions use Delrin at the ball/socket interface only (for lubrication), however it is entirely captive by the billet aluminum body, so there is no weak point to break like your fleabay plastic 1s.
You can keep the argument going I guess but 6061-T6 aluminum is much stronger than Delrin (and it wont degrade in the engine heat). Delrin is good to use as a slip surface but is not meant for the entire arm to be made from it. Look at all the broken plastic pictures floating around of these plastic arms.
and $57 is pricey for cheap plastic arm from a fleabay seller...