FL C6.5 Avant

you could always do the pump out/in--can get messy though. never been clear to me that this method is 100% old fluid out--since it starts to mix inside the case as soon as you draw the fresh fluid in? Would really need to know the internal hydraulic circuit to be sure....
You should have ZF 8 (blue). Check with Hans at CTSC if you are unsure (give him the trans code--example mine is MCC--off the sticker in the spare tire well).

Also, how did you verify the washer tube was in fact good--did you actually pull trim? I believe the leak point is left of the left hinge aft looking forward. There was supposed to be a fix from factory somewhere along the way, but not sure exactly which VIN and up that applies to....

4Driver4

This is not that big of an issue. The important thing to change, based on my experience, is the filter. This is one reason why flushing (especially reverse flushing is such a bad idea.

Change the fluid and filter. Don't worry about the mixing. Do you really thing you get all the engine oil out every time?

B. Rock

Switching gears from the transmission topic (see what I did there?), I got the VCDS in and was able to run the optical test. Results are:

Controller Electrical Optical
19-CAN Gateway OK ERROR
07-Control Head(High/D3) OK OK
0E-Media Player 1 OK OK
1E-Media Player 2 OK OK
77-Telephone ERROR ERROR
47-Sound System ERROR ERROR
56-Radio ERROR ERROR
37-Navigation ERROR ERROR
0F-Digital Radio ERROR ERROR

Any thoughts? Seems to me that the gateway optical error is a concern, but that if the telephone module is out the rest downstream of it will follow suit, yes?

life4sk8

Have you did a complete auto scan. You have a lot of things broken on the mmi loop. You have to find why this happen if you want to prevent this from happening again. Have you check under the carpet for water? This might give you some clues. Under the carpet it a kind of sponge bond with the carpet and it can keep a lot of water. Next check for overvoltage error code and make sure all the optic fiber is not bend too much. If it bend too much you lost the signal and this can cause you problem.

B. Rock

Found 5 errors:

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: Malfunction 0010
4C-Tire Pressure II -- Status: Malfunction 0010
6D-Trunk Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010

I presume as I did not have the engine running, that is the cause for hte engine malfunction error.

The CAN gateway showed a broken optical loop error : 00384 - Optical Databus
011 - Open Circuit


Seat error: 03331 - Motor for Backrest Angle Adjustment

The tire pressure is leftover from a fix, just can't reset it w/o getting in to the MMI.

Trunk error: 02786 - Module 2 for Hatch / Trunk Lid (J756)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

B. Rock

Realized I never updated this thread. Ended up being the Bluetooth module under the driver's seat. It had some water damage so I dropped in the optical loop jumper, and it's been fine ever since.

ijn

I researched the transmission fluid change for my 06. Sadly it had 120K miles on it and the every mechanic has said to not change it now... it would likely start slipping and need a new one. I called various Audi dealerships and spoke with their techs. One who seemed knowledgeable said he would may be change 2 quarts only. But numerous said not to do it now... it's too late. However, they also said that they had cars In there with 200K miles on them and still going strong. I want to at least change the filter and then replace any fluid that was lost during the procedure, but now I just don't know. But 90K is probably pushing it for a fluid change. I would recommend following what others have done and only change what is in the reservoir, and not try to do a full flush. Especially if the fluid is not black and burnt. Then you're good, and just do that again every 40K miles or so. It will probably last a long time.


I could be opening a can of worms mentioning any of this, but it seemed that if at 60K miles, a fluid change is ok. Over 100K miles is taking a chance. Good luck. I should mention that the Avant is not a CVT. If yours is, then I have no idea what to do.


A year into owning my 2006 A6 Avant, I still feel awesome when I'm in it. It is such a great car, and a deal when buying used. If listening to a CD, put it in Surround mode... it's AWESOME.

B. Rock

I was just updating a ~2.5 yr old thread with the solution in case anyone else came across it later.

I did end up changing the trans fluid and filter (my trans ended up taking ZF6) and it made a big difference. Didn't take very long either We have 108k on the car now and I plan on doing it again soon as a 'catch up' per ZF's recommended schedule.

I will say it's been a damn good car - good on gas for its size, plenty of power through the hills of CO, and holds extra people, dogs, and gear with no problem. The only items I've had to replace outside of regular maintenance have been the front sway bar end links which took all of 30 minutes.

tazerproof

If you've replaced the end links, you make want to take a look at your control arm bushings. I noticed mine were bad(along with the end links) when I replaced my front air springs.

The car drove fine, but now with the new control arms it's much tighter and more responsive.

B. Rock

Yep - they are cracking, but not yet failed. Same for the lower strut bushing/mount (couldn't get a great look at the upper strut mount). That will probably be a whole front end refresh later on down the road. Thanks for looking out though.