Audi 100/A6 (C4 92-97) FAQ Digest
09-12-2005, 02:35 PM
#101
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Compendium of Posts Outlining Ignition Switch R&R Procedure
I noticed this FAQ doesn't really have an entry for replacing the ignition switch, so I thought I'd share the results of my spending a couple of hours sifting thru search results. And since I don't know the prevailing feeling about reposting text written by other members, I'll just post links to their posts.
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/40096.phtml use with the next link covering instrument cluster removal: https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/22219.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/10899.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/13399.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/28564.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/47727.phtml (more info on removing the IC)
I haven't done this R&R yet, and so don't have any personal input. It appears the instructions may vary for different models and model years.
This obviously isn't exhaustive...feel free to add more.
Edit: OK, NOW I have something to add.
Given: 1992 Audi 100 CS, automatic transmission
Non-quattro
New black switch
A handful of write-ups from this board
My very user-UNfriendly Bentley CD-ROM
Process: Pulled the IC most of the way, only unplugged 2 connectors and that gave me enough room to manuever. Pulled the knee bolster panels, which turned out to be completely unnecessary. Forget screwing around with the Bowden Cable Cover, as Bentley calls it, I didn't need to do it. Moved the relay that's obviously in the way, unplugged the connector from the back of the switch, loosened the two little set screws...out came the switch.
Key elements to reassembly--note proper orientation of new switch before sticking it into the dark void. I couldn't get the connector back on after I had the switch installed so I pulled it back out, plugged in the connector, and then stuffed back into the dash and into the end of the lock cylinder....that worked just fine for me.
I have to wonder if the high failure rate for these switches is due to people forcing the switch to turn when the steering wheel is locked. I'm in the habit of jiggling the steering wheel enough to let the key turn easily.
And, I don't see how a heavy keyring could wear the plastic ignition switch. The switch is about 4 or 5 inches behind the dash on the end of a long metal lock cylinder. I don't see any way for the weight to be transferred to the plastic parts.
my 2 cents...
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/40096.phtml use with the next link covering instrument cluster removal: https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/22219.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/10899.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/13399.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/28564.phtml
https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/47727.phtml (more info on removing the IC)
I haven't done this R&R yet, and so don't have any personal input. It appears the instructions may vary for different models and model years.
This obviously isn't exhaustive...feel free to add more.
Edit: OK, NOW I have something to add.
Given: 1992 Audi 100 CS, automatic transmission
Non-quattro
New black switch
A handful of write-ups from this board
My very user-UNfriendly Bentley CD-ROM
Process: Pulled the IC most of the way, only unplugged 2 connectors and that gave me enough room to manuever. Pulled the knee bolster panels, which turned out to be completely unnecessary. Forget screwing around with the Bowden Cable Cover, as Bentley calls it, I didn't need to do it. Moved the relay that's obviously in the way, unplugged the connector from the back of the switch, loosened the two little set screws...out came the switch.
Key elements to reassembly--note proper orientation of new switch before sticking it into the dark void. I couldn't get the connector back on after I had the switch installed so I pulled it back out, plugged in the connector, and then stuffed back into the dash and into the end of the lock cylinder....that worked just fine for me.
I have to wonder if the high failure rate for these switches is due to people forcing the switch to turn when the steering wheel is locked. I'm in the habit of jiggling the steering wheel enough to let the key turn easily.
And, I don't see how a heavy keyring could wear the plastic ignition switch. The switch is about 4 or 5 inches behind the dash on the end of a long metal lock cylinder. I don't see any way for the weight to be transferred to the plastic parts.
my 2 cents...
09-16-2005, 08:29 AM
#102
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auto transmission dipstick! Read on if you want to make one!
For anyone in need to check their ATF level for emergency purposes I can help, but you need to precisely mark these measurements on a semi flexible 1mm thick rod measuring at least 700mm long.
I have the 1993 100 v6 12 valve, auto, front wheel drive. I do not have a filling plug at the transmission pan, only a drain plug! The dipstick is number 2. part number:
01F 321 431 A. so you need to have the filler tube that has number 2 on it.
At the tip of the dipstick, first, you have a cold fluid reading (20C) mark, second, a warmed up minimum mark (80C), and third, a warmed up maximum mark (80C)
Checking level temperature is 80C plus or minus 10C, so between 70C and 90C degrees
The overall length of the dipstick, the point that stops at the brim of the filler tube, and the very tip, is exactly 615mm.
The exact length from the tip, to the cold fluid (20C) mark is 11mm
The exact length from the tip, to the warmed up (80C) minimum mark is 31mm
The exact length from the tip, to the warmed up (80C) maximum mark is 66mm
The exact distance from the max (80C) mark to min (80C) mark is 25mm
The exact distance from the min (80C) mark to the cold fluid (20C) mark is 21mm
For the 615mm mark, just bend the rod 90 degrees. For the tip markings just score the marks with a file. And roughen the tip section in a way so the metal can absorb the ATF like it does on your oil dipstick. But you need to know the exact process of checking the level using this tool! Remember, all four wheels of the vehicle must be at the exact same altitude, or in other words, nice and level
Another idea is to make the tip section marks with wire shrink wrap. Cut a RED piece of shrink wrap to about 76mm(doesnt need to be exact on this one, its just a background) and heat shrink it to the tip of the rod(make sure it shrinks good and tight!) now cut a black piece of shrink wrap 1mm long like an o ring, and heat shrink that to the marks.
Or you can be crazy and cut the76mm background (yellow), shrink it,
Then a 66mm (80C) max section (red), shrink it. Then the 31mm (80C) min section (black)shrink it, then the 11mm cold fluid(20C) section (blue) shrink it. So the color code would go, starting from the tip: BLUE, BLACK, RED, YELLOW. Blue meaning when checking the ATF level at cold, the ATF should fill that section. Black meaning when checking the level at warm up the ATF reading is too low. The Red meaning when checking the level at warm up, the ATF reading is ok. And the Yellow meaning when checking the level at warm up, the ATF reading is too much. And so on and so forth. Sound complicated? Dont worry just draw the dipstick on paper or something, and then make it.
Now you have a color coded, easy to read ATF level checking tool!!! yay! I spent $40 including shipping on the dipstick tool in the U.S. All it will cost you is a couple of bucks,a metric ruler, and some time, to check out how your transmission is doing or if you are doing the ATF service. That is, of course, if you trust me! Ha-ha! Dont worry, I spent a long time getting these measurements and making sure they were precise. Or, if you doubt me, just buy one(practically no one supplies it;or jst ask me for the link.). Good luck.
I have the 1993 100 v6 12 valve, auto, front wheel drive. I do not have a filling plug at the transmission pan, only a drain plug! The dipstick is number 2. part number:
01F 321 431 A. so you need to have the filler tube that has number 2 on it.
At the tip of the dipstick, first, you have a cold fluid reading (20C) mark, second, a warmed up minimum mark (80C), and third, a warmed up maximum mark (80C)
Checking level temperature is 80C plus or minus 10C, so between 70C and 90C degrees
The overall length of the dipstick, the point that stops at the brim of the filler tube, and the very tip, is exactly 615mm.
The exact length from the tip, to the cold fluid (20C) mark is 11mm
The exact length from the tip, to the warmed up (80C) minimum mark is 31mm
The exact length from the tip, to the warmed up (80C) maximum mark is 66mm
The exact distance from the max (80C) mark to min (80C) mark is 25mm
The exact distance from the min (80C) mark to the cold fluid (20C) mark is 21mm
For the 615mm mark, just bend the rod 90 degrees. For the tip markings just score the marks with a file. And roughen the tip section in a way so the metal can absorb the ATF like it does on your oil dipstick. But you need to know the exact process of checking the level using this tool! Remember, all four wheels of the vehicle must be at the exact same altitude, or in other words, nice and level
Another idea is to make the tip section marks with wire shrink wrap. Cut a RED piece of shrink wrap to about 76mm(doesnt need to be exact on this one, its just a background) and heat shrink it to the tip of the rod(make sure it shrinks good and tight!) now cut a black piece of shrink wrap 1mm long like an o ring, and heat shrink that to the marks.
Or you can be crazy and cut the76mm background (yellow), shrink it,
Then a 66mm (80C) max section (red), shrink it. Then the 31mm (80C) min section (black)shrink it, then the 11mm cold fluid(20C) section (blue) shrink it. So the color code would go, starting from the tip: BLUE, BLACK, RED, YELLOW. Blue meaning when checking the ATF level at cold, the ATF should fill that section. Black meaning when checking the level at warm up the ATF reading is too low. The Red meaning when checking the level at warm up, the ATF reading is ok. And the Yellow meaning when checking the level at warm up, the ATF reading is too much. And so on and so forth. Sound complicated? Dont worry just draw the dipstick on paper or something, and then make it.
Now you have a color coded, easy to read ATF level checking tool!!! yay! I spent $40 including shipping on the dipstick tool in the U.S. All it will cost you is a couple of bucks,a metric ruler, and some time, to check out how your transmission is doing or if you are doing the ATF service. That is, of course, if you trust me! Ha-ha! Dont worry, I spent a long time getting these measurements and making sure they were precise. Or, if you doubt me, just buy one(practically no one supplies it;or jst ask me for the link.). Good luck.
09-26-2005, 08:49 PM
#103
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How to program IR keys and/or reactivate the IR locking system:
First, heed the first couple remarks, then follow the procedure below to reset/activate the IR keys.
- Make sure the batteries are fresh (the cheapies last for only 6-8 months, the expensivo ones last for a couple years). Stick to well-known brands.
- Do this procedure where flourescent lights are not around, they'll interfere and mess it all up.
- You need a second key, does not have to be another IR key, just a spare you can make anywhere.
- Always program ALL the keys you have at the same time, 'cause the vacuum pump (locking control module) will store four codes and I think it starts from the beginning each time and erases any previous entries.
Step #1: Using the second/spare key, place the ignition in the ON/RUN position
* Next three steps have to be completed within 30 seconds, otherwise you gotta start over.
2: Close and manually lock all the doors. You're outside of your car on this one. Use the key to lock the doors or at least the last door to have completed closing/locking all doors.
3: Point the IR key you want programmed at the IR sensor (the little knobby on the B pillar that everyone goes, 'what the H is that?') and briefly press the little button on the key from one to four times (depending on which key you're programming). I.E. press once, for key 1, twice for key 2, etc.
**Note** - Corresponding to the key number, you have to press the button on the key in one second intervals. I.E. for key 3, you'd press the button once, wait a second, hit it a second time, wait a second, then hit it one more time.
The alarm horn (the weak-sounding little honk) will toot after each time you press the button to confirm reception.
4: After entering the last pulse of the key number, and the horn sounds that last time, PRESS AND HOLD the key button for 10 seconds. Remember to always keep the key pointed at that little sensor.
The car will unlock and the key is then programmed.
There's some other crap this IR system goes through that can also be the problem. It happens if:
- The battery in the car is disconnected or dead for a long time.
- Just the IR locking system isn't used for a long time.
- The security codes for the key are out of sync with the central locking pump 'cause the button on the key was pressed too many times while out of range of the sensor. I don't know how many times though.
Here's how to reactivate the system:
1: Press the button on the key while pointing it at the little knobby on the B-pillar.
2: Within one minute, manually unlock driver or passenger side door.
3: Done. Reactivated. You're my hero.
Don't think I left anything out. Let me know if I did.
- Make sure the batteries are fresh (the cheapies last for only 6-8 months, the expensivo ones last for a couple years). Stick to well-known brands.
- Do this procedure where flourescent lights are not around, they'll interfere and mess it all up.
- You need a second key, does not have to be another IR key, just a spare you can make anywhere.
- Always program ALL the keys you have at the same time, 'cause the vacuum pump (locking control module) will store four codes and I think it starts from the beginning each time and erases any previous entries.
Step #1: Using the second/spare key, place the ignition in the ON/RUN position
* Next three steps have to be completed within 30 seconds, otherwise you gotta start over.
2: Close and manually lock all the doors. You're outside of your car on this one. Use the key to lock the doors or at least the last door to have completed closing/locking all doors.
3: Point the IR key you want programmed at the IR sensor (the little knobby on the B pillar that everyone goes, 'what the H is that?') and briefly press the little button on the key from one to four times (depending on which key you're programming). I.E. press once, for key 1, twice for key 2, etc.
**Note** - Corresponding to the key number, you have to press the button on the key in one second intervals. I.E. for key 3, you'd press the button once, wait a second, hit it a second time, wait a second, then hit it one more time.
The alarm horn (the weak-sounding little honk) will toot after each time you press the button to confirm reception.
4: After entering the last pulse of the key number, and the horn sounds that last time, PRESS AND HOLD the key button for 10 seconds. Remember to always keep the key pointed at that little sensor.
The car will unlock and the key is then programmed.
There's some other crap this IR system goes through that can also be the problem. It happens if:
- The battery in the car is disconnected or dead for a long time.
- Just the IR locking system isn't used for a long time.
- The security codes for the key are out of sync with the central locking pump 'cause the button on the key was pressed too many times while out of range of the sensor. I don't know how many times though.
Here's how to reactivate the system:
1: Press the button on the key while pointing it at the little knobby on the B-pillar.
2: Within one minute, manually unlock driver or passenger side door.
3: Done. Reactivated. You're my hero.
Don't think I left anything out. Let me know if I did.
09-28-2005, 10:27 PM
#105
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How to replace the ingnition switch:
I didn't remove the steering wheel like the Bentley says, but it may be easier. To me, it's not worth dealing with the finicky airbag system anyway.
So here's how you do it:
- First disconnect your battery. Get your radio code 'cause it'll go into SAFE mode when you hook up the battery again.
- Lower the steering wheel and pull it as far back as it will go.
- Remove two screws holding the bottom ledge of the dash plastic on. This is just beneath the instrument cluster (IC), one screw on each side of the steering wheel.
- Pull the left side of the trim piece back and then slide the whole piece towards you and to the left.
- Remove three screws holding down the IC.
- Cover your steering column with a clean rag or old t-shirt to prevent scratches or ugly marks.
- Jimmy the instrument cluster back towards you and out of the hole. Probably need to start with the right side.
- Pull IC back and then rotate the right side vertical so that it is standing nearly straight up, wedged between the steering wheel and the dash. This gives you room to work.
- Follow the ignition switch (where you stick the key) back behind the dash and you'll see a pink or purple clip on the portion you have to change out. Look at the new switch you bought to see what it looks like.
- Before removing the switch, there are two screws that hold it in place. However, these screws are covered by some thread locking compound and need to be cleared before you can remove the switch.
- I used a ~4mm wide flathead screwdriver to dig 'em out AND to remove them. I coulda sworn I was just stripping the top of the screw, but it turned out that the screw is really tough and that I was stripping the aluminum threads it sat in--which is no big deal.
- Once you clear the little RED thread locking stuff from the screws, back them out so that a couple threads are sticking out. You don't need to remove them.
- Now the switch should slide backwards. Play with the switch (with wire harness still attached) until you can get the female end looking directly at you. This isn't easy as there's another thick cable that confines it to that small area behind the lock cylinder of the ignition.
- Pull the harness off. It's ok to GENTLY use a screwdriver to help pry the harness off.
- Place the new switch in the harness.
- Place the assemly back in the mounting bracket with the two thread-locked screws. This takes some patience and good aim. I moved the routing of the wires so that WHEN this switch breaks, I can easily switch-out-the-switch.
- Tighten down the two thread-locked flathead screws. I don't think it's important to put any more locking compound here. Your choice, but if you're car all of a sudden doesn't start, you know why...
- You can either check operation of switch (start the car) or go to the next step.
- Put the IC back in; three screws hold it in.
- Put the trim piece back in; two vertical screws hold it in.
- Voila!
Let me know if I missed anything.
So here's how you do it:
- First disconnect your battery. Get your radio code 'cause it'll go into SAFE mode when you hook up the battery again.
- Lower the steering wheel and pull it as far back as it will go.
- Remove two screws holding the bottom ledge of the dash plastic on. This is just beneath the instrument cluster (IC), one screw on each side of the steering wheel.
- Pull the left side of the trim piece back and then slide the whole piece towards you and to the left.
- Remove three screws holding down the IC.
- Cover your steering column with a clean rag or old t-shirt to prevent scratches or ugly marks.
- Jimmy the instrument cluster back towards you and out of the hole. Probably need to start with the right side.
- Pull IC back and then rotate the right side vertical so that it is standing nearly straight up, wedged between the steering wheel and the dash. This gives you room to work.
- Follow the ignition switch (where you stick the key) back behind the dash and you'll see a pink or purple clip on the portion you have to change out. Look at the new switch you bought to see what it looks like.
- Before removing the switch, there are two screws that hold it in place. However, these screws are covered by some thread locking compound and need to be cleared before you can remove the switch.
- I used a ~4mm wide flathead screwdriver to dig 'em out AND to remove them. I coulda sworn I was just stripping the top of the screw, but it turned out that the screw is really tough and that I was stripping the aluminum threads it sat in--which is no big deal.
- Once you clear the little RED thread locking stuff from the screws, back them out so that a couple threads are sticking out. You don't need to remove them.
- Now the switch should slide backwards. Play with the switch (with wire harness still attached) until you can get the female end looking directly at you. This isn't easy as there's another thick cable that confines it to that small area behind the lock cylinder of the ignition.
- Pull the harness off. It's ok to GENTLY use a screwdriver to help pry the harness off.
- Place the new switch in the harness.
- Place the assemly back in the mounting bracket with the two thread-locked screws. This takes some patience and good aim. I moved the routing of the wires so that WHEN this switch breaks, I can easily switch-out-the-switch.
- Tighten down the two thread-locked flathead screws. I don't think it's important to put any more locking compound here. Your choice, but if you're car all of a sudden doesn't start, you know why...
- You can either check operation of switch (start the car) or go to the next step.
- Put the IC back in; three screws hold it in.
- Put the trim piece back in; two vertical screws hold it in.
- Voila!
Let me know if I missed anything.
11-27-2005, 06:34 PM
#106
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Transmission Fluid Service
Here's my story about servicing the trans fluid in my 1996 A6 Quattro Avant.
I serviced my auto trans the other day. The car has 130K miles and I doubt that the trans fluid has ever been changed. I bought the car at 79K miles and, having met the woman who previously owned the car, it's unlikely that the trans was serviced by her.
Rather than do a complete flush and replace, I decided to do a service first, i.e. change only the fluid in the trans pan and the filter. The service versus flush theory is that the old fluid allowed deposits to build up in the trans valve body. A complete flush would add lots of new detergents that might break the deposits free and clog internal valves. My approach only replaces about one-third of the fluid which should work on the deposits more gradually. Afterwards, I'll drive the car for about 1,000 miles and then do another service. And, maybe next Spring, I'll do the full flush.
Here's the procedure. I drove the car over to my brother's shop. He has a lift. That's very handy as you'll see below. The drive over there warmed the car up fully. Up on the lift, I loosened but didn't remove the fill plug on the side of the trans pan (22mm hex head) and the drain plug on the bottom (allen plug, about 5mm I think). Make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the pan...just in case.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/drain_plug.jpg">
Drain Plug
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/fill_plug.jpg">
Fill Plug
I removed the drain plug and drained the fluid into a container. The fluid smelled burnt and looked really dirty. I let it drain for quite a while to get as much as I could. Only the fluid in the pan drained out (about 2.5 quarts). The rest of the fluid remained in the trans and torque converter (another 5 quarts). When it finished draining, I replaced the drain plug and tightened it well (I don't know the torque spec).
Next, I removed the 4 nuts (about 10mm) that clamp the pan to the transmission. The nuts hold small clamps in place so the corners of the pan get even pressure. The clamps were well stuck in place so I had to work them back and forth until they dropped off. Then I wiggled the pan until it came free. Here's what you'll see.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/filter_solenoids.jpg">
Trans Filter & Shift Solenoids
The only thing I touched in there was the filter...the large plastic thing. It's held on by 3 Torx screws (I don't know the size). I loosened the screws and the filter dropped right off. I got my new filter and put the filter seal (O-ring) over the round hole on top. The seal seats in a depression machined in the valve body. Then I replaced the filter and screwed it in place. The Torx screws should be torqued to 71 inch pounds (per the Bentley CD-ROM). I could have just tightened them snug but my brother had a small torque wrench. The valve body is aluminum so I didn't want to crank them too tight.
I cleaned the inside of the trans pan with brake cleaning fluid. There was a magnet placed in the bottom of the pan. It's there to trap any metal filings floating around in the fluid. I left the magnet in the pan. I replaced the old pan gasket with the new one and fit the pan back onto the transmission. I replaced the 4 clamps and nuts and torqued them to 53 inch pounds (per the Bentley CD-ROM).
Next, I removed the fill plug from the right side of the pan. Here's where the lift is handy. The car has to be level because I had to pump fluid into the pan until it just dribbled out the fill hole. If the car wasn't level, I wouldn't get the right amount in there. I used a little plastic pump intended to pump oil into outboard motors. Got it at a marine supply store for about $8.00. Just stuck it into the trans fluid container and pumped away. Worked great.
Then I replaced the fill plug but didn't tighten it too much. The fluid I just pumped in had not filled the transmission fully. I started the engine and let it run for a while to warm up. As soon as I started the engine about 1 quart of fluid was sucked out of the pan. When the radiator fans kicked on I knew that the engine and trans were up to temperature. While it was running, I also shifted through the gears a couple of times to make sure fluid circulated everywhere.
Once up to temperature, with the engine still running, I pumped more fluid into the pan until it dribbled out. Now that the trans was completely full, I replaced the fill plug and tightened it securely. You can shut the engine off now.
I double checked my work, made sure all the bolts were tightened, gathered up all of my tools and went for a test drive.
Before I did this service, my car would make a slight chirp on the 2nd-3rd shift and when fully warm would drop into 3rd gear with a thunk. After the service, it's completely normal. No chirp, no thunk. It even seems to have more pep as though the power is being transmitted better. I'm thrilled. And the cost is significantly less than going to the stealer.
Here's my parts cost:
Transmission filter $9.44
Trans pan gasket $3.83
Trans filter seal $0.66
3 liters Pentosin ATF ($11.95 each) $35.85
TOTAL $49.78
(I ordered my parts online from <a href="www.autohausaz.com">www.autohausaz.com</a>)
That's my story about doing my own trans fluid service. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary. Now I can't wait for another 1,000 miles to roll by so I can do another service and see if it gets any better.
Bob.
I serviced my auto trans the other day. The car has 130K miles and I doubt that the trans fluid has ever been changed. I bought the car at 79K miles and, having met the woman who previously owned the car, it's unlikely that the trans was serviced by her.
Rather than do a complete flush and replace, I decided to do a service first, i.e. change only the fluid in the trans pan and the filter. The service versus flush theory is that the old fluid allowed deposits to build up in the trans valve body. A complete flush would add lots of new detergents that might break the deposits free and clog internal valves. My approach only replaces about one-third of the fluid which should work on the deposits more gradually. Afterwards, I'll drive the car for about 1,000 miles and then do another service. And, maybe next Spring, I'll do the full flush.
Here's the procedure. I drove the car over to my brother's shop. He has a lift. That's very handy as you'll see below. The drive over there warmed the car up fully. Up on the lift, I loosened but didn't remove the fill plug on the side of the trans pan (22mm hex head) and the drain plug on the bottom (allen plug, about 5mm I think). Make sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the pan...just in case.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/drain_plug.jpg">
Drain Plug
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/fill_plug.jpg">
Fill Plug
I removed the drain plug and drained the fluid into a container. The fluid smelled burnt and looked really dirty. I let it drain for quite a while to get as much as I could. Only the fluid in the pan drained out (about 2.5 quarts). The rest of the fluid remained in the trans and torque converter (another 5 quarts). When it finished draining, I replaced the drain plug and tightened it well (I don't know the torque spec).
Next, I removed the 4 nuts (about 10mm) that clamp the pan to the transmission. The nuts hold small clamps in place so the corners of the pan get even pressure. The clamps were well stuck in place so I had to work them back and forth until they dropped off. Then I wiggled the pan until it came free. Here's what you'll see.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/filter_solenoids.jpg">
Trans Filter & Shift Solenoids
The only thing I touched in there was the filter...the large plastic thing. It's held on by 3 Torx screws (I don't know the size). I loosened the screws and the filter dropped right off. I got my new filter and put the filter seal (O-ring) over the round hole on top. The seal seats in a depression machined in the valve body. Then I replaced the filter and screwed it in place. The Torx screws should be torqued to 71 inch pounds (per the Bentley CD-ROM). I could have just tightened them snug but my brother had a small torque wrench. The valve body is aluminum so I didn't want to crank them too tight.
I cleaned the inside of the trans pan with brake cleaning fluid. There was a magnet placed in the bottom of the pan. It's there to trap any metal filings floating around in the fluid. I left the magnet in the pan. I replaced the old pan gasket with the new one and fit the pan back onto the transmission. I replaced the 4 clamps and nuts and torqued them to 53 inch pounds (per the Bentley CD-ROM).
Next, I removed the fill plug from the right side of the pan. Here's where the lift is handy. The car has to be level because I had to pump fluid into the pan until it just dribbled out the fill hole. If the car wasn't level, I wouldn't get the right amount in there. I used a little plastic pump intended to pump oil into outboard motors. Got it at a marine supply store for about $8.00. Just stuck it into the trans fluid container and pumped away. Worked great.
Then I replaced the fill plug but didn't tighten it too much. The fluid I just pumped in had not filled the transmission fully. I started the engine and let it run for a while to warm up. As soon as I started the engine about 1 quart of fluid was sucked out of the pan. When the radiator fans kicked on I knew that the engine and trans were up to temperature. While it was running, I also shifted through the gears a couple of times to make sure fluid circulated everywhere.
Once up to temperature, with the engine still running, I pumped more fluid into the pan until it dribbled out. Now that the trans was completely full, I replaced the fill plug and tightened it securely. You can shut the engine off now.
I double checked my work, made sure all the bolts were tightened, gathered up all of my tools and went for a test drive.
Before I did this service, my car would make a slight chirp on the 2nd-3rd shift and when fully warm would drop into 3rd gear with a thunk. After the service, it's completely normal. No chirp, no thunk. It even seems to have more pep as though the power is being transmitted better. I'm thrilled. And the cost is significantly less than going to the stealer.
Here's my parts cost:
Transmission filter $9.44
Trans pan gasket $3.83
Trans filter seal $0.66
3 liters Pentosin ATF ($11.95 each) $35.85
TOTAL $49.78
(I ordered my parts online from <a href="www.autohausaz.com">www.autohausaz.com</a>)
That's my story about doing my own trans fluid service. It worked for me. Your mileage may vary. Now I can't wait for another 1,000 miles to roll by so I can do another service and see if it gets any better.
Bob.
11-28-2005, 05:30 PM
#107
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Re: Temp Flap Repair Tip
Replaced my temp control flap motor today---had no heat--now I do! This is a '96 A6Q Avant, by the way.
In doing so, I found one thing that I would have ordered up in addition to the motor itself---the hard plastic cover for side of the box. The plastic is pretty old at this point obviously and two of the platic tabs were already broken either from wear & tear or someone had overtightened in past.
I was able to get mine back on there, and should be fine for a while until I get ahold of replacement---but just thought I'd pass the info along---with hindsight I would definitely recommend trying to source a cover at same time.
In doing so, I found one thing that I would have ordered up in addition to the motor itself---the hard plastic cover for side of the box. The plastic is pretty old at this point obviously and two of the platic tabs were already broken either from wear & tear or someone had overtightened in past.
I was able to get mine back on there, and should be fine for a while until I get ahold of replacement---but just thought I'd pass the info along---with hindsight I would definitely recommend trying to source a cover at same time.
05-22-2006, 06:38 PM
#109
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More info...I've done this 2x now.
First, the good news: It only took me about 20 minutes to change out my ignition switch the 2nd time. Granted, I just pulled a switch from a car in the junkyard and knew *EXACTLY* where all the screws were that I needed to find. I also took a couple of minutes to test and install a auto trans gear indicator in my instrument cluster...another junkyard score....and a very simple job to R&R.
Background: I replaced my ignition switch shortly after buying my used 1992 Audi 100 CS (about 9 months ago) because the horn wouldn't honk if the windshield wipers were on...or was it only if they were on...I don't recall. In any case, the symptoms pointed to the ig sw. I bought an (aftermarket) switch from AutohausAZ and put it in...no big deal.
Recently I've been experiencing a condition where about 1 out of 10 times I try to start the car it won't turn over. The instrument cluster lights wouldn't turn on when the car wouldn't start. The did when the car would start....classic ig switch failure....so I nabbed a switch from the junkyard that had the "B" designation and decided to pop it in.
Here's a photo of the only 2 tools I needed:
A standard phillips screw driver and a small flat blade screw driver.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1423.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Sorry I didn't snap any photos while doing the work...consider it part of the Audi Adventure. The biggest time sink in both cases was trying to get the connector back on the switch...mark it well and good luck.
Here's a shot of the OEM part (left) vs the aftermarket part (right) that failed on me. Note the lack of the 4-ring Audi emblem on the aftermarket part.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1424.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1425.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1431.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Here is the damage that I suspect caused the symptoms I was experiencing (an internal spring was gouging the central "tower' of the aftermarket part")
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1416.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1415.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
The spring (with the bits of gouged plastic attached):
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1417.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Was the barb on the end of the spring on the aftermarket part really the problem in this case? I don't absolutely know....but I have a hunch. I'll let you know if my hunch doesn't pan out.
Background: I replaced my ignition switch shortly after buying my used 1992 Audi 100 CS (about 9 months ago) because the horn wouldn't honk if the windshield wipers were on...or was it only if they were on...I don't recall. In any case, the symptoms pointed to the ig sw. I bought an (aftermarket) switch from AutohausAZ and put it in...no big deal.
Recently I've been experiencing a condition where about 1 out of 10 times I try to start the car it won't turn over. The instrument cluster lights wouldn't turn on when the car wouldn't start. The did when the car would start....classic ig switch failure....so I nabbed a switch from the junkyard that had the "B" designation and decided to pop it in.
Here's a photo of the only 2 tools I needed:
A standard phillips screw driver and a small flat blade screw driver.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1423.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Sorry I didn't snap any photos while doing the work...consider it part of the Audi Adventure. The biggest time sink in both cases was trying to get the connector back on the switch...mark it well and good luck.
Here's a shot of the OEM part (left) vs the aftermarket part (right) that failed on me. Note the lack of the 4-ring Audi emblem on the aftermarket part.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1424.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1425.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1431.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Here is the damage that I suspect caused the symptoms I was experiencing (an internal spring was gouging the central "tower' of the aftermarket part")
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1416.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1415.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
The spring (with the bits of gouged plastic attached):
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/Audi%20Ignition%20Switch/DSCN1417.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
Was the barb on the end of the spring on the aftermarket part really the problem in this case? I don't absolutely know....but I have a hunch. I'll let you know if my hunch doesn't pan out.
06-24-2006, 01:44 PM
#110
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FW: If you have Ignition Switch Problems? read this long rant!
Here's a post from v b chil-n about this ignition switch woes. He found that there's a little metal piece that goes missing or breaks or something. Has anyone confirmed this yet?
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/58896.phtml">clickity!</a>
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/58896.phtml">clickity!</a>
