08-09-2016, 10:18 AM
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- Audi Q5 How to Replace Battery<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Q7 battery replacement
12-25-2013, 09:54 AM
#43
From the Ross Tech website (VAG Com programming procedure):
http://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Resu...q=q7%20battery
This procedure details how to replace a battery in a vehicle using a separate battery management control module. See the separate instructions for models where the battery management control module is a slave/subsystem of the gateway.
The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.
[Select]
[61 - Battery Regulation]
[Coding - 07]
Use the pull down menu to select the battery (slave) listed as #1.
[Battery Coding]
Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).
Select the new Battery Vendor.
[OK]
[Do it!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Your new Battery should now be coded and the Battery Control Module should be aware of the new Battery.
Note: The 10 digit serial number may be preceded by the battery vendor code, for instance VA0 of Varta. If the code is VA0310314E04G then drop the VA0 and just enter 310314E04G. Sometimes the battery part number sticker can cover up the white sticker with the serial number.
http://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Resu...q=q7%20battery
This procedure details how to replace a battery in a vehicle using a separate battery management control module. See the separate instructions for models where the battery management control module is a slave/subsystem of the gateway.
The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.
[Select]
[61 - Battery Regulation]
[Coding - 07]
Use the pull down menu to select the battery (slave) listed as #1.
[Battery Coding]
Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).
Select the new Battery Vendor.
[OK]
[Do it!]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Your new Battery should now be coded and the Battery Control Module should be aware of the new Battery.
Note: The 10 digit serial number may be preceded by the battery vendor code, for instance VA0 of Varta. If the code is VA0310314E04G then drop the VA0 and just enter 310314E04G. Sometimes the battery part number sticker can cover up the white sticker with the serial number.
01-23-2014, 10:40 AM
#44
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Installed new battery
Original OEM battery finally kicked yesterday after nearly 7 years. Installed Duralast Optima Gold H8 battery yesterday with a battery maintainer connected to posts under hood. Once started with new battery had EPC, TPMS and ESP warning lights on. Drove car for 5 minutes all disappeared. All Vag-Com settings still intact ie: one click remote up/down windows...battery meter did not respond till today and it is now at 100% from 5%. All settings are as they should be.
No problems to address. Car started up in minus degree temperature with one push of start button and roared like lion. No hesitation. No need to code. heard you only need to do with a new audi battery. We shall see.
No problems to address. Car started up in minus degree temperature with one push of start button and roared like lion. No hesitation. No need to code. heard you only need to do with a new audi battery. We shall see.
04-11-2014, 06:28 PM
#46
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: New York, NY
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Original OEM battery finally kicked yesterday after nearly 7 years. Installed Duralast Optima Gold H8 battery yesterday with a battery maintainer connected to posts under hood. Once started with new battery had EPC, TPMS and ESP warning lights on. Drove car for 5 minutes all disappeared. All Vag-Com settings still intact ie: one click remote up/down windows...battery meter did not respond till today and it is now at 100% from 5%. All settings are as they should be.
No problems to address. Car started up in minus degree temperature with one push of start button and roared like lion. No hesitation. No need to code. heard you only need to do with a new audi battery. We shall see.
No problems to address. Car started up in minus degree temperature with one push of start button and roared like lion. No hesitation. No need to code. heard you only need to do with a new audi battery. We shall see.
Mine is 7 years and 4 months old and still kicking
04-22-2014, 12:41 PM
#49
Somewhat related to this topic, we had our Q7 battery go dead overnight last weekend. Not sure if one of the kids left a light on or something, but we piled in the Q7 for Church Sun AM, went to start engine, and everything was dead except for a couple of dash warning lights. First I thought it was my remote, as it's battery is probably needing replacement so the start stop buttons don't always work, but my wife had her key in the front seat with her as well so it should have started. So I stuck my key in the ignition and tried that, nothing. BUT, the key was now stuck in the ignition lock. Had to get going so we left the Q7, got in my car and left for the morning.
A few lessons learned:
-Didn't know how to get into electric releasing glove box for manuals and Audi tow/service info, should we have needed it.
-Didn't know how to get rear hatch open via manual release, which is where we keep jumper cables down in the spare well.
-Looked online for cautions/warnings on safely jumping or charging a Q7 battery.
So later when returning home, I was able to trickle charge the battery at the engine bay terminals for about 10 minutes and get the glove box and rear hatch releases to open, as well as remove key from ignition. Got out the manual and found the instructions and warnings for jumping/charging (manual says do not try to start car off of battery charger with "start" setting- can damage vehicle electronics). Bumped up my battery charger to the 10Amp setting (manual says 30A is max) and charged for an hour. Car started up and all was fine, though the ESC dash light was on for the first few minutes of my test drive, and then turned itself off. None of the pre-sets or remotes had any loss of memory or function, so there must have been just enough power in the battery to keep everything in memory.
I'm guessing I should get a new battery sooner rather than later, but until we have a more serious battery issue, I'm going to hold off in the short term. Occasionally my dealer has service specials on things like this and if they get within ~$100 of what it would cost me to do it myself, I'll have the dealer do it.
Does anyone know if there is a way of determining battery status (voltage value) through the MMI? I suppose I could throw a meter up to the terminals in the engine bay and get a voltage reading that way....
A few lessons learned:
-Didn't know how to get into electric releasing glove box for manuals and Audi tow/service info, should we have needed it.
-Didn't know how to get rear hatch open via manual release, which is where we keep jumper cables down in the spare well.
-Looked online for cautions/warnings on safely jumping or charging a Q7 battery.
So later when returning home, I was able to trickle charge the battery at the engine bay terminals for about 10 minutes and get the glove box and rear hatch releases to open, as well as remove key from ignition. Got out the manual and found the instructions and warnings for jumping/charging (manual says do not try to start car off of battery charger with "start" setting- can damage vehicle electronics). Bumped up my battery charger to the 10Amp setting (manual says 30A is max) and charged for an hour. Car started up and all was fine, though the ESC dash light was on for the first few minutes of my test drive, and then turned itself off. None of the pre-sets or remotes had any loss of memory or function, so there must have been just enough power in the battery to keep everything in memory.
I'm guessing I should get a new battery sooner rather than later, but until we have a more serious battery issue, I'm going to hold off in the short term. Occasionally my dealer has service specials on things like this and if they get within ~$100 of what it would cost me to do it myself, I'll have the dealer do it.
Does anyone know if there is a way of determining battery status (voltage value) through the MMI? I suppose I could throw a meter up to the terminals in the engine bay and get a voltage reading that way....
