Airbag

I have never done a tensioner, but it looks like the cams have to come out to. Get the chain out. I think you will still need to get the tools.
The most common error with this is getting the number of links wrong between timing marks on the cam.

NEU!

I've been researching this all weekend and have decided how I'm going to proceed.

One of my main concerns with this project is cost. This car was given to me for free and endured some abuse by its previous driver so I'm hesitant to sink too much money into it until I'm sure that it's solid and worth fixing. Therefore, I'm going to begin by ordering the Blauparts enhanced valve cover gasket kit for the 2.8 A6: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF21002-1C

This includes both the tensioner pads and the special tool that I need to compress and remove the tensioner. If the tensioner seems like it's salvageable then I'll put the new pads on and put everything back together with new gaskets and see what happens. I'm assuming that this will require me to remove the timing belt so I'm also going to get the locking pin for the crankshaft and the tool to hold the cams in position.



This should set me back less than $200 initially. I'll keep you all updated on my progress and probably ask some more questions.

Airbag

Okay if cost is an issue theorheticaly youncould do this without the tool. I would mark where the belt is on the pulleys maybe even tie wrap it like hell to the other cam . Mark it on the crank. Then remove the cam and pulley without cracking it. Do your work then put it back the same way.

It's high risk but I think doable.

Just an option although most on here would say never to even try this

NEU!

Considering I am a complete Audi novice I think I will spring for the $60 or so for the kit on eBay.

But if I can get away with just doing the tensioner pads, gaskets, half moon seals, cam seals, VC gaskets, etc. I'll still be under $200 even with buying the special tools.

Part of the joy of this project is to try to get a decent running A6 for as little as possible, so far I still only have $0 invested.

tester123

There are guides that tell you how to remove the tensioner without pulling the t-belt off or removing the cams completely. I have great respect for those who did this considering risk of damage to engine. Not sure about yours but, my 4.2 is an interference engine -which only means you mess up timing, wrong valve opens at wrong time = bent valves = head job (not the kind you are thinking of). Plus, you have tensioner pad pieces broken in the head (not sure if you recovered all). While they may not cause any great damage, you are taking risk with those lying there or worse ending up in oil pump (don't know oil circulation path). So, think about all this.

It is from my direct experience I am going to suggest the following: Get the cam lock bar tool (see if you can rent it) and the crankshaft lock pin. Pull the belt out, inspect parts, if you need t-belt job, do it. Otherwise, continue and pull the cams out marking link locations on chain and cam (Whiteout worked for me after spraying little brake cleaner to remove oil).

The cams are under tension (due to valve springs) and they'd want to seat in less stressing position. While trying to open the cam sprocket, the driverside exhaust cam turned suddenly to its resting position! You can imagine my panic. Later, I was able to recover it and align things back but not without the help of camlock bar. I've used it to turn it and set things back to original position (locking) before putting the sprockets, belt etc. back on.

You maybe able to get away with it if you don't remove t-belt (as everything would locked in by belt) but, I didn't try it and also, to be honest, I wouldn't do it that way. Your call.

NEU!

I wouldn't do it either so I ended up ordering the special tools for locking the cams and crankshaft on eBay, about $65/shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181256889465

When I was removing the valve cover the old brittle plastic breather hose broke so I got one of those too, $24/shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232792173

Finally, I ordered the enhanced valve cover gasket kit with tensioner gaskets, half moon gaskets, cam seals, and tensioner pads from Blauparts: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....d=GF21002%2D1C

The total for everything was $200 and some change. The parts should arrive by the weekend.

As I mentioned previously I am hesitant to put too much money into this car until I'm certain it will be solid enough to be a daily driver. With any luck the above will be enough to fix the issue with the broken tensioner pad that is causing the cams to be out of time on bank 1. But I am willing to put a new tensioner in if that's what it ends up needing. I've found a source for OEM ones for $250.

tester123

Did you call Blauparts about this and see if they have it/how much?
OEM is probably your best bet but consider the mileage as well. There are good and bad aftermarket parts. Some are OE suppliers (in other words, Audi stamps their logo and BAM! it's OEM!) - ex. INA T-Belt idle rollers. When I took the old one off and checked around the inner race, it has the INA label with same numbers as the one I got in Blauparts kit. Only thing missing - VW/0000 logo.

So, unless you know for sure, stay away from "bad" aftermarket type parts. (Hint: eBay is littered with these - so be careful what you buy there).

NEU!

I'm pretty sure the one I found is OEM, it's German-made and has the four rings on it. I will also call Blauparts if it turns out that I need one. As far as I could tell on the site they are just available through them as part of the ultra enhanced valve cover gasket kit. But maybe they will sell them individually.

I know what you mean about junk Chinese parts on eBay, I stay away from them especially with something as critical as an internal engine part. I do enjoy the hunt of finding OE or OEM parts at a nice discount, usually through a reputable eBay vendor. For example, I recently bought two Timken front hub assemblies for my Saab 9000 on eBay for around $100 each which is at least half of what they'd cost from most sources, at the dealer they are nearly $300 each!

tester123

Further, there are chinese (I think) brands by names of "OEM" and "GENUINE"! So, if you are searching, these come up and unless you check, it's easy to be misled.

NEU!

My parts and tools arrived today courtesy of Blauparts and a couple of eBay vendors:



I'm going to start wrenching on Saturday. I'll report back what I find when things come apart.