Tstealth32

Have a code for n276 fuel pressure regulating valve - short to plus.

Causing the check engine light and very rough engine.

both my n276 valves are measuring 0 ohms with a multimetee, which I think is the problem. Could someone here go measure theirs and let me know how many ohms there's is saying?

Also, if you disconnect the plug, do you get a rough idle?


The black connector is the n276 valve on the high pressure fuel pump.

stefan063

Your HPFP (fuel pressure regulator part) is dead. Go search eBay for a new or used one.

summitradio

I just went through this in my car. I'll check my new HPFP. They should ohm out to a low ohm reading as its a solenoid valve and they are inductive.

These pumps are in parallel hydraulically (fuel) if it runs poorly they probably are both bad.
In other words, The do not feed just one side or the engine. They feed both sides together.
Just looking at the misfires at each cylinder will not determine what side is bad. I took a guess and was correct.

With VCDS, use measuring blocks 140-1 140-2 140-3 and 140-4 to get the high fuel pressure readings.
(spec) is what the computer wants
(actual) is what the fuel pressure is.

I found the best prices on HPFP's on Amazon.
The best part is if you get it right the first time you can return the other one!

Good luck

Tstealth32

Just received the 2 new HPFPs. Ohms on the new pumps are reading around 2. My old pumps show 0 ohms. I'll install tomorrow and report back.

Tstealth32

She's back to life! I replaced both hpfp since both n276 valves were bad.

It's very simple, 3 bolts, 2 connectors, and 2 fuel lines. Both cam rollers looked great with no signs of wear.

I'm guessing one n276 valve was failed for a long time, hence my issue with the RPMs having a slight bounce since I bought it 4 years ago. And now the 2nd one failed causing the check engine light.

I also replaced both cam oils control VVT solenoids on top, they were leaking oil out of the seals. Very easy, 1 screw and they slide out.

Cam oil VVT solenoids

summitradio

Congrats! I found that when I replaced just one (passenger side) the car started and ran fine until you got to about 4500 rpm. Then I would get a misfire. So I replaced the other one (driver) and It ran about the same in the lower rpm ranges but when you asked for more it really ran great. Spun all the way to redline like it used to.
With them both dead it barely ran and misfired like crazy. This engine needs both to really run like it should.

Triad.:

I am suspecting my HPFP's as well but can't seem to find anything on amazon or rockauto. Can you share the amazon link you used?

Tstealth32

There are several different numbers for the fuel pumps....04-06 left or right side....07-08 mid year L/R and then 08 mid year+ left or right.

So you'll have to look at yours carefully, make sure in the picture everything looks the exact same as your version.

David Bolich II

Just an FYI these pumps at Advance auto parts are $600 each and the regulators $350 each OEM , They also carry hitachi which the store manager at my local advanced says he has no issues with Hitachi parts what so ever and he got me the whole assembled High Pressure Pump with regulators for $190 each . Just passing that along and here are the part numbers for the Hitachi pumps left is HPP0021 and right is HPP0022.

hope this helps someone else !!!!

summitradio

These are for my 2008 model