Carson@RiversideAudi

Email: cheter@riversideaudi.com<ul><li><a href="http://www.audipartsdepot.com">Audi Parts Depot</a></li></ul>

Jeff Weimer

Could be the cam chain tensioners if is comes from the rear of the engine.

If sound comes from front of the engine, either the water pump or power steering pump could be to blame.

Jeff Weimer

Found this in the 5k/80/90/V8 forum. Since it's on a BMW site, the reservoir cap he uses won't fit. I'm sure we can figure something out. Otherwise it's easy to make, cheap, and complete. He even adds a pressure gauge and describes how to make it so that the right level of fluid remains in the reservoir after you get done without having to suck it out.<ul><li><a href="http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm">http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm</a</li></ul>

BoostLad

Brand:
Two major brands will work well- Bosch and NGK- as well as the somewhat lesser known and hard to find Beru plugs. Most others are to be avoided. Autolite plugs will NOT run well, in most ANY VW and Audi cars. FWIW, Bosch and Beru are German, and NGK is Japanese. MOST VW/Audi cars ship with Bosch as OEM plugs.

Recommended copper plugs:
NGK V-Power BKR6E (stock number 6962)
Bosch F7LTCR - Replaced by the FR7LDC
Beru Ultra X UXF.56


Type:
Copper: a better conductor of heat and spark than platinum or iridium, with a stronger spark and more efficiency; tolerates a wider range of cylinder temps; generally preferred where performance is the priority.
Platinum: much harder, stronger and more durable metal, with a much longer service life than copper. Tips degrade much slower, making them less prone to misfires. Platinum is increasingly used from the factory to increase service intervals (a strong selling point). They run hotter, and may cause detonation in engines with higher compression, cylinder pressure or temperature, and are generally not recommended with forced induction (turbo, supercharger).
Iridium: the next step in the evolution of platinum plugs, with similar characteristics as noted above; a very strong metal to last a long time. Generally expensive, and often claimed to increase performance (they do not).

Performance:
No spark plug can make more power out of nothing- engine power is determined by the amount of fuel/air mixture in a cylinder, and a good spark plug will ignite the entire mixture thoroughly and at the right time. As long as you are not LOSING power due to insufficient spark (old plugs, wrong gap, or platinum in the wrong application), a "performance" plug will not create MORE than optimal power.

Gap: between 0.28 - 0.35. Stock turbos should run towards the higher end of the range, and big turbos should run to the lower end.

Heat Range: Stock heat range is recommended for all K03 applications. K04 turbos can choose a colder heat range, but not necessary. Big turbo kits should run one range colder plug.

Change Interval: Good copper plugs generally last around 30K or more, and good platinum plugs can last as long as 100K. BUT a concerned owner should change sooner, as determined by your budget, motivation and skill level. Shoot for around 20K for copper and around 40-50K for platinum.

Aside from fouled plugs and a cylinder misfire, you'll know the plugs need changed when the engine is stuttering under load, or in too high gear, or has a choppy idle.

More: the link below is a great resource on spark plugs, and includes a picture chart to diagnose common engine/plug problems.<ul><li><a href="http://www.aa1car.com/library/sprkplg2.htm">Spark Plug info</a></li></ul>

B56

This procedure describes the steps I used to change the transmission fluid in a B5 quattro Tiptronic transmission. If you choose to follow this, I am not responsible if you damage your car in any way...
You will need the following to complete the job:

- 7 liters of Audi transmission fluid. I used the Pentosin brand which has the same part number and its cheaper, about $12 a bottle.
- 1 Auto trans Filter and gasket, about $30.
- VAG-COM-not totally necessary but very helpful!!
- 17mm Hex-fill plug
- 8mm Hex-drain plug
- T-27-pan bolts
- T-45-filter bolts
- 6 feet of 3/4inch hose to fill the pan with
- Marine outboard pump, $6 at West Marine. The pump is optional. You could just use a funnel and gravity feed the fluid, but for 6 bucks, you can be on the ground and see what's happening.


Drain Procedure
1. Raise the car up on Jack stands. Try to get it as level as possible.
<img src="http://images30.fotki.com/v1038/fileIseb/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1797.jpg">

2. With the engine off, open the fill plug (17mm Hex). Make sure you have a drain pan underneath because fluid will drain out.

3. Next, open drain plug (8mm Hex) and let fluid drain.

4. Remove transmission pan bolts (T-27). Remove pan and clean thoroughly. I used brake cleaner. Be sure to remove and clean the magnets in the bottom of the pan. They will have "wear metals" stuck to them. This is normal unless your magnets look like a giant Porcupine
<img src="http://images31.fotki.com/v1055/fileqSK0/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1793.jpg">

5. Remove filter bolts (T-45) and remove old filter.
<img src="http://images30.fotki.com/v1038/fileZBpJ/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1794.jpg">

6. Let car sit overnight and drain. I did this because you want to fill the transmission when it's at ambient temperature. Not much fluid drained overnight. So if you car has been sitting and is totally cold, you don't have to wait overnight.

7. Install new filter (54 inch-lbs / 6 N-m).

8. Install clean transmission pan. Tighten in a star pattern (84 in-lbs / 10 Nm). Before mounting the pan, I decided to fix my oil fill hose. Some people have created an end piece out of copper tubing and installed the hose after mounting the pan. I didn't want to risk anything getting stuck. So this time it was easy for me to pull out!
<img src="http://images30.fotki.com/v1038/file6eEQ/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1800.jpg">

9. install drain plug (30 ft-lbs / 40 Nm)


Fill Procedure

1. With car off, pump fluid until it overflows from standpipe. I used the marine outboard pump. I just cut off the metal screw piece on the end and stuck it into the 3/4hose. I also used an empty and cleaned gallon container from a bottle of distilled water. I poured about 3.5 liters of fresh trans fluid into the container so I wouldn't have to keep changing bottles during the fill process.
<img src="http://images32.fotki.com/v1044/fileTalW/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1798.jpg">

2. Start car, wait 30 seconds, pump more fluid until it overflows. When the engine is running, the transmission pump draws fluid up into all the gears. That's why when you initially opened the fill plug, fluid drains out.
<img src="http://images30.fotki.com/v1038/file631R/9bb73/1/1251546/5603517/DCP_1801.jpg">

3. Have someone run through all gears for 30 seconds each with foot on the brake. Go through R,N,D,4,3,2 for 30 seconds each. Keep pumping fluid so there is a slight overflow at all times. Let the car run for 2 minutes, repeat the process and keep pumping fluid!

4. After engine has been running for 15 minutes, use a VAG and measure ATF Temp in Group 4 under measuring blocks in the transmission module. ATF fluid temp should be around 30-45deg C. If you don't have a VAG-COM, I suppose you could just wait for 15 minutes. I waited until the VAG read the fluid temp at 38deg C.

5. With engine still running, pump additional fluid until you see some overflow and then Install fill plug (59 ft-lbs / 80 Nm). It is important for the engine to be running while you install the fill plug. If you turn the engine off, all the fluid that was sucked up will drain out and you will then have a transmission that is under filled.

6. Test drive and enjoy prolonged Tip life and smooth shifts!

Feel free to email me with questions/comments about the job!

wiinky

<center><img src="http://home.comcast.net/~zydy1/Audi/Audi-vac-line.jpg"></center><p>
Traced Vac lines and found a section of braided hose that was frayed/broken. Referring to Bentley's A4 service manual, page L24-20: Bad line originates at Intake Manifold Tuning Value (N156) and ends at the vacuum solenoid for Intake Manifold Tuning, located under ignition coils. The braided section that ends that run was brochen.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2423308.phtml">Also see: Definitive guide to fixing secondary air injection incorrect flow detected problems.</a></li></ul>

Living Dissed

If you know what you're doing:
1. Empty the glovebox
2. On either side of the glovebox, just above the hinges, are two spring-loaded catches. Push back the levers, and allow the glovebox to drop.
3. The Cruise Control Module is above the glovebox space, held in by a single 8mm head screw on the side closest to the passenger.

For better access to the module:
Remove the glovebox. However, to remove the glovebox, you have to remove the center console, and to remove the center console, you have to remove the armrest console.

Living Dissed

The high point on the system is the heater core, which is above the filler cap for the reservoir. Because the port is above the reservoir filler, the Bentley manual says to use an extender/funnel "tool," which screws into the reservoir filler opening and makes the top of the tool the high point. I didn't have the tool, but it was able to remove the three screws holding the tank, and lift the tank the 10-cm/4-inches required until the opening was the high point.

With the reservoir raised, the second point to burp is the heater core return. The heater core pipes rest between the battery and the brake-fluid resevoir. On a system with original hoses, the hose closest to the battery should have a small hole in its top. With the engine running, loosen this clamp, and slide the hose off the pipe until this small port is exposed. When fluid dribbles out, push it back on, and tighten the clamp. The torque called out in the Bentley manual is very small.

Now you should be able to reinstall the reservoir tank with its three screws.

Living Dissed

The Audi cooling system has dissimilar metals. Over time they will corrode, and small grains of metal will clog the system. These grains of sediment can be removed by backflushing.

Buy two lengths of hose, each over a meter long and between 32mm and 1 1/4 inch inner diameter. If you buy clear hose, you can see what's coming out of the pipes.

To one of the hoses, attach an adapter for your garden hose.

Remove the upper engine cover.

Remove the cap to the coolant reservoir, and drain the coolant from the system.

On the upper passenger side of the radiator mount, remove the two phillips-head screws holding the air intake to the radiator mount. Remove the air snorkel running from the radiator mount to the air-filter box.

On the passenger-front of the engine, identify the hoses which direct water to the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing will have two hoses, a larger one connected to the radiator, and a smaller one pointed towards the airbox - you want the smaller one.

Loosen the hose clamp from the nipple, being careful to hold onto the clamp so when it's loose it doesn't drop down the hose and you have to fish it out.

Lightly clamp closed the open end of the hose - a tight seal is not critical, you just want resistance. Alternatively, an old wine cork might be used as a plug.

Attach the feed line from your garden hose to the exposed nipple.

On the upper driver side of the radiator mount, remove the upper hose from the radiator.

Turn on the flow of water from the garden hose. The cold water will shut the thermostat, and water will flow back into the radiator and out the upper opening. If you hold a strainer under the line, you will probably find a small amount of rust and corrosion flakes.

Reattach the upper radiator hose. Stock Audi radiator hoses have a white marking showing how to orient the clamp, but these markings are for assembly, not for backflushing. It's likely you'll be flushing the system more often than you'll be rebuilding, so use orientations to make things easy for yourself.

Above the firewall, the pipes for the heater core are located between the battery and brake booster.

The passenger-side hose of the heater core returns water from the interior to the engine.
The driver-side hose feeds water from the back of the engine to the heater.

Remove the driver-side hose from the heater core.

Lightly clamp closed the open end of the hose - a tight seal is not critical, you just want resistance. Another old wine cork might be used.

Attach a hose to the heater feed line, sufficiently long to direct water away from the engine bay.

Turn on the flow of water from the garden hose. Water will flow through the engine, through the heater core, and out the feed pipe. If you hold a strainer under the line, you will probably find a small amount of rust and corrosion flakes.

Remove your backflush hose, and reattach the heater-core feed line.

Remove the garden-hose lead from the thermostat housing.

Reattach the feed line to the thermostat housing.

Refill and burp the system

Living Dissed

Burping starts at the second-lowest opening on the system. On the six cylinder (I'm not sure about the fours), the second-lowest opening is a port where water comes out of the back of the engine. Each of the cylinder banks has a water-passage exit on the side closest to the firewall. The side above the passenger's footwell has an opening for one of the temperature sensors. The side above the driver's footwell has an opening with a 5-mm allen-head bleed screw.

To get to this driver's-side bleed screw, you have to remove the engine cover and the driver's-side rear-most sparkplug wire. The bleed-hole opening is tilted towards the front of the car, and is in direct line of sight with the connector end of the sparkplug. If you shine a light in there, you should see an opening about the size of an American dime, with a 5-mm allen hole in the center.

The first time I tried, this screw didn't want to turn - dissimilar metals and a water environment. I soaked it in penetrating oil, waited overnight, and the next day was able to turn it.

The screw is cleverly designed, with one flat side, so you don't have to remove it. You loosen the screw, and air is able to travel along the flat side to atmosphere. If the cap is off the resevoir, loosen the screw, wait until fluid runs out the port (a few seconds), then tighten it back down. Sounds easy, except I had to use all my ratchet extenders to get to the plug. Once finished, you can replace the sparkplug wire and engine cover.

The high point on the system is the heater core, which is above the filler cap for the reservoir. Because the port is above the reservoir filler, the Bentley manual says to use an extender/funnel "tool," which screws into the reservoir filler opening and makes the top of the tool the high point. I didn't have the tool, but it was able to remove the three screws holding the tank, and lift the tank the 10-cm/4-inches required until the opening was the high point.

With the reservoir raised, the second point to burp is the heater core return. The heater core pipes rest between the battery and the brake-fluid resevoir. On a system with original hoses, the hose closest to the battery should have a small hole in its top. With the engine running, loosen this clamp, and slide the hose off the pipe until this small port is exposed. When fluid dribbles out, push it back on, and tighten the clamp. The torque called out in the Bentley manual is very small.

Now you should be able to reinstall the reservoir tank with its three screws.