A4 (2001) Rear Window Regulator Replacement (lengthy)

[ThreeDogsA4]

I replaced the driver's side rear passenger window regulator the other day after it refused to go all the way up, or down for that matter. I could not find a good procedure online, but followed Dan Larson's Window Guide Replacemnt procedure and used the Bently Manual.

I give this as advice and you're on your own if you attempt any repairs to your car.

What you'll need: Window Regulator (part no. varies by door location)
Torx sockets or wrenches:
T-25
T-30
T-45
Phillips-head screwdriver
Rivets (rivet gun) and/or nuts & bolts hardware (appropriate wrenches) for reinstallation

1. Remove interior door trim
a. First remove the two screws on either side at the top of the trim:

b. Remove the screw inside the hand grip:


2. Remove plastic insert and then the screw behind it. Be careful when removing the insert - use a screwdriver wrapped in a rag so as not to damage the trim.


3. Pull trim straight up and once it's clear of the door lock, pull toward you. Next, pull back the foam insulation and find the window switch, disconnect the switch and pull it out of the door:


4. At the bottom inside corner, pull back the foam again and find the blue electrical connection for the door light. Disconnect this.


5. Other interior connections:
a. This connects to the door release handle - you'll have to pull back the foam again after you've disconnect the window switch (see above) and pull this out. On re-installation make sure the hook POINTS UPWARD.
b. This is for the door lock - use a needle nose pliers to remove this from the plastic clip - be careful of the clip.
c. Electrical connection for the window motor. Disconnect.
d. Four Torx T-45 screws which hold the door component carrier to the door. Remove these. Watch for the shim on the interior lower screw - you need this for reinstallation.


6. Remove the door component carrier: Clear any remaining cables which may be connected by zip ties or clips and lieft straight up on the carrier - gently to avoid snagging any cables or wires. It comes right out.

7. The component carrier removed and we see the offending window regulator.
a. Unscrew the two Torx T-25 screws holding the window to the regulator. Remove the window by carefully sliding it out.
b. These four rivets will have to be drilled out. I started with a relatively small bit and the moved up to a 7/32" to remove the rivets.


As a sidenote, here we see the cable at the top of the regulator - notice it is not taunt and appears frayed in spots:



8. Remove the window motor by taking out the three Torx T-30 screws.


See how the regulator cable is tangled and the wheel is caked in grease:


The motor with the wheel removed:


The motor with the cradle from the regulator removed (a new cradle and wheel are included with the new regulator):


9. Here is the new regulator installed. You will notice the two nuts at the bottom of the picture - I do not like rivets, and if I have to do this again in another 80k miles, I want to be able to take it apart! I used a 1/4" drill bit to enlarge the holes in the frame and regulator and then used an M6 hex screw, nut, washer and locking washer. There is one location in which you will have to use a rivet, you will know it...
The motor mounts back onto the cradle with the three T-30 screws.


10. The regulator installed, with window, from the other side.


11. Next, reinstall carrier and connect power to the motor and try the window switch. If this works, then reassemble the rest of the door trim and you're done!

[BSK]

[pipebender]

[TwentyValveB5+S4]

[BSK]

[ThreeDogsA4]

I would have liked to have posted this in the Tech section, but didn't see any way to submit a tech article directly...

[Andy_FL]

[Andy_FL]

I was unpleasantly surprised to find the 3 holes for the window motor bolts untapped. Apparently, this was a bad batch. I ordered from GermanAutoParts but who knows how many parts places are using this particular source. So, just a heads up to check the holes before you start -- in case you need to go buy a tap! I ended up buying an ultra cheapo metric set from HarborFreight -- but it worked! It was an M6-.75 tap. Some pics:

NEW mounting plate holes for window motor bolts:


OLD part:


Bolt and tap used:



Andy