Time for Brake Pads...suggestions???

[mishar]

Prices for A8 and S8 OEM rotors are the same. Weird since S8's are 1" bigger diameter. I always use OEM pads too. Carbon dust is there for the reason. It keeps rotor surface hard and ware resistant. Just think of it this way: dusty wheels = racing cars. It helps to hate dust less. P.S. Guys are paying for spoilers to get that racy look.

[MP4.2+6.0]

Here's the last thread a D3 forum page and a half down with the same usual questions and variety of answers:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=24294870

Here's another one, also on the next forum page now, where the horse has been flogged and flogged, and it just keeps coming back for more beatings:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=23929885

For the OP, read up on those for lots of content, info and opinions.

More specifically to the contents of this newest post journey so far: I have a W12 which has the identical set up to the S8 for rotor and pad sizes. See my other many prior thread responses, netting to:

• yes EBC's are way less dust than Audi OEM;
• both EBC and Audi OEM perform well, from successive switches in both directions;
• have run both slotted and drilled and plain back to back and it's all fine (it's more an appearance thing per the first cross post above that was more candid about it);
• I have had both the drilled and the plain resurfaced along the way (optionally I would confirm);
• in mixed suburban driving my expected wear to min spec on either rotor set will be in the 70K mile range from micrometer measurements at the refinish point and then accumulated miles;
• my pad cycle on both EBC's and OEM has been slightly over 30K miles on the W12; I usually change them shortly before light would likely go on and after dealer is already saying I need brakes soon; and
• surprising to me from my other many Audis, on the W12 the rears wear nearly as fast as the fronts so I have tended to just do all together.

If you wade into my historical post on W12 (S8) brakes embedded in my auto sig, a nuance to EBC's relevant to S8's and W12's is that EBC has only one pad that covers the W12, S8 AND 4.2's with the given front rotor size (360mm I think ??, but not the 385mm W12/S8 size). They pretend its specific, but it comes back to the same pad number for all three motors.That's not too surprising since the caliper unit is the same basic Ate, but with larger piston diameters in the S8/W12. Audi uses a different part number for the S8 and W12 OEM pads. Having compared them side by side and done the calcs (documented in my old post), the swept area actually goes up a little bit with the EBC's relative to the Audi OE W12/S8 specific pads because they hit just a measurable bit further out on the 385 mm rotor than do the OE Audi pads--means a little less outer rotor ridge during the wear cycle and a little more inner. I watched this carefully early on with the EBC fitment since I could see the backplate to pad difference and all was fine. The rear W12/S8 pads cross over directly to the C5 RS6, so they have actually been around for years now. Since my original post BTW, other rotor choices have come along. Comes up in the other recent posts linked above.

[Joe_M]

Really appreciate all the help guys. I have settled on the ebc reds with the stock rotors. It sounds like that will give me the best combo of performance and low dust without risking the chance of problems with drilled and/or slotted.

Just to be clear, as I was a little confused with the 365mm vs 380mm. The pads that ebc recommends when I fill out make and model year is correct, right?

Front: Part Number: DP31535C
Rear: Part Number: DP31470C

Also, the link that Mishar posted for oem rotors...are these 100% authentic Audi parts...the same as the dealer would order???

As far as doing the front on my own...I'm leaning this way. Is there a good DIY thread on this somewhere that I'm missing? Also debating painting the calipers while I have access to them...suggestion and/or DIY thread?

[mishar]

Originally Posted by Joe_M

Also, the link that Mishar posted for oem rotors...are these 100% authentic Audi parts...the same as the dealer would order???

They are a dealership. Won't hurt if you ask them that question.

[MP4.2+6.0]

Not at home for a while, but the front # sounds familiar. If you pull the same number for the W12 (6.0) motor, that's the right one. On the rears, it should also be the same number for the W12 motor as well as the 2003 Audi RS6 in the rear.

Front rotor size on the S8 is 385mm, not 380. I think the optional Euro only ceramic rotors might be 380mm, or a Brembo BBK, but the stock USA D3 S8 rotor size is always 385mm.

Fronts straight forward to change. Rears require VAG-COM, which is the one thing that makes them more complicated/convoluted. Needed to open the brakes up for pad change and also to reset the parking brake, which all overlaps with calibrating the rears for the way it keeps track of rear pad wear. Not aware of any posts about how to's of painting D3 calipers, beyond ones like mine that are more individual project reports. To do it really well, its a fair amount of work. From using both brush and spray, spray gives a better result, but again with a fair amount of prep and off the car to really do it well. If you go with simple, just paint the pad retainer clip that often rusts. If you want to dress it up, embed some decals and clear coat them. The clip side is quite visible, so you can get a cleaned up look with some low to moderate effort on the clip only. You can also quickly spray paint the center rotor hat area if you wire brush it clean. Also tends to discolor or rust a bit in that area.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Another option you may wont to consider is Hawk Ceramic pads.

Ceramic brake pads are one of the newest innovations in the automotive aftermarket. With decades in the motorsports arena, ceramic braking components have been tested and abused. Hawk Performance brings this technology to your daily driver with a set of Performance Ceramic brake pads.

The benefits of ceramic brake components are vastly superior to the traditional metal compound pad. Because ceramic does not absorb heat as rapidly, heavy braking in hot conditions will keep your brakes from fading. With a much higher co-efficient of friction, stopping distances are reduced as stopping power is increased. Also, because of their lower metal content, brake dust is all but eliminated. All of this comes with the added benefit of drastically increased brake rotor life.


Click HERE to order or for more information.



Let me know if you have any questions.

Jason

[Brozee]

I have heard great things about hawk pads but never tried them. When I was on a lot of other forums in the past, a few nissan, and subaru forums, many members swore by these. This is also a good choice, I would say the other direct aftermarket choice besides EBC's.

Problem is, sorry ECS, but on the pads for the A8 you guy's dont list the front pads. While on amazon, here is the fronts for only $95 http://www.amazon.com/2005-2010-QUAT...7114982&sr=1-3 you can find them for free shipping on other automotive websites..

Again, ECS tuning you (ecstuning.com)charge $15 shipping on brake pads for the rear that cost $66; 22% of the price of the pads. Sorry but in this day and age especially 2010 onwards, paying more than $5.99 shipping is crazy..

[Joe_M]

So the reds and the rotors are on the way. Dealer is charging $280 per axle f($560 total )or install. Seems ridiculous to me so I'm definately doing the fronts myself.

Thanks again for the help fellas!!!

[Brozee]

Why the dealer lmao!! I stay away from the dealer like its the plague. Unless I'm having a recall or warranty work done F them. Next time always go indy shop. As for the fronts do them yourself like you said or have any garage mechanic do them for you for less tahn $60.

As for the rears you have no choice but you could have always gone indy shop and had them installed for $100 like I did.

[Brozee]

As I'm getting my ross-tech cable tomorrow. I saw on the ross-tech wiki that in order to change rear pads you have to open up the rear parking brake. (I knew this already). My question is, it says you have to hook up your car to a battery charger, is this true?!?!
Going to do a rear pad change in roughly 5k+ and I'm guessing all you do is turn ignition on, go into vcds, open up the parking brake, save. turn off car. Then repeat to close the parking brake as well as change pad thickness. Correct?