My 1985 4000 turbo quattro project

[Rogviler]

Thanks! Having a welder is definitely the best thing to happen to my automotive project life, even though all I could afford at the time was a flux welder. Nothing wrong with it, I just won't be posting any "roll of dimes" shots to brag about. :P The best welding technique for body panels is probably acetylene, so if you can master that you'll be able to do pretty much anything. TIG is pretty but expensive. Learn them all if you can. I still remember the first time my dad handed me a stick welder when I was a kid and told me to try it. I haven't needed to use a stick since, but it got me to understand how it all works. Learning how to weld sheet metal with a flux welder is a great trial by fire though. There's a great DVD out there all about how to use basic hand tools to do master-level metal work. He also prefers acetylene welding (and makes it look easy): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 -Rog

[westco4K]

Looking good as usuall! Glad to see some progress on the 4k too. Not like you havn't been busy with other stuff. . . But seriously, get that thing fired up so it'll motivate me on my turbo swap! lol

[Rogviler]

One of the few remaining things I needed to figure out was the throttle cable. I decided to get the Ur-Quattro one just to see what it's like. It's still available new as of right now. That part number is 857 721 555.

Here's a comparison between the 4kq one (top) and the Ur-Q:



As you can see, the only difference is length. The ends are identical. Only the cable (and sheathing) is longer:



So a couple ways to get the same thing cheaply...

One would be to cut the throttle end off of the 5000/200 one and graft it on to the 4000's, making sure to measure so you're adding the correct length for your application. I imagine you can get some small enough crimp-on cable connectors to do this, just make sure it's not going to bind anywhere. The other way would be to splice a short length of small steel cable into the 4000's cable. You're looking at about 6" in difference, so not much but enough to make it impossible with just the stock cable.

Also, the accelerator pedal end of the 5000/200 cable is different, which is why you can't just use it. I don't have a pic, but it wouldn't work as it is. You could graft the 4000's hook on to this end. That would be a solution that nobody would ever see.

In the end, I like the Ur-Q part the best since it's easy and will look stock (and it's easy to get), but there are definitely other ways of doing it.

-Rog

[Rogviler]

Now for the tie rod...

I happened across a pair of tie rods, one of which was already bent to fit around our little wastegate problem (see previous page). Also see previous page for advice on bending your own.

So here's a comparison between the stock rod (top) and the bent one (bottom):



I'm not sure who made it. The seller thought it was from 2Bennett, and it certainly looks like the type the make, but there's no identification. It was cheap enough that I don't care. At any rate, something interesting to note is that it looks like they started with a straight tie rod, rather than the squiggly stock one. It almost looks like a driver side rod, but it's quite a bit shorter.

Starting with a straight one will definitely get you more clearance, but I don't know what it would be from. Perhaps a cousin in the VW family?

You can definitely use the stock passenger side tie rod. Just make sure you are able to check the clearance after you bend it and bend it more if necessary.

Not yet installed because the dumb little stud that connects the rod to the steering rack stripped out the tiny little grooves that hold it in. What did they think was going to happen?? Off to the hardware store yet again to get a plain old bolt that WORKS.

-Rog

[Rogviler]

Sweet, sweet clearance...



Compare to the stock tie rod:



-Rog

[AudiCoupeGT1986]

Rog,

This is looking great! I've started to gather parts for my 10vt swap on my 86 CGT as well.

If you wouldn't mind, could you make a list of URQ parts required for this swap to work?

I know the swap is doable without them but I want to make this swap as clean as possible.

Cheers and keep it up!

Tarpan

[Rogviler]

Thanks!

There are kind of two ways to go... A complete Ur-Q conversion, or using Ur-Q parts to fill in some of the harder stuff.

Either way, in order to do no cutting or fabricating of special parts, I would say:

-The "igloo"
-Throttle cable

If you want to do a total Ur-Q job you'll want the above, plus:

-The passenger tie rod and strut assembly*
-Intercooler and piping
-The aluminum airbox

The tie rod can be done as I showed above, either buying a replacement for the 4kq one or bending it. I also think you can get a much better intercooler setup simply using a $50 single-pass from eBay. It's not as easy to get it to fit, but I'd be surprised if it didn't offer better cooling.

The airbox is also optional, as you can cut the nonsense off the 4kq one and fill in the blanks with sheet metal (and cut the front open of course). If you wrap it with some heat shielding, nobody will ever know. I forgot that I need to take pictures of this as it's what I've done...

*I've often wondered if swapping choice Ur-Q suspension parts would be an easy 5-lug conversion. Anyone seen it? I realize that it's easier to find engine parts as people do 20vt swaps and the like, and probably a lot fewer relegated to "total junk" status, but it would be nice to know.

-Rog

[Rogviler]

Finally remembered to take a picture of this...

Here's what the 4kq airbox looks like with all the junk cut off and the hole filled with sheet metal:





It takes some creative shaping, but it's all boxed in. I do need to seal the seams, and then it will get wrapped in its own heat blanket (which is why I didn't worry too much about how pretty it looks).

Then just cut the front as open as you want. The bigger the hole the louder it will be at full throttle.

Seeing how much junk you can clear out, I'd do this even if I still had the stock engine.

-Rog

[Rogviler]

In case anyone's interested, these are the wheels I just put on my '84:



They are 15x6 ET33 Saab 14-spokes. They seem somewhat rare, but if you can find them I think they're a nice look, almost an "innie" version of the stock ones. They're cone seat, so make sure you get the proper lugs. I didn't personally have any issues with them centering themselves, so you can go without hub centric rings unless you have trouble with that.

Now the stock wheels from that car can go on my project here. Honestly I have all the stuff to finish this car, but with small kids it's hard to find the time AND energy...

-Rog

[mixtery]

Originally Posted by Rogviler

I thought I've move this project here to liven things up a little. It'll be easier to update since it won't be buried constantly.

So I picked this car up cheap, intending to use it for parts, but it turned out to be a lot more solid than I thought so I decided to fix it up instead.



Fairly nice interior:



The hood is the only really funky part of the body, so I decided to turn it into a fake Sport Quattro hood.



I'll probably post more about that when I dig into it. I've finally finished the three grille panel for the front and I'm currently contemplating the louvers for the area above the turbo...

When I got the car it would start but ran really poorly. I couldn't press the gas at all or it would die. I think part of the problem was the cracked intake boot:



Fixing that got it running better, but it was still really rough.
-Rog

Nice work! My boot is torn in the same place can you let me know how you repaired the boot rip?