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| A8 / S8 (D3 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the D3 Audi A8 produced from 2003-2010 and Audi S8 produced from 2006-2010 |
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#1 | ||
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AudiWorld Member
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin
Posts: 134
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Last edited by A8nightmare; 08-01-2011 at 12:33 AM. |
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#2 | |
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AudiWorld Member
2005 Audi A8Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 589
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I'll update if I get a 'thump' or 'silence'...
![]() K9 Quote:
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#3 |
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AudiWorld Member
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 166
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I solved this as well by just taking the motor and the wind deflector out. PM me if you need diagrams on how to take it out/in as there are adjustments when putting the wind deflector back in.
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#4 |
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AudiWorld Member
2005 Audi A8Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 589
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So, just worked on mine. A few pointers (sorry it's so long....)
1) When taking out the interior light lenses (opaque) to gain access to the torx screws to release the console, they are 'handed' so note who goes where (part #'s on them) for easy install. As 'nightmare' said, a knife blade behind the leading edge and gently pull downwards. They hinge on tabs at the trailing (rear) short edge of the white light lenses.... 2) Allow a lot of time for this job as it's fiddly, and time consuming. 3) If you work with the sunroof open, when you release the motor from the 'gearbox' (More on that later), the wind deflector actuator arms (plastic parts moved by the motor inside the console cavity in the roof) will 'snap' to their default position, allowing light into the now open console cavity as they unblock a hole between the two (sunroof aperture and console cavity). This can be a little disconcerting, but just remember that when you reinstall the motor, the gearbox, and hence the actuator arms, need to be in the correct position, i.e. fully down. With the roof open, stick your head out, push down the sprung wind deflector (it's free moving) and then carefully move down the actuator arms. If the gearbox is still in (motor out), they'll move together. This now 'presents' the gearbox in the correct gear position inside to accept the motor for re-installation You'll run out of hands and probably joints in your fingers at this point. Maybe an assistant in a sparkly swimsuit would help at this juncture... 4) Now, to that motor removal and install. As 'nightmare' stated, the motor is held in by a metal clip, kind of like the Greek 'sigma' symbol in design. The two ends clip onto tiny and fragile tabs on the 'gearbox'. To remove, use a pick to carefully ease the end of the clip off the tab on the side closest to you. That will allow the clip to 'hinge' on the other tab, but you don't really want that. Once the clip is off, remove the motor and pack the gearbox with grease. 5) To reinstall the clip that holds the motor in: There are two groves, one on each side on the motor in the black plastic strips between the aluminium casing, running front front to back along the axis of the motor, and they accept the flat sides of the clip. The middle of the clip is that shape for a reason. Slide it onto the motor, then hold the side closest to you flat against the motor, but not trying to get it to clip on the tab, and push the raised/angled part of the end of the other side of the clip. There is a little 'ramp' on the leading edge of the tab on the gearbox that assists the clip into place. Now repeat for the side nearest you. It is one monumental PITA to do, so be careful. I actually took the gearbox out of my car to do it, to see how the clip worked (2 x t10 torx screws, one inside the console cavity, one on the front edge of the sunroof aperture, to remove the gear box). 6) I wouldn't recommend taking the gearbox out, as it only re-installs one way, the crank has to be in exactly the right position, you can't install it with the motor attached, and the arms that raise the wind deflector are actually independent of each other without the gearbox installed, so they have to be aligned correctly to accept the gearbox back in.. There is so much danger of breakage, lost teeeny screws, and mal-adjustments, that I just wouldn't recommend it. 7) Mine still makes the same noise of course , I may need some thicker grease, but I'm not convinced half the noise isn't just resonance through the hollow plastic housing it's all attached to.I did take some pics, and I'll stick them on here if anyone wants them (PM me). I would advise to look at pics carefully before you tackle this job, and also, you have to really want that noise gone to want to F with it. K9
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Last edited by K9COP; 09-02-2012 at 06:03 AM. Reason: typos to correct before Jake spots them... |
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#5 |
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AudiWorld Senior Member
Garage is empty, add now
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 841
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I had the same thought about resonance, because the noise in my car was only diminished but not eliminated by the 'fix'. If I get ambitious enough I will pull the console and stick a bit or two of noise deadning material on the outside of the plastic case that houses the gears.
Also dont know if I got enough grease in the case...dont know how much is too much. Should I have filled it ? An with what ? I used silicon grease, I know it needs not to be petroleum based since the gears are plastic. And it needs to be heat stable grease that wont turn to a liquid and run out into my headliner. Anyone know the correct product for this application ? By the way, I solved my 'THUMP' problem by following the initialization procedure some one posted. Thankyou.
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2004 A8 L 4.2 Platinum Beige w/ Amaretto Maple Copper GmbH Exclusive wood trim Alcantara Headliner/Extended Leather Rear Climate Control & Lumbar Ventilated & Massage Seats MFSW Shift Paddle upgrade W12 Rear bumper upgrade Dual Tray Tables Illuminated sills DVD Headrests Security Glass Refrigerator AMI XM BT |
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| Tags |
| 2004, 2007, a5, a8, audi, cabriolet, deflector, disconnect, fix, fixed, loud, motor, noise, sunroof, wind |
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, I may need some thicker grease, but I'm not convinced half the noise isn't just resonance through the hollow plastic housing it's all attached to.

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