skibs

Ok folks need some info and help here...

My girlfriend owns a 2002 Audi A6 quattro with a 2.7T twin turbos and an automatic transmission. She has owned the car for 2 yrs and bought it with 85000 miles. It now has 125000 miles and the service records from previous owner(s) are not available.

At least one turbo (driver side) has blown an oil line and she drove it like that for a few miles. Upon inspection I found considerable deposit of oil in the lower air intake lines before the coolers...more on drivers side than passenger, but oil in both lines either way.

Here's the deal. I'm a former mechanic from many years ago and while I would not describe myself as a "professional" I have done a number of engine rebuilds, replacements; trans replacements etc... My garage has a lift and I have more mechanical tools than a few garages out there. Generally speaking I rarely take my vehicles to have them repaired since I do the vast majority of work myself.

Having said that I've never been well versed in Audi/Volkswagon line. In this instance I am aware that in order to replace these turbos I will have to remove the drive train and I realize that it'll prob come out the bottom of the vehicle based on the model and design. I've reviewed a very in-depth turbo replacement write-up on an S4 with apparently 2 wheel drive trans. Article was comprehensive and very helpful. However I'd really like to review the same thing which is specific to this vehicle with the all wheel drive/automatic trans options.

I cannot seem to find this online nor any publication which covers the work. The Bentley publications manual I got on the car has helpful information in it, but it does not cover engine/drive train removal and repair.

Additionally, I've searched for the turbo's and find different ones that seem to apply to the same vehicle/part(s). How do I insure that what I order will actually be identical to the parts I am replacing? I'm not looking to R&R anything that is not stock. Neither of us are race car drivers we just want the daily driver back on the road as we are both very fond of the vehicle.

While in the middle of this repair I intend to replace the front struts, driver side CV shaft since the boot is ripped, the water pump and the timing belt. Anything else I should replace while I'm up to my elbows in this? Would rather do this only once!

Looking for any input on referance materials, manuals, personal suggestions and experienced folks with suggestions.

Thanks

Tuppidsay

All the formal publications are going to tell you how to do the engine "audi's" way. Which is the motor itself out the top. I've found that on any audi we've done at my shop, it's easiest to put the car on a lift or jack stands, remove the from end, core supports etc, like your doing a timing belt. Dissconnect all the axles and prop shafts, undo the exhaust at the clamps around the middle of the car, undo the shift cable on the side of the transmission, open the e-box and dissconect all the electrical from the computer and ground studs near the shock towers, this will allow the harness to come with the motor. Remove the heater core hoses by the fire wall and feed them through the grommet in the bottom of the plenum chamber. Remove the power steering, ac pump, alternator, various lines and hoses on each side of the engine, then hold up the engine with a engine hoist and lower the sub frames no need to disconnect from the wheels, undo the 4 motor/tranny mounts from the subframe and drag engine trans and exhaust out the front of the car. I first learned this method from a video on youtube. it hasn't failed me yet and we always beat book time.

ryan_qttro

Audi's way is not out the top. It is removing front end and dropping engine and trans as one unit on a hydraulic table

Prospeeder

yea i pull the front end off, and then just pull the engine out straight forward. You can leave the trans attached if desired. Subframe must be removed. Really you could do the turbo swaps with the engine installed. Just support it and remove the subframe and it should be accessible.

Bergelvis

I recently pulled one out the front, like Prospeeder and Tuppidsay mentioned. I didn't need to remove the subframe though. Things are easy to work on when the engine's out.

awdjunkies

Not sure if you guys have seen this video but, it definitely is easier to familiarize yourself with the product once it is visible. At least for me it is. http://vimeo.com/5238276

Alex Webb

Hey whats up man, I have a question and I think you can help me. I own a 2003 Audi A6 2.7t tip tranny, and everything is stock, i put in a cold air intake. Well, I put in a stage 3 ECU well tried too, and my car didnt want to start, it would turn over but didnt start. We hooked it up to a revotechnik and it didnt tell us what was wrong. But we took it out and put the OEM one back in and it ran fine. Can you progress me through steps or things i need to do for my stage 3 ECU? Thanks.

awdjunkies

Welcome to AudiWorld. First of all, Cold air intakes do nothing for the allroad of Turbocharged vehicles in general, as you may want to look up "DARIntake" the stock box is good for up to 400 hp I believe. Second of all, why go with a stage 3 ECU when you don't have the hardware to back it up? Also what company is the stage 3 ECU?
Either way, upgrading should be done(For the safety of the engine and tranny) as follows:
Stage 1 = ECU Chip (Revo/APR/JHM/ etc..)
Stage 2 = Chip + Catback
Stage 2+ = Chip, Catback + Downpipes
Stage 3- = add ko4/FT turbos
Stage 3 = add fueling(injectors/fpr/ecu)


You can also find this info. as here: http://www.audizine.com/wiki/index.p...S4#Chip_Tuning .. Another great site is www.allroadfaq.com

Tuppidsay

By what you are saying it sounds like the chipped ecu is a second ecu? If it is, that is probably your problem. The second ecu doesn't have your immobilizer data. The cluster sends a code to the ecu when the right key is inserted to enable fuel and spark. I don't think they can be reprogrammed to a cluster. Maybe someone else will chime in.