vwong

**edited 6/6/2011 for correction on the tool used for drain plug**

**edited for corrections, thanks to dr bryan for pointing out my errors**

I searched around to see if there is a DIY on oil change specifically for the B8 S4 (found one for the A5 3.2, which is similar). Unfortunately, there isn't any at the moment. Therefore, I decided to create one. BTW, some pictures below turned out to be blurry.

Disclaimer: The info below is my procedures on an oil change. I will not be held responsible for any injuries you may cause from your own action.

Tools required:
- ramps
- large Phillip (or large flat-head) screwdriver
- 6mm allen wrench
- 36mm socket or large adj. wrench
- 1/2" drive ratchet (used with 32mm socket)
- needle nose pliers
- lots of towels
- drain pan
- funnel

Parts required:
- 8 quarts of oil (the pic below only shows 7 quarts only)
- oil filter


First, warm up the engine a little bit. Then drive up to a set of car ramps. You can purchase those car ramps from your local auto parts store. I just happen to have a set of custom built ramps from the days of my lowered Prelude. After driving up to a set of car ramps, just for precaution, put something behind the rear tire to prevent the car from rolling back.


Remove the lower engine cover, belly pan, whatever you call this thing. There are 11 lock screws (3 in the back, 2 in the front, and 3 on each side just in front of the tire). Use either a large Phillip screwdriver or a large flat-head screwdriver to undo those screws. The 3 screw in the back stay with the lower engine cover, so don't waste time trying to remove them off the cover. Then set the cover aside.


Now you can see the oil pan. The drain bolt is located on the bottom of the oil pan. Put the drain pan under the drain bolt. Use a 6mm allen wrench to loosen it. Because of the orientation of the drain bolt, it's very messy. It's recommended to put lots of newspaper on the floor under the area to absorb any oil that doesn't end up in the drain pan.




While letting the old oil drain, remove the filter/filter cap. It is located on the top toward the firewall. Make sure you put some towels around the filter cap to catch the oil. Use a 36mm socket and ratchet to undo the cap. If you don't have a 36mm socket, you can use a large adj. wrench.




Here is the old oil filter still installed in the filter cap.


Here is the new oil filter, o-rings, and crush washer.


After separating the old filter from the cap, replace the o-ring in the cap. This o-ring is the one with the tap, and make sure you install the o-ring with the tap facing down. The tap is there so you can use a needle nose pliers to remove it.


The other o-ring is located on the "neck" of the filter housing.


Install the new filter into the cap, then screw the cap back onto the engine. I think the torque rating is molded on the cap. Then replace the crush washer on the drain bolt and screw it back onto the oil pan. Wipe clean the areas, then re-install the lower engine cover. You're almost done.

Now fill up the engine with your favorite engine oil. I prefer Mobil 1 0W40 (European formula). I used a funnel, however the funnel cannot sit completely into the fill hole because there is mechanical components just under there. Also, when you fill in the oil, don't just pour the entire bottle into the funnel. It will spill all over the engine cover. Fill it slowly. I initially put in only 6.5 quarts of oil as in the DIY for the A5 3.2. But after a short test drive, the MMI showed that the oil level wasn't even half in between max and min. So I put in another 3/4 quart (making it a total of 7-1/4 quarts of oil), and everything was fine.




So after filling up, put the oil cap back on. Wipe clean the area if needed to. Then go for a test drive. If you don't have a dip stick like me, after the test drive, shut the car off. Then turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Wait about 2 minutes, then the oil level will show up on the MMI screen. If the level is ok, congratulation, you're done!!!

NWS4Guy

Great writeup and pics, I watched the guys at European Automotive (a great local shop in my area) do my 10K change and BS'd with them while they did it - they are all Audi/VW guys. You did it all just like them, though they did call the local dealer and have a physical disptick brought over, they don't trust the MMI (can't blame them). It took a hair over 7 Qt for mine too, so you look good to go!

PhilH

Thanks. I will be doing oil changes myself, but with an oil extractor that I've used on my BMWs for the past 7 years. Good thing the S4 has a dipstick tube.

You can buy oil from the Audi dealer, right? I like to use OEM oil, and always did this with my BMWs.

dr bryan

Great DIY. I just changed mine this weekend. The oil filter housing uses a 36mm socket (not 32mm) and the drain plug is actually torx not hex (t35 I think). 6mm works but you might risk stripping it.

NABS4

Yes, the drain plug is a T35.

vwong

Thanks for the corrections. You're right on the 36mm socket. I just checked the socket I used, it does read 36mm. Not sure why I kept thinking it was a 32mm.

As for the drain bolt, I just followed the DIY for the A5 3.2. I should've double checked. But I just found out that my Torx set didn't have a T35. It has a T30 and a T40, just not a T35. I guess I'll have stop by Sears then. Thanks again for the corrections.

b_desmo

Drain plug sure looks like 6mm Hex, worked just fine, oil drains straight out if you don't have the car lifted on blocks, removed the filter canister slowly and lost 1 drop of oil. Overall way easier than my 07 2.0t. So far got about 7.1 qts in it to max level

NickS

Just an FYI for anyone who cares... on my previous cars that had a similar style belly pan, I always hated removing the damn thing so when I first removed it, I located where the drain plug was and drilled a large hole in the belly pan about the size of my fist.

I saved the portion that came off, drilled 3 holes in the disc (3 holes @ 120 apart) and 3 matching holes around where the material was removed on the belly pan and put it back on with zip ties. Yeah it looked like crap but whenever I changed the oil all I did was snip the zip ties off and drained the oil. Then just use new zip ties to put it back on.

It saved me so much time it was well worth it. I wish I had pictures but I don't.

b_desmo

Audi already put one there - but not under the drain plug - passenger side in front of front tire - the belly pan has integral sound insulation molded into it, but it is tempting to just install another plug, the way the drain plug comes straight down would make it work well but with the ease that this particular pan comes off I wouldn't bother.

m444

Topside oil extractor is less hassle.