DIY: N75 replacement on ATW engine (others should be close to the same)

BSK · 07-05-2005, 09:21 PM

30mins install time/difficulty 3 because of tightness

the N75 is located in between the airbox and engine just above the turbo in the hose going towards the airbox.
make sure your engine is cold when replacing or some burns will accompany this replacement!

disconnect the plastic air filter connector from the air box and the front intake. remove 2 phillips screws and pull out the piece.

remove the crankcase breather filter (pancake filter or what ever its called) to have better access to the N75.

disconnect the cable by squeezing the silver security lock

now comes the fun part to remove those twist on clamps. i used a small end banding snip plier and pulled up on the clamp side that has the notches. the clamp basically lets loose and can be taken off.

remove all 3 clamps and pull the N75 out.

replace with the replacement and put everything back together as it was and secure with clamps. i dont think that zipties would hold up in a high heat environment so do that own your own risk. i have the hoses on there without any clips so far.

thats it!
058 906 283 F is the N75F valve
058 906 283 C is the N75C valve
part number stays the same only the last letter changes to the actual letter designation

went out for a test drive in the rain and i am spiking now at 18psi and run 16psi of boost with the giac chip. however the best part is that the boost comes on rather quickly now than before. im happy!
i got the valve from vwvortex member who upgraded his to the J valve. 25$ shipped with 4 day wait is not bad for the F version!

Search Terms
N75 replacement, N75 location, N75 problems, crimping clamp removal

TJHUB · 07-05-2005, 09:36 PM

jprice@CPS · 07-05-2005, 10:06 PM

Does boost seem to be held better to redline?

Thanks :-)

BSK · 07-06-2005, 09:26 AM

other N75 valves will most likely require you to run a MBC manual boost controller so you dont run to much boost and make the ECU retard timing and all this stuff. the engine has to be optimized to run with higher boost. so just higher boost without the right programming wont do anything

Allroady DungBeetle · 07-06-2005, 10:12 AM

BSK · 07-06-2005, 10:44 AM

Allroady DungBeetle · 07-07-2005, 04:38 AM

~~ModifiedA4~~ · 07-07-2005, 06:04 AM

http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2352847.phtml

BSK auf Arbeit · 08-06-2005, 02:48 PM

07-05-2005, 09:21 PM	#1
BSK AudiWorld Super User Account #: 54666 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 16,823	DIY: N75 replacement on ATW engine (others should be close to the same) 30mins install time/difficulty 3 because of tightness the N75 is located in between the airbox and engine just above the turbo in the hose going towards the airbox. make sure your engine is cold when replacing or some burns will accompany this replacement! disconnect the plastic air filter connector from the air box and the front intake. remove 2 phillips screws and pull out the piece. remove the crankcase breather filter (pancake filter or what ever its called) to have better access to the N75. disconnect the cable by squeezing the silver security lock now comes the fun part to remove those twist on clamps. i used a small end banding snip plier and pulled up on the clamp side that has the notches. the clamp basically lets loose and can be taken off. remove all 3 clamps and pull the N75 out. replace with the replacement and put everything back together as it was and secure with clamps. i dont think that zipties would hold up in a high heat environment so do that own your own risk. i have the hoses on there without any clips so far. thats it! 058 906 283 F is the N75F valve 058 906 283 C is the N75C valve part number stays the same only the last letter changes to the actual letter designation went out for a test drive in the rain and i am spiking now at 18psi and run 16psi of boost with the giac chip. however the best part is that the boost comes on rather quickly now than before. im happy! i got the valve from vwvortex member who upgraded his to the J valve. 25$ shipped with 4 day wait is not bad for the F version! Search Terms N75 replacement, N75 location, N75 problems, crimping clamp removal __________________ aim: afastgerman

07-05-2005, 09:36 PM	#2
TJHUB Junior Member Account #: 90705 Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,510	What were you boosting before the J valve? __________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________ Silver '99.5 1.8T Quattro Tip (Sold) Black '06 2.0T Quattro S-Line 6-Speed with Premium and Technology Packages My B7 Audio Upgrade Single Din Head Unit Upgrade

07-05-2005, 10:06 PM	#3
jprice@CPS Member Account #: 8422 Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 13,146	So you feel boost comes on quicker than with the C? Does boost seem to be held better to redline? Thanks :-) __________________ Minnesota Audi Club 2001.5 Audi A4 1.8TQMS APR Stage 3+, APR Exhaust, Eibach Pro Street Coilovers, Neuspeed 19mm rear sway.

07-06-2005, 09:26 AM	#4
BSK AudiWorld Super User Account #: 54666 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 16,823	boost will always drop with higher rpms. different n75 is to get boost somewhat quicker other N75 valves will most likely require you to run a MBC manual boost controller so you dont run to much boost and make the ECU retard timing and all this stuff. the engine has to be optimized to run with higher boost. so just higher boost without the right programming wont do anything __________________ aim: afastgerman

07-06-2005, 10:12 AM	#5
Allroady DungBeetle AudiWorld Super User Account #: 35702 Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 12,434	So please pardon my ignoraminusussis, would this work/help with my APR chip? __________________ Need parts? Need tuning? Need anything? ---> * www.axismotorsport.com * is the place. And no I am not affiliated, just a fan of a great business. ----2002 Allroad 2.7T 6MT stock"ish" for now but looking for: H-Sport sways & short shifter. ----02 Mini Cooper S six speed... wifey's car, stock... and will probably always be. ----1961 International BC176 ALL Wheel Drive beast. 8K ORIGINAL miles. 18K GVW, Rockwell axles F&R with 7.17 gears. On board compressor, 120V system, 22K pound PTO winch, 9MPG of fossil fuel sucking goodness. ----66 Mini Cooper S 27K miles & all original except cam, electronic ignition, oversize brakes and Yoko race tires.

07-06-2005, 10:44 AM	#6
BSK AudiWorld Super User Account #: 54666 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 16,823	help in what way? the N75 regulates the wastegate opening/closing __________________ aim: afastgerman

07-07-2005, 04:38 AM	#7
Allroady DungBeetle AudiWorld Super User Account #: 35702 Join Date: Apr 2002 Posts: 12,434	Help boost sooner? Or is it software dependent? This is what I meant by being a noob to the N75. ;) __________________ Need parts? Need tuning? Need anything? ---> * www.axismotorsport.com * is the place. And no I am not affiliated, just a fan of a great business. ----2002 Allroad 2.7T 6MT stock"ish" for now but looking for: H-Sport sways & short shifter. ----02 Mini Cooper S six speed... wifey's car, stock... and will probably always be. ----1961 International BC176 ALL Wheel Drive beast. 8K ORIGINAL miles. 18K GVW, Rockwell axles F&R with 7.17 gears. On board compressor, 120V system, 22K pound PTO winch, 9MPG of fossil fuel sucking goodness. ----66 Mini Cooper S 27K miles & all original except cam, electronic ignition, oversize brakes and Yoko race tires.

07-07-2005, 06:04 AM	#8
~~ModifiedA4~~ Banned Account #: 143 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 34,564	here, i answered this a few days ago. http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2352847.phtml

08-06-2005, 02:48 PM	#9
BSK auf Arbeit FAQ Author Account #: 87006 Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 7,004	Nipper clipper = End Cutter Pliers __________________ Stephan B5 FAQ Creator Latest Mods: Clear Blinker Fluid, Heavy Duty Clutch Belt, Cross-Drilled Brake Lines, Engine Oil Bypass kit, and Chrome Muffler Bearings... IB broke the FAQ

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode


Discussion Forums:	Advanced Search