question about flywheel/flexplate

[rich11coop]

I sheared off the top of a lifter on cylinder #2!

I bought a replacement engine from Ebay with considerably less miles on it then the one that's in it (76k vs 160k)

The replacement engine is from a manual transmission & has flywheel/clutch/pressure plate mounted.

Sooo can I simply remove flywheel/clutch/pressure plate from the replacement engine and replace with the flexplate & torque convertor from the old engine?

Any issues with compatibility, balance, location, clearances, etc.???

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Coop

[VAP]

the 12V engines with manual and auto transmissions. You either need to now convert this car to manual transmission or modify the MT engine crank hub to match the AT engine crank if possible (see subsequent posts where others have say they've done it). Modification would a far simpler/easier option as if you swap cranks you'll also need new main bearings, front/rear seals etc.

Engines are 99.99% identical across the board except for the .01% caveat you just stumbled into.

[rich11coop]

VAP, thanks for the info.

I was afraid of that!

I got such a good deal too, $230 for COMPLETE engine.

I mean engine mounts, alt., a/c comp., TB, exhaust manifolds, etc. EVERYTHING intact.

I may have to re-think and just fix that PS head with the lifter that had it's top sheared off.

Cheers,

Coop

[KY Quattro]

I'm working on putting a A/T engine in my M/T car. Needless to say, I was worried when I read this thread. But, I started researching, and found that ETKA shows the crankshaft is the same for either. The only difference seems to be a bushing pressed into the rear flange of the crank on the A/T engine. Am I missing something?

[VAP]

and the MT crank has a smaller bore with a needle roller bearing setup to accept the MT pilot shaft. With that said you "may" be right about the bushing however (and it's been 2 years) when I was trying to mate up my engine with an 016 tranny, 7A flywheel and 200TQ clutch/pressure plate I had lifted one of my spare engines on the engine stand and none of that stuff would bolt up. That's when I discovered one of my spare engines was an AT engine. I swapped to a MT 12V on the engine stand and EVERYTHING bolted up.

It's entirely possible there is a bushing I didn't see but I "think" the hole was "larger" on the AT crank hub. Which if so then that means another thicker-walled/smaller bore sleeve must be made or purchased to adapt the smaller needle roller bearing/cage assembly.

I also remember Champagne Motorsports swapping a 12V AFC MT engine into a 93 B4 AAH 90S AT car last summer and they had to swap cranks to make it work. Given the engine code is identical for both cars what you're saying makes sense. And because it hasn't been a "personal" issue for me I haven't researched deeper. It was easier for me to simply put an MT 12V on my engine stand since I have 6 lying in storage. I didn't even know one of them was an AT 12V engine until the clutch test-fit incident.

Would be nice to get the final word on this tho so people know empirically if the coversion is go/no go.

[rich11coop]

VAP & Nob-

Now KY & I are scratching our heads!

"just add fixture 078105323B and a couple a compenstaion washers"

Worldimpex lists 078 105 323B as a carrier plate for 92-94 100's for $500+...

Sooo what's da truth?

Thanks!

Coop

[CrazyCab]

I do know that on teh Automatic setup it has a pressed in bushing on the back of the crank in order to keep the flex plate balanced and centered. If your using a manual tranny engine, I think your going to have to find this bushing and find a way to press it in. Now when I removed mine, there was not a puller in the world that was going to pull that bushing out so I ended up having to cut it out.

In my case I went the way of a manual transmission in my Cab, when I removed that bushing it allowed my flywheel to center and sit flush on the back of the crank.

There is a good chance your going to have to find yourself a different block, I just don't see how your going to get that bushing on the crank without putting it into a very high capacity press. And there very well may be a difference on the diameters of the crank. Thats something I would get out there and measure first.

Good Luck and let us know what you find out.

[karthur]

There is a bushing pressed into the back of the every 12v auto engine I have pulled. It is a bitch to remove, but it is possible. The only reason you need to replace the crank is if you damage it pulling the bushing. After breaking a bushing removal tool I cut four slits in the bushing and folded it in on itself and then it came out.

Hope this helps.

[E-Town]

or you can do what I did and have one made. All it does is centers the crank onto the torque converter. If you know someone with a lathe it's a pretty easy part to make, I made mine in under an hour. It also doesn't need to be steel, once the drive plate is bolted to the torque converter the bushing no longer does anything.

[Nob]

N 904 656 01 12-point head bolts
078 105 323 B fixture washer
035 105 303 A compensation washer
054 105 301 washer
054 105 329 bushing

Same crank, bearings, seals. Next time dont pull it outta yo ass Mancy.