DIY: GReddy FATT (Full Automatic Turbo Timer) Install in 00 1.8TQM lots of pictures dialup beware!

BSK · 02-12-2005, 05:02 PM

First of all: let me tell you IT IS EASY to do. At first I thought this is going to take forever and will be complicated but it wasn't.
On the difficult scale I would rate it a 3 of 10. So go ahead order a turbo timer and get going!
Time required 30mins to 2 hrs max

If you have the TT ordered of Yabe or where ever else and it came with the Japanese manual you can download the English version in PDF @ http://www.greddy.com/tech/FATURBO_TIMER.pdf
I used the write up in the tech section which worked 100% for me since I did not wanted to mess with the ignition or pull the instrument cluster out as in other write ups. The main parts that have to be removed are the radio and the driver's knee bolsters to gain access to all the wires.
The TT was installed in the cup holder spot which serves as the perfect location in a late 99.5 model. The write up can be found @ http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec98.shtml

So here we go:

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Or do the glove mod like I did

Remove the radio with the removal clips or nail files. What ever you have. Make sure that you have the radio code card which is located in the radio manual. After I was done and connected the radio I was never asked for the code but make sure you have it.

The removal tool. I only had 2 so I used them on one side first and then went to the other one

Radio pulled out with all the connectors

The trim around the cup holder and switches pulls right out toward the back. It's held in place by clips

Use a flathead screwdriver and pull up on the clips to remove the cup holder

If you pull on the cup holder while it is in there you might pull out the holder itself out of the assembly. and get presented with the tensioners. The cup holder must have taken months to engineer. I could not figure out how to put the thing back together. Once you have the cup holder removed disconnect the power wire for the light.

Test fitting the turbo timer in its new location. * I like it! *

Remove the fuse box cover by prying it with the flathead and then pulling it out. You will need to remove 3 screws in there later. Also use the flathead to remove those covers in the knee bolster. There are 2 screws hidden behind those.

The knee bolster is secured with 4 screws. One is behind each cover, one near the gas pedal and the other one is in the lower corner of the fuse box. Once those are removed the knee bolsters slides out towards the back. Make sure you disconnect the power wire for the light and the OBD2 connected which is held by the clip that is standing out in the picture near the green wire.

Remove the 2 screws holding the fuse cover and slide it towards the right down into the open space underneath the steering wheel. Cut the zip tie holding all the wires together and pop open the back of the fuse box. It's hinged and will open towards the right.

Fuse number 6 in the fuse box is the fuse for the central locking system. The wire is a SMALL black/blue wire. There's only one wire like that in the box. It's easily found. Cut the wire halfway between the box and the black wrapping to make it easy to splice later on. Yes this wire WILL BE CUT!

Pull the long wire pack that came with the TT through the back towards the cup holder and do the same with the brown/pink wire.

The wires towards the bottom have to be extended by a couple of inches. So have some spare wire left over. The blue wire is for the parking brake feature and wasn't used by me but I didn't feel like cutting it both so I left it and wrapped it in electrical tape.

Meanwhile the whole car looks like this:

Extend the red and green wire from the turbo timer cables by some inches. Depending on your cable routing it shouldn't be more than a foot at all. I extended the red with red and the green with white.

There should be a bunch of stuff hanging down now. Don't panic now comes the fun stuff.

And inline fuse holder is basically a cable with a fuse box in between for those who don't know and a MUST for everything that needs power and that you install. They are 1.50$ at Wally world and a lifesaver. Connected the cut blue/black wire from the fuse box with the fuse holder and the other end of the fuse holder cable with power from the 75x terminal in the power block. The fuse inside the holder should be 5 amps not more!
Make sure you take the wire LEADING towards the box and connect it to the 75x if you chose the wrong end your power windows won't work!

The red wire from the harness goes to the #30 in the terminal
There is another black/blue wire that is coming from the OBD2 connector that will be connected with the green wire from the harness.
I found it easier to remove some of the back wrapping on the old cable to make it easier to do that. You can splice into the wire or cut the thing like I did and then use German "luesterklemmen" or t-taps to connect everything back together.

At this time you should have made 3 connections:
Black/blue wire from #6 fuse cut and connected to #75x terminal with inline fuse holder
Red wire from harness connected to #30 terminal
Green wire from harness connected to the black/blue wire from the obd2 connector

Connect the battery and start the car. The Turbo timer should speak to you. I just turned the car off and the timer was flashing and counting down a 90sec shut off. NICE everything worked. In order for the TT not to move around I used electrical tape and went around the middle of the timer 5 times. Depending on the thickness of you tape you might need more or less turns. Test fit the timer. My timer is bomb secure I had trouble getting it in so I won't move around for sure.

Use zip ties to get the wires together. I didn't hook up the speedometer wire or the parking brake wire but routed the cables so they had to be ziptied. The fuse holder was connected to the upper part of the fuse box to be still accessible with the bolster in position.
Get the fuse box back where it was.
Make sure none of the new wires are hung up somewhere or are rubbing against some metal
Put knee bolster back in position
Connect the radio cables
Enter the code is asked (my radio never did ask me btw)
Put the trim piece back in
And it should look like this:

Say thanks to your dedicated lazy helper:

Take some picks at night after being unable to get the color of the display permanently changed to red:

video of the count down while I was installing the timer

The new 4th generation of the greddy turbo timer is called FAT full automatic turbo timer. It comes with red and blue backlighting, blue being the main one and red the warning color. There are several modes to have the TT programmed to be in red: the voltage version low warning 10-12V and high warning 14-16V. The Audi always runs between 13.7 and 14.1 so the warning like never works in red for me.
There is also a speedometer function built in for KM/h the installation is found here: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2293882.phtml The TT also has a bunch of other modes like track times and stuff.

Have fun!
In case I messed up on the write up with the wires or so let me know. English is my 4th language so keep the grammar and punctuation for you.

Stephan

wnut · 02-12-2005, 06:58 PM

this right here is what seperates the good from the worthless posts.

AudiAddict B7 · 02-12-2005, 07:16 PM

Enclave · 02-12-2005, 07:31 PM

I see you have 6 holes, can you open them and pour water into them?

BSK · 02-12-2005, 07:38 PM

check the fluid levels for each core. might do that next week. and yes if you have a maintenance battery with removeable tops the fluid should always be above the level of the core. its kinda hard to see in the b5 than in other vehicles so u need to take the battery out or just open the covers and see where the fluid is at.

Im@wesome~ out! · 02-12-2005, 08:23 PM

Rosscoe_Flg · 02-12-2005, 08:53 PM

great write-up...good pics to go a long with it. inspired me, i just may have to order a TT tonight. thanks again.

p.s. where did you get the radio removal tools? i know you can get them from the dealership, just didnt know if there was anywhere cheaper.

PDXA4 · 02-13-2005, 09:43 AM

j31izzle · 02-13-2005, 01:13 PM

Rebel1 · 02-13-2005, 05:55 PM

How does it go with your remote keyless entry?

Can you still exit the car with the TT running the ignition (i.e engine is ON) and lock it with the remote?

02-12-2005, 05:02 PM	#1
BSK AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 16,815	DIY: GReddy FATT (Full Automatic Turbo Timer) Install in 00 1.8TQM lots of pictures dialup beware! First of all: let me tell you IT IS EASY to do. At first I thought this is going to take forever and will be complicated but it wasn't. On the difficult scale I would rate it a 3 of 10. So go ahead order a turbo timer and get going! Time required 30mins to 2 hrs max If you have the TT ordered of Yabe or where ever else and it came with the Japanese manual you can download the English version in PDF @ http://www.greddy.com/tech/FATURBO_TIMER.pdf I used the write up in the tech section which worked 100% for me since I did not wanted to mess with the ignition or pull the instrument cluster out as in other write ups. The main parts that have to be removed are the radio and the driver's knee bolsters to gain access to all the wires. The TT was installed in the cup holder spot which serves as the perfect location in a late 99.5 model. The write up can be found @ http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec98.shtml So here we go: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Or do the glove mod like I did Remove the radio with the removal clips or nail files. What ever you have. Make sure that you have the radio code card which is located in the radio manual. After I was done and connected the radio I was never asked for the code but make sure you have it. The removal tool. I only had 2 so I used them on one side first and then went to the other one Radio pulled out with all the connectors The trim around the cup holder and switches pulls right out toward the back. It's held in place by clips Use a flathead screwdriver and pull up on the clips to remove the cup holder If you pull on the cup holder while it is in there you might pull out the holder itself out of the assembly. and get presented with the tensioners. The cup holder must have taken months to engineer. I could not figure out how to put the thing back together. Once you have the cup holder removed disconnect the power wire for the light. Test fitting the turbo timer in its new location. * I like it! * Remove the fuse box cover by prying it with the flathead and then pulling it out. You will need to remove 3 screws in there later. Also use the flathead to remove those covers in the knee bolster. There are 2 screws hidden behind those. The knee bolster is secured with 4 screws. One is behind each cover, one near the gas pedal and the other one is in the lower corner of the fuse box. Once those are removed the knee bolsters slides out towards the back. Make sure you disconnect the power wire for the light and the OBD2 connected which is held by the clip that is standing out in the picture near the green wire. Remove the 2 screws holding the fuse cover and slide it towards the right down into the open space underneath the steering wheel. Cut the zip tie holding all the wires together and pop open the back of the fuse box. It's hinged and will open towards the right. Fuse number 6 in the fuse box is the fuse for the central locking system. The wire is a SMALL black/blue wire. There's only one wire like that in the box. It's easily found. Cut the wire halfway between the box and the black wrapping to make it easy to splice later on. Yes this wire WILL BE CUT! Pull the long wire pack that came with the TT through the back towards the cup holder and do the same with the brown/pink wire. The wires towards the bottom have to be extended by a couple of inches. So have some spare wire left over. The blue wire is for the parking brake feature and wasn't used by me but I didn't feel like cutting it both so I left it and wrapped it in electrical tape. Meanwhile the whole car looks like this: Extend the red and green wire from the turbo timer cables by some inches. Depending on your cable routing it shouldn't be more than a foot at all. I extended the red with red and the green with white. There should be a bunch of stuff hanging down now. Don't panic now comes the fun stuff. And inline fuse holder is basically a cable with a fuse box in between for those who don't know and a MUST for everything that needs power and that you install. They are 1.50$ at Wally world and a lifesaver. Connected the cut blue/black wire from the fuse box with the fuse holder and the other end of the fuse holder cable with power from the 75x terminal in the power block. The fuse inside the holder should be 5 amps not more! Make sure you take the wire LEADING towards the box and connect it to the 75x if you chose the wrong end your power windows won't work! The red wire from the harness goes to the #30 in the terminal There is another black/blue wire that is coming from the OBD2 connector that will be connected with the green wire from the harness. I found it easier to remove some of the back wrapping on the old cable to make it easier to do that. You can splice into the wire or cut the thing like I did and then use German "luesterklemmen" or t-taps to connect everything back together. At this time you should have made 3 connections: Black/blue wire from #6 fuse cut and connected to #75x terminal with inline fuse holder Red wire from harness connected to #30 terminal Green wire from harness connected to the black/blue wire from the obd2 connector Connect the battery and start the car. The Turbo timer should speak to you. I just turned the car off and the timer was flashing and counting down a 90sec shut off. NICE everything worked. In order for the TT not to move around I used electrical tape and went around the middle of the timer 5 times. Depending on the thickness of you tape you might need more or less turns. Test fit the timer. My timer is bomb secure I had trouble getting it in so I won't move around for sure. Use zip ties to get the wires together. I didn't hook up the speedometer wire or the parking brake wire but routed the cables so they had to be ziptied. The fuse holder was connected to the upper part of the fuse box to be still accessible with the bolster in position. Get the fuse box back where it was. Make sure none of the new wires are hung up somewhere or are rubbing against some metal Put knee bolster back in position Connect the radio cables Enter the code is asked (my radio never did ask me btw) Put the trim piece back in And it should look like this: Say thanks to your dedicated lazy helper: Take some picks at night after being unable to get the color of the display permanently changed to red: video of the count down while I was installing the timer The new 4th generation of the greddy turbo timer is called FAT full automatic turbo timer. It comes with red and blue backlighting, blue being the main one and red the warning color. There are several modes to have the TT programmed to be in red: the voltage version low warning 10-12V and high warning 14-16V. The Audi always runs between 13.7 and 14.1 so the warning like never works in red for me. There is also a speedometer function built in for KM/h the installation is found here: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2293882.phtml The TT also has a bunch of other modes like track times and stuff. Have fun! In case I messed up on the write up with the wires or so let me know. English is my 4th language so keep the grammar and punctuation for you. Stephan __________________ aim: afastgerman

02-12-2005, 06:58 PM	#2
wnut Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 76,460	gotta praise you for the pictures and write up. this right here is what seperates the good from the worthless posts. __________________ Connect with me:

02-12-2005, 07:31 PM	#4
Enclave AudiWorld Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1,018	Did you ever have to maintain that battery? I see you have 6 holes, can you open them and pour water into them? __________________ 2001.5 A4 1.8tqms Works Emotions on 245x35x18 Goodyear F1 G3D3s Startup Racing Contest Suspension 600/700 Pectel ECU

02-12-2005, 07:38 PM	#5
BSK AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 16,815	honestly i was thinking the same today. i need to take the battery out and check the fluid levels for each core. might do that next week. and yes if you have a maintenance battery with removeable tops the fluid should always be above the level of the core. its kinda hard to see in the b5 than in other vehicles so u need to take the battery out or just open the covers and see where the fluid is at. __________________ aim: afastgerman

02-13-2005, 09:43 AM	#8
PDXA4 AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Bay Area Posts: 19,709	Fantastic writeup...worthy of the TECH articles... __________________ original PDXA4 2003 D2 S8 2008 mkV GTi 2006 NC MX-5 former: 2003 A4 Avant 2000 A4 several mods

02-12-2005, 07:16 PM	#3
AudiAddict B7 Junior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 1,443	Excellent write-up, props for taking the time to post all of the information __________________ 07 A4 2.0T QM Prem, Conv, Cold, Tech, Xenons, B-Tooth GONE: 06 A4 2.0T QM GONE: 99.5 1.8TQ APR SIII, Milltek Exhaust, Spec III clutch, H&R/Bilsteins, Strat Short Shifter, A8 Rotors + Hawk HPS pads XM Radio, Infinity Components, Kenwood Subs, S4 HID's, Cellport hands free, Phatnoise.

02-12-2005, 08:23 PM	#6
Im@wesome~ out! Elder Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 13,696	It's Awesome people like you that make audiworld. GREAT WRITE UP

02-12-2005, 08:53 PM	#7
Rosscoe_Flg Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 3,704	already been said, but ill say it again... great write-up...good pics to go a long with it. inspired me, i just may have to order a TT tonight. thanks again. p.s. where did you get the radio removal tools? i know you can get them from the dealership, just didnt know if there was anywhere cheaper. __________________

02-13-2005, 01:13 PM	#9
j31izzle AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 2,650	excellent. sure will use this when i install mine. __________________ www.vizualflux.com

02-13-2005, 05:55 PM	#10
Rebel1 New Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18	Does remote still lock car while engine running? How does it go with your remote keyless entry? Can you still exit the car with the TT running the ignition (i.e engine is ON) and lock it with the remote?

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