Monster Valentine 1 (V1) Radar Detector Hardwire Install Collection

[©odeWhore]

Ok, so I have nothing better to do than searching AW for various ways to hardwire V1.

Sorry about keyword-loaded subject line - I hope it will assist n00bs in their future searches on this topic.

This is a pretty comprehensive list of links to varous posts describing radar detector (mostly V1 - I think we all know why) hardwiring methods. There are four main categories: fusebox, homelink, sunroof, and mirror.

Fusebox-based install is the most versatile, IMO - you get to pick the power source, have a great place to mount V1 distribution block, and don't have to take off a lot of trim. This is what I plan on doing, anyway.

Enjoy!

Fusebox
Homelink
B5 S4 V1 Rear Shelf
Another Homelink
Another Fusebox
Allroad Sunroof
A6 Sunroof
A6 Homelink
A6 Pillar Removal
ToyGuy B5 S4 Step-by-step
AutoDim Mirror
A4 Pillar Removal
Yet Another Fusebox
Sunroof
Another A4 Pillar Removal
Yet Another A4 Fusebox
Escort - A4 Fusebox

[cgeib]

Thank you very much for the links! Timing is everything ...

My new V1 is due to arrive on Monday.

[Eugenius]

of course, I didn't compile it for anyone else... thanks

[Bryan-MBS4]

[©odeWhore]

Went with the fusebox install - pretty simple, actually. I went with tapping the wire in the back of the fusebox instead of piggybacking off the fuse itself for cleaner install, but it meant i had to remove the knee bolster and the fusebox.

Disassembly
Pulled off the fusebox cover, undid 3 bolts holding the knee bolster and pulled it off, undid 2 bolts holding the fusebox, pulled off, unlatched and opened the fusebox.

Connections
I decided to tap off the black wire feeding fuse #10 (headlight range control, 5A), which, despite being headlight-related, is actually switched with the ignition. Originally I was going to follow the advice in one of the links and tap off the black wire that feeds #5, 6, and 7, but decided against it for these reasons:

- that wire is awfully thick, and is expected to carry up to 40A, so didn't want to weaken it with the tap

- that wire feeds ESP, among other things, and I didn't want to risk losing it if the tap got screwed up and cut through it

Fuse #16 (garage door opener, 5A) would have worked just as well, but the wire was too tight in my fusebox, so I went with #10.

I attached the ground wire to the top screw holdling the fuse box, and affixed the V1 power block to the frame just above the fusebox.

Reassembly
Reverse of the disassembly. Nothing new here.

Mounting
V1 itself went all the way up on the windshield, just to the left of the mirror, with the wire tucked under the headliner, A-pillar, and dash, all the way under the fusebox cover.

I'm still undecided where to put the concealed display. I can't put it under the instrument cluster dome, as my steering wheel position is pretty low, and it would cover the display. I could put it on top of the steering column cover, but then the top of the wheel hub covers the bottom of the display, where the signal strength indicator it. I also considered attaching it to the front of the instrument cluster trim (between the buttons), but this trim piece is angled upwards. Last option would be to put it on top of the dash at the bottom of the A-pillar - this would work perfectly if I had a sticker there to cover it, but I don't, so it's very visible from the outside. Decisions, decisions...

[pokerplayer]

I decided not to wire to fusebox due to me not wanting to run a wire all the way down the pillar. Theres power right near the location it was being mounted in the interior light/sunroof panel.
V1 is installed just left of the rearview mirror, peeking just below the tint strip.
Ran the power wire up thru the rearview mirror mount and aquired power from the sunroof switch.
Sunroof is switched +12VDC so V1 turns on and off with key.

Tools needed: voltmeter & a couple screwdrivers
Time required: 20 min start to finish.

I notched the rearview mirror mount cover so the cord could feed into it without pinching (see pic).
Very happy with both the install & performance.

[nyc_qcar]

I really didn't like the radio shack wire taps described in the auto-dim "how to".

They are tricky and you only get one shot at positioning them correctly! If you choose to butcher the V1 coiled cable as I did, you will also find the core copper in it are too small for them to make a good connection. Ugh. What a mess.

So my alternative solution was:

a) remove cover
b) unclip the wire harness
c) twist off the mirror and take home
d) cut black and white wires and insert crimpable insulated connectors from radio shack. the smallest ones, one side crimp onto the wire, the other crimp onto the wire AND the V1 power line together making a tap, or if you like, Y juction.
e) using a plastic tie, bundle everything including the insulated part of the V1 coiled wire so that tugging cannot pull anything from the crimps
f) tuck it all away (less space needed than two phone tap plastic studs) and cut the notch in the cover for the exit
g) put back the mirror the same way you took it off, test, and add cover.

voila.

works like a charm.

and a couple of inches of coiled wire instead of straight phone cable wire means you get some flexibility on positioning the V1, without much dangle!