Okay my "squeeze the oil trick" does not work with IHG, long and BWW . . .

[Jeff Vader - boscoj]

Okay so I decided to give IHG another shot. Specifically to see if I could get any oil (like #7 has) out of it.
I started out by claying the trunk using a new ClayMagic bar and P&S Paint Gloss as lube.


The P&S stuff worked well, smelled good and is only $4 a bottle. So I did a quick mask job and broke out the glaze. You can guess which product I'm partial to.


So I started in with my #7 technique, apply drizzles to the inside of the rag, fold in thirds and then in half and squeeze out the oil . . .


The stuff squeezed out looked exactly like what I put in there, caca colored with no apparent emollient character at all. Reminds me why I do not like 3M stuff, it dries out your hands.


So I rubbed out the panel as I do all trunks, small circles to start and finishing side to side across the trunk. Not really abrasive but very grabby, not smooth at all.

So now for the Meguiar's. Same deal, drizzle on inside of rag . . .


Fold in thirds . . .


Pat down to saturate . . .


Fold in half and start to roll up the rag . . .


Roll it up and try to squeeze some oil out, if none comes out reapply.


Add a little more #7 to the inside of the rag and fold it back up . . .


And squeeze out the filtered nearly clear oil . . . #7 softens cuticles while you detail!


Rub well, using plenty of force is no prob and actually easy because of all the nice oils. This really helps bring out the depth in the color.


While the 3M side had dried almost immediately the #7 applied in this fashion will never dry. I ran my fingers over both sides and the IHG came off on my fingers while the #7 was just moving the oil around.


So I buffed that all off and noticed the 3M side was very dry and grabby. The #7 side was luxurious moist and smooth.
I decided to test the Velocity Glaze from P&S which is really a wax with a silly name. With my time tested process on the left with #26 and the IHG side getting the P&S.


I was really suprised how easily the P&S came off and how smooth it was. Noticeably smoother than the #26 side. I tried applying the #26 heavily so you could see it but you can't really see it.


The #26 was average to take off but came off cleanly. The P&S was very easy to take off and had a Juicy Fruit smell to it. We'll see how the P&S lasts, it was so easy to put on and take off.
It was a tad more expensive than the #26 but if it lasts well I may consider it.


phew . . .

That is all . . .

[RickM]

I'm assuming the #7 side feels "luxurious moist and smooth" even after buffing because you've laid down a layer of oil, and even hard buffing won't remove it all.....but doesn't that mean that what you're really feeling is the oil on the paint? I guess I'd have to try it myself to really know what your fingertips are sensing.

To do a whole car, how many times do you have to saturate the cloth with #7? Stated another way, how large an area do you cover with the amount shown in the pics? It looks like you get maybe a tablespoon of the clear stuff out of maybe 10 times that much in original product. So how much total product do you end up using for one complete application? I'm assuming a lot, which is why you're buying the half-gallon size! But hey, if the results are there, that's what matters. No problem with wax properly adhering with that much oil on the car?

Thanks for test and the effort, boscoj. Posts like this really add to the value of this forum for everyone.

[HDClown]

1) Why do you do the squeeze oil trick with the #7. What's the purpose? How does the outcome differ frm not squeezing. And how would you do this on a side pane like the doors?

2) Do you use THAT much glaze for an area that small? That seems like a ton of glaze to be using.

3) How hard is the #7 to buff of considering it never dries?

[Jeff Vader - boscoj]

I used a smaller amount because I was just doing half the trunklid. I start on the hood and usually get about a tablespoon out by the the time the rag is saturated. Once the rag is wet you don't really need to add as much. I must be using about 4 or 5 oz. when I do a whole car.
I have never had problems with wax adhering.

[Jeff Vader - boscoj]

hand rub procedure when they taught it to us. After the paint had peen polished this step was designed to feed and nourish the paint as well as develop more shine and depth.
Once the rag is loaded up you really need very little, I was doing a small area just to demonstrate.
It is really easy to buff off, just takes two clean bath towels. One to get the major stuff off and another to get all the panels ready for wax.

[AlanL]

I have some #7 in my shelf and may play around with this technique when I do my fall deep clean detail job in a few weeks.

[Jeff Vader - boscoj]

the discernable difference is texture. Like I have said in the past half the time I never wax after this step. And the quickie detail is easy enough to do once a month where you just wash, clay if you want and then hand rub with #7, hitting the rubber with protectant while the #7 is still on the car and then just buffing it all off and doing the windows.

[HDClown]

What are the results like in comparison if you have?

Have you compared the #7 to IHG in terms of it's ability to fill swirls and help the paint shine in general?

[Jeff Vader - boscoj]

as far as swirls go I have never done a comparison on a dark car. My car is so clean and white it is really hard to see any swirls at all. I use #9 for swirls and #7 for the hand rub.
The other thing I remember about using straight #7 for rub was that the rag would load up and make it very sticky and tiring to use.

[AlanL]

I found this to be much nicer for metalic paint jobs like silver than the IHG/Blitz mantra that seems to have found a following for dark/solid colors.

#7 works great with a P-C buffer and gives a pretty nice shine when followed by #26 wax. #7 is specifically a filler and will cover minor stuff, but if you need to use a little abrasion to work over scratches and swirls, you will need something like #9 to handle that task.