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#1 |
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Member
Account #: 12957
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,948
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...and the products you use?
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#2 |
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AudiWorld Super User
Account #: 433
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 8,073
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user rating, and small comments.
Something easier to read than the existing 'user reviews' section which does not give an aggregate rating. Separate categories such as: tools, windows, leatherette, leather, wheels, tires, waxes, glazes, etc. |
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#3 |
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AudiWorld Uber User
Account #: 424
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 36,444
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I wash using Meguire's car wash. Dry completely using a California water blade and cotton terry towels. Then I use either One Grand Omega Glaze or 3M IHG (both are equally good, IMO)(terrycloth covered sponge pad to apply, cotton detailing cloths to remove). Then Blitz wax (ditto). This is my twice-yearly ritual, Spring and Fall. I'll wax a couple times during the summer as well, without glazing.
I'm going to be claying my wife's car for the first time this coming weekend. We've had it for nearly 4 years, and I've only ever glazed/waxed it, so I figure it's "due" for a clay bar treatment.
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---------------------------------------- "Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and the government when it deserves it." - Mark Twain |
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#4 |
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Member
Account #: 40
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,232
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I start with cleaning the interior of the car. Vacume the carpet, seats and floormats. Then I use "Majestic Solutions Glass Cleaner" to clean the inside of the windows. I then use my mini "California Duster" to clean the dash area. I dont really do much more than that. If I have any scrub marks I will use Vinylex to lean them up.
Now its on to the outside. I start with the wheels. I use "P21-S" or "Meguiar's Hot Rims" wheel cleaner. I put some on the wheel and let it sit then use a sponge to clean and rinse with lots of water. Now I start with the car. I use "Meguiar's Soft Wash Gel." This works really well and doesnt strip the wax very fast. After I am done washing I use the "California Water Blade" to dry followed by the "Absorber" to get all the spots I missed. Dont forget to dry the door's, trunk, hood, and gas cap. After drying I use "3M Imperial Hand Glaze" followed by "Blitz Wax." This is the best combo for me because my car is kept outside 24-7 and the Blitz wax last forever! After glazing and waxing I use the "Vinylex" on the tires and lower black moldings to shine them up. I use the glass cleaner on the outside of the windows and sometimes polish my exhuast tips. Then sit back with a beer and admire your work......well, in the dark
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<a href="http://registry.audiworld.com/audiworld/registry/details.asp?car=3866"> Matt E. 1999.5 1.8TQMS+Stuff</a> ![]() Matt|DOT|NCAudi|DOT|org #audiworld on EFNET
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#5 |
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Audiworld Premium Sponsor
Account #: 13830
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 15,187
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I start with my wheels, tires, and wheel wells, using cheap car wash soap, and a brush/sponge. I find cleaning the wheel wells helps the appearance as well, since they're visible sometimes.
I then wash the car using Meguiar's Soft Gel, and dry using two Absorbers, one for the body panels, and one for the door jams, trunk jams, and other less clean places. Using my Craftsman RO, I apply Meguiars Swirl Remover using a cotton bonnet, and remove with cotton towels. Wax using Meguiar's Gold, applied with a paper-like bonnet, removed using cotton cloths. Windows I use my slightly damp absorber. Tires I leave alone.
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www.purems.com 866-397-5487 | Temecula, CA | mike@purems.com | Specials on Twitter! |
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#6 |
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Elder Member
Account #: 103
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 22,217
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The first time I waxed my car I did the following:
1. Wash the car with Dawn dish soap. This removes ALL wax and road grime. 2. Z-18 ClayBar. I clayed the ENTIRE car. I added Z-7 into a spray bottle with water and used that as the lubricant. 3. Washed the car with Z-7 4. Waxed the car with Z-1 and let dry WITHOUT removing. 5. Waxed with Z-5 directly over the Z-1 6. Removed the Z-5 7. Went over the entire car with Z-6 Ultra Clean "Gloss Enhancer" Spray 8. Waxed the car with Z-2 9. Removed the Z-2 10. Repeated step 7. That was what I did the FIRST time I put the Zaino on my TTQ. Every time AFTER that I did steps 3, 5 and 7. I have not put Z-1 back on the car. I will be doing that only 2 or 3 times each year. I have been using the Z-5 and Z-2 every other time I wax the car. I try and wax the car EVERY week! The shine keeps getting better and better! The products that I purchased: Z-1 Show Car Polish LOK Pre-Cleaner and Gloss Enhancer Z-2 Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes Z-5 Polish for Swirl Marks & Fine Scratches Z-6 Ultra Clean "Gloss Enhancer" Spray Z-10 "Leather in a Bottle" Treatment and Conditioner Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss Z-18 ClayBar #314 Custom 4x5 polish Applicator I also went out and purchased a bunch of 100% Made in the US of A WHITE towels. This is the MOST important part of the PROPER care of your car! If the towel says 100% cotton and does NOT say Made in the USA, then the towel is NOT 100% cotton, just the matting is, the backing is polyester! Polyester will SCRATCH your car! You will need at least 4 LARGE bath towels and 2-4 hand towels. I have even more than this, but that is me Also make sure you purchase 2-4 #314Applicators to apply the various waxes/polishes, these are amazing! The Zaino products go on and come off easier than ANYTHING you could ever imagine! Oh, by the way . . .I am so anal and such a NUT, that I performed Steps 1-10 on my wheels! I removed them the weekend that I picked up my car! I have since put on an additional 5-8 coats of Z-5 and Z-6 on my wheels! Keep in mind that I use the hand towels to wash the car and the bath towels to dry it. I also use the bath towels to remove the waxes and apply the Z-6. You will need to keep a separate set of towels for the wheels, this includes the hand towel that you use to wash them! You don't want the brake dust to scratch the paint on your car! Also, ALWAYS, I repeat ALWAYS wash the wheels AFTER the car has been washed! By doing this, the brake dust will be in water that will ONLY be used to clean the wheels! |
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#7 |
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AudiWorld Expert
Account #: 15888
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 25,395
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Wash the car with Dawn, top first then sides then the rockers/low stuff last. Dry the car off with Costco 100% cotton bath towels and clean all the door jams. Then I clean the wheels with Jobmaster generic citrus cleaner from Cosctco and a small handheld Rubbermaid dustbroom and a washcloth getting all the way inside the wheel. Then a diaper saturated with GROW 1705 wax remover go over the whole car and remove any deposits. *Please use protective gloves and ensure you have adequate ventilation when working with any solvent* If the car has fallout on the top surfaces I will then go over it with straight toluene. If there are still tar/tire marks on the sides and rockers I will use the toluene there as well until the body is totally clean. Since this original post I would now insert the claybar step. I use Meguiars Quick Detailer and 3M Perfect It III Claybar. Then I use 3/4" and 2 1/2" masking tape to tape off all body seams, rubber trim, the wiper trim and assembly and the front grill area and any high spots on the paint. If the car has alot of fallout on it still I will hit it with a mixuture of Meguiars' #7 and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. If it's not bad I will just use #3. Since the paint should be really clean now I never use a wool or fiber pad. For cutting I use the Meguiar's Finesse foam pad. The buffer I use is a Black & Decker 6138 with electronic speed control. For cutting I use 1500rpm and for swirl removal I use 1000rpm. DeWalt is now making this buffer. After first stage buff is done remove all compound with bath towels. Then I go around with the #9 swirl remover and a W9000 soft buff pad. Then buff off that mess with your bath towels. The next part is hard to explain but a great detailing secret use for #7 show car glaze. What I do is get a nice thick terry wash cloth with plenty of texture and lay it on the hood. Then I take my #7 (the one without the cornstarch) and drizzle it onto the rag evenly. Then fold it up in thirds and squeeze out the pure clear oil. You have to do this a couple times to get the rag wet enough. Then just go around working on small sections starting in small circles, then crossways and finishing lengthwise. Reapply #7 as needed. If you use good hand pressure this will really make a big difference in the final appearence of the car. This stuff does not dry so just leave it on unitl you are ready to Armour All or whatever. As you go around with the hand rub take off the tape and thouroughly rub the bits under the tape. I have since posted a how to on this process. The "Squeeze out the oil Trick" http://forums.audiworld.com/detail/msgs/11099.phtml At this point the car should look like hell, big oily mess. What better time to armour all. I go around with a shop rag saturated with water/armour all 50/50 and hit all the plastic rubber tires etc. Now the car really looks bad. Now get your 4 clean bath towels cuz it's time to take it all off and finally see what a good job you did. Once I get all the muck off I go around with a good carnauba or Meguiars #26 which I like alot. It is cheap, easy to apply/remove and does not discolor rubber. Then buff that off and clean your windows and your done. For a quick detail in the future just wash and repeat the #7 handrub then armourall and buff it clean. I do this about once a month sometimes waxing it as well.
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__________________________________________________ _______ *** RIP MATT AMMON. YOU WILL BE MISSED *** |
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#8 |
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AudiWorld Expert
Account #: 15888
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 25,395
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__________________
__________________________________________________ _______ *** RIP MATT AMMON. YOU WILL BE MISSED *** |
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