Here's the info on how to do an easy $500 FMIC yourself

[Mike Desi]

OK, Here's the list of what I purchased from ebay to do the FMIC for under $500. A few of the elbows and hoses you will need more than one, which is noted after the ebay item #. The only other items I used were a piece of 3/4 or 1/2" wide 12 gauge flat steel for the top and bottom FMIC mounts. The top was supported using one piece of the flat steel, bent to shape going over the top of the radiator, and bolted to an existing bolt. The IC has two mounting areas on the bottom. All you have to do is cut a couple of lenghts of the steel to reach the front support, (looks like a 2 inch ptpe going from one side of the car to the other) and drill and bolt the pieces from the IC to the holes you drilled on the support.. So you'll also need a handfull of assorted nuts and bolts. I'd suggest pay a bit more and get stainlaee steel. Here's what you need for the piping. On the left side (driver's side) coming off the IC, 3" silicone coupler, 45deg cast elbow, a piece of the straight aluminum tube cut to length, 3" silicone coupler, 90deg cast elbow, and a piece of the straight aluminum tube cut to length which is connected to the existing coupler coming from the throttle body. Make sure you tighten all the clamps when everything is in place. From the right (passengers side) coming off the IC, 45deg silicone coupler, 90 deg steel tubing, 45deg silicone coupler, and the custom 90 degree steel tubing with the 2.75 flared end that fits into the exising coupler that goes to the turbo. This last pipe can be done several different ways. Here's how I had mine done. Take one of the two 90deg stainless steel pipes, take it to any shop that does custom exhausts (many of them do) and have them add 6 inches to one end, and flair the other end out to 2.75 inches. The rubber coupling that exits the turbo needs that larger diameter for a good seal when it is clamped to the pipe. Or, if you find a shop that does nice mandrel bends, have them make this pipe in one piece. I decided to install the Lltek bumper valance as well, but it's not neccesary. If you need pics, check out my picture poster, or email me. I'll be glad to forward them to you along with any info you need.
Ebay item numbers: 7912509672 (2X), 7907548903, 3844433646 (2X), 7927146382(3X), 7927382875, 7926751401, 7927075639

[cpayne]

-1)What are your pressure losses on your boost gauge compared to stock? Lower Boost threshold?
-2) What have been decrease in post-IC temps compared to stock?
-4) Did you do any welding or just use the Silicone couplers to make your bends?
-5) Are you confident on only having 1 bracket holding the FMIC on the car (besides turbo and intake manifold)
-6) The tubes in the core you chose seem really small? Granted there are more of them but very narrow channels
-7) Any directional fins in the end-caps to evenly distribute the charged hot air through-out the IC?
-9) IC w/ End-Caps only $200 bucks...a Garrett Core w/o End-Caps runs around $420. What do you see as the differentition?
-10) HP Gains over stock?

Just playing Devils Advocate here so please dont take it like I am criticizing your design.

Cheers

cp

[Mike Desi]

Wait, let me unhook it from the seat of my pants real world dyno and see if I can come up with some impressive numbers. All I know is that:

-1) the size of the newly installed IC has approx 75% more volume than the OEM unit. So I'm guessing more is better.
-2)the FMIC must get better airflow in the front location I moved it to. (not sure though without a windtunnel test though).
-3)the IC is secured in three locations, two on the bottom, and one on the top. (I test fit the unit with only the top mount and it was very secure with just that).
-4)there is a nice long hill that is over a mile long that I love to speed up at 80-90mph with both the urq and S4. It's 1009 feet above sea level. I can normally reach 24psi for about 8-10 seconds with the S4 before it slowly starts creeping down because of heat soak. Now (not sure why the psi would increase), I can reach 26psi and hold it for twice as long. The only problem is that I think I heard it pinging on my last run.
-5)The nice thing about this FMIC install is that I didn't need any specially welded pieces, just the silicone couplers and a few elbows. That's what makes it nice for the average guy to do.
-6)not trying the Garrett core, all I know is that the differentition between the one I purchased and the Garrett is $220!

I don't mind your questions and observations. Normally someone will build something that works fine, and then the engineers have to wonder why it works so well without all the measurements, calculations, and tests.

[90sportin]

so all those parts with shipping came out to less than 500, how long did it take you to install all of this? are you rs2'd? i think ur car is sick, i want that front bumper too.

so that intercooler will last just as long as those 500 dollar ones

[Mike Desi]

get all the parts beforehand. I had the car apart and was picking up the parts one-by-one that I thought I'd need. Some worked, some didn't. (I have a few couplers, clamps, and aluminum pipe left over if anyone needs it). You can easily expand on my install and make it work as well. I don't see why one intercooler would "last" longer than another. The unit I used seems well made, and is chrome plated which should help against corrosion/oxidation.

[UR-Idiot Savant-S6]