ricoblanco

It seems the plastic tabs that hold the PC board on to the face of the unit were broken. So when I tried to push the buttons, the PC board would push back and not let the little rubber membrane switches make contact.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/cc_unit_1.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/cc_unit_3.jpg">


So, after trying Super Glue, I decided the best way to attack this issue was to roll up some thin (1/16" thick, 1" wide) foam weather stripping with an adhesive backing to a 1/4" height. I stuck them in the four positions shown:

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/cc_unit_2.jpg">

By doing this, there is now a buffer between the PC board and the rear housing, preventing the PC board from moving backwards. I put the unit back together and tested it, and now the buttons work perfectly! No more fighting with them to try to get my CC unit to work.

<b>**Extra Bonus**</b> I was also able to replace the mini bulbs in my side view mirror direction switch while I was in there.

I didn't see a solution anywhere on this forum so I thought I would share!

Bad Justin

so trying it tomorrow ...I don't think my HU is shot I think THIS may be the issue . thanx bro!

austinado16

You could pack the epoxy putty right round the corners and over the existing broken tabs. If you kept the circuit board held in position with a tight wrap of tape or a couple of zip ties, the putty would cure in about 10-15min and probably be a permanent fix.

Bad Justin

<center><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/JDeL13365/004-1.jpg"></center><p>same clip too the two top ones, the top left more so than the top right.

ricoblanco

It has been added to the FAQ's.

ricoblanco

Right on! Thanks!

islingtonaudi

I changed stereo HU and can get to the switch from the side but I don't know how it comes out. Any advice is helpful, I'd like to avoid pulling out the CC unit.

ricoblanco

<b>Tools Needed:</b>
Radio removal keys
8mm Nut driver or socket wrench
Two flathead jewelers screwdrivers
Needle nose pliers
15-25W Soldering iron
Rosin core solder

<b>Bulbs Needed:</b>
12W mini bulbs (2) RadioShack part # 272-1092


The first thing that needs to be done is to remove the radio (be sure to have the code on hand). I obviously don't have the factory radio anymore, so I already have easy access to the trim piece.

Once that is out, you can remove the wood trim piece that surrounds the climate control unit. Place your fingers on the spots shown and carefully pull the trim piece off.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/removetrim.jpg">


Here is what the tabs look like that hold the piece on. As you can see, they are pretty sturdy so I don't think you have to worry about breaking them.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Trimtab.jpg">


Now you can access the 8mm screw that holds the switch housing on:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/8mmscrew.jpg">


Use the 8mm nut driver or socket wrench to remove the screw:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Removebolt.jpg">


Pull the switch housing out of the dash and remove the connector:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/removeconnector.jpg">


Now you can start dissecting the switch. Notice the two white tabs with the loops sticking out. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pull the loop back as shown. While that is pulled back, use another small flathead screwdriver to pry the inner switch housing from the shell. Be careful and patient when doing this so you don't break anything.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Pullbacktab.jpg">


Now stick the small flathead screwdriver into the back of the housing as shown and carefully separate the inner housing from the shell.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/prywithscrewdriverback.jpg">


Once the shell is removed, the housing has to be separated. Insert the small flathead screwdriver in between the brown tab and the black housing (to the left of the red arrow) and carefully pry upwards. Just a little bit until it is separated. Repeat on the other side.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Pryupmiddletab.jpg">


Now insert the screwdriver in between the white tab and the housing as shown. Take the other screwdriver and wedge it between the brown piece and the black housing to pry it up. Repeat with the other white tab.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/prywithscrewdriver.jpg">


It should now look like this:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/tabsout.jpg">


Finally, separate the two brown tabs from the housing in the rear. <b><i>CAREFULLY</i></b> separate the two pieces. <b>Note:</b> Be very careful that the two small ball bearings don't fall out. If they do, it's no big deal to put them back on, just don't lose them.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/SeparatePCB.jpg">
<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Ballbearings.jpg">


Ever so carefully, remove the black rubber PC board shield.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/PCBshield.jpg">


Now to remove the bulbs, I just used a soldering iron to melt the solder connections and pulled the bulbs out. If you wish, you may use a desoldering pump or wick, but it was not needed. The bulbs pulled out cleanly and the new ones dropped right in. If there is some residual solder in the holes, just heat the pads up prior to inserting the leads from the bulb.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/solder.jpg">


Solder the bulbs into place. Clip off the excess leads.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/foilsidePCB.jpg">


Now, it is a good idea to use a multimeter to test for continuity at this point. If you don't have a meter, no big whoop, you will just have to hope the bulbs don't have any cold solder joints. You will know for sure when everything is put back together and you plug the switch back in.


Now put the black rubber PC board shield back on.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/PCBshield.jpg">


Slide the PC board into the brown housing. It will snap into place.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/FAinsertPCB.jpg">


Insert the PC board assembly into the black housing, lining the bulbs up with the holes as shown. Be careful with the ball bearings.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/FAinsertintoholes.jpg">


Press together and snap into place. The PC board assembly should be flush with the black housing as shown. The white tabs should be snapped into place as well.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/FAlockedin.jpg">

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/FAtabsinplace.jpg">


Now snap the shell onto the housing:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Installface.jpg">


Plug the connector back into the switch.
Now turn the ignition to ON. Do the lights work? Yes? OK, you're good to go!

Fasten switch housing to the dash with the 8mm screw. Reinstall the wood trim piece, pressing into place as shown.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Installtrim.jpg">


Success!! Enjoy your illuminated switch. Oooo, pretty!

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Lampsworking.jpg">