rmccomiskie

Concert I Installation in a 97 A6 Sedan with Bose

I replaced the Delta CC radio with a Concert because I need to control a Phatnoise to be installed in the trunk. Here's how I did it.

Remove the Delta

This is the easy part. Insert radio removal tools (from eBay) and slide the radio out. Remove all connectors from the back of the radio.

To make it easier to work under the dash, I removed the driver's knee panel. Remove the black vent guide at the bottom (2 10mm bolts), pop out the 2 plastic plugs in the knee panel and remove (4 10mm bolts) and wiggle the panel off.

Route the K-Line

I cut a piece of 18 gauge wire about 4 feet long and crimped a ring connector to one end. I attached the ring connector to the post with a stack of other connectors inside the relay box under the hood. Route the wire down through the bottom of the relay box. I taped a piece of weedwhacker line to the end of the wire to make it easier to push through to the driver's footwell. Route the wire across and out through the radio housing. Set it aside for later.

Install the Bose amplifier relay

I found that the Concert would not trigger the Bose amplifier in my car. I bought an ordinary 12V/30 amp relay at AutoZone for $4. The relay feeds a full 12V to the amplifier when turned on by the radio. I crimped spade connectors to 4 pieces of wire (1 ea - 48", 3 ea - 18"). I mounted the relay behind the outside mirror switch. There's just enough space so the radio clears the relay.

Wiring

Now the scary part...cutting wires. There's only 2 wires that need to be cut:
(1) red/blue, black connector pin 3. The K-Line attaches to the connector end, the harness end feeds 12V to the amplifier relay 12V input.
(2) white/black, yellow connector pin 6. The relay coil attaches to the connector end, the relay 12V output attaches to the harness end.

NOTE: The Concert install procedure on S-Cars.org recommends using pin 15 on the blue connector for the amplifier trigger. Pin 15 on the Concert is the CD changer clock line. That won't work as an amplifier trigger. Use pin 6 on the yellow connector. It is switched 12V intended to trigger the Bose amplifier.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/56914/concert_relay.jpg" />

I used inline crimp connectors for the harness connections.

1. I cut the red/blue wire (black connector, pin 3) making sure to leave it long enough behind the connector to work with.

I stripped both ends about 1/4", crimped the K-Line to the connector end of the wire and crimped the relay 12V input line to the harness end of the same wire.

2. Next, I cut and stripped the white/black wire (yellow connector, pin 6), crimped the relay coil input wire to the connector end, and crimped the relay 12V output wire to the harness end.

3. Finally, I routed the long wire from the relay coil ground through the back of the radio enclosure across to the relay bank in the driver's footwell. There's an easy to reach nut on the right end of the relay bank. It's a good chassis ground. Put another washer under the nut and attach the relay ground on top of that washer.

Install the Concert

Now the smoke test. I inserted all connectors in the back of the Concert, slid it part way into the dash enclosure, turned on the ignition, and turned the radio on...nothing! Puzzled, I started pushing connectors on the back of the radio. When I got to the FM antenna connector, the radio came alive??? I guess it must be grounded through the antenna cable.

I bought the Concert on eBay and it didn't come with a code but it wasn't necessary. It started up right away in Bose mode. Judging by the harness that came with the radio, it must have come from a Bose equipped car.

Anyway, I pushed the radio into place, reinstalled the driver's knee panel and sat back to admire a perfectly functioning Concert in a C4. I'm thrilled.

Oh! Almost forgot. I hooked up VAG-COM and there was the radio controller. Sweet!

chocoheston

Here is how I replaced my thermostat without removing the timing belt. I have a 1993 100CSq. Your car will probably be slightly different.

Materials/tools needed:
Thermostat
o-ring
Serp belt (optional)
Distilled water
Antifreeze
10mm socket
10mm Allen (socket is best)
5mm Allen
1/4" drift (I used a drill bit: Ghetto!)

Drain the coolant. While that's trickling out, you can:

Remove plastic cover from top of engine.
Remove plastic serp belt cover. 4 5mm allen bolts.

Remove the serp belt:
Stick the 10mm allen into the hexagonal receptacle on the tensioner arm next to tensioner pulley. Push, rotating the tensioner arm clockwise. That will release the tension on the belt. The Bentley says something about using a 15mm wrench here. I have nothing of the sort on my engine. Maybe you do.
There's an eyelet on the rotating portion of the tensioner arm and a hole on the fixed part. Shove the drift through when they are lined up.
You can remove the Serp belt easily now.
Use the 10mm Allen to unscrew the bolt that holds the tensioner on. It comes off as a unit, don't worry about it springing apart upon removal. It's also keyed, so you don't have to worry about aligning it later.

Remove the plastic timing belt cover: Mine is held on by 2 metal clips and some plastic tabs. Don't break one of the tabs like I did. It pulls out up and to the left.

Mark the position of the timing belt's teeth on the cam sprocket. Just in case.

Carefully! pull the timing belt forward on the sprocket and idler pulley. Maybe 1/4" will do. Do not pull it completely off.

Remove the 2 10mm bolts that attach the thermostat housing. One is right in the middle. The other is in the upper right, behind the large serp belt pulley. I used a u-joint and later my small 1/4" drive socket wrench to get at this one.

Position the catch pan under the front of the engine. You're probably going to lose more anti here.

You can now carefully pull the housing off. Down, forward and to the left. It will be a tight fit, be careful.

Now you're looking at the thermostat. Pull it out. I had to pry mine out.

Insert new thermostat and o-ring. Edit: be sure the bubble valve is at 12 o'clock. (thanks austinado16)

Slap it all back together. Assembly is the reverse...

Refill your cooling system and bleed the air out.


Thanks to austinado16 whose post supplied the idea and confidence to do this procedure.

austinado16

Nice! Remember to install the t-stat with the bubble valve at 12 o'clock.

Evol

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1594531.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1594531.phtml</a</li></ul>

rmccomiskie

Handy for comparing different tire and wheel size combinations.

<a href="http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html">Tire Size Calculator</a>

berlina

<ul><li><a href="http://s-cars.org/postnuke/downloads/pdf/Audi%20UrS%20TT%20HID%20Low%20Beam%20Retrofit.pdf" >writeup courtesy of S-Cars.org</a></li></ul>

austinado16

Fuel Pump:

austinado16

You're probably here because your car won't start. Or, as in the case of one forum member; it was running fine one minute, when restarted after about 15min, all it would do was idle poorly, not take throttle and then die. On subsequent restart attemps, it repeated this behavior until it finally wouldn't fire up at all....

Proceed as follows:
1) Crack a fitting loose at the fuel filter which is located up top on the front of the right strut tower just rearward of the air filter box.
2) Crank the starter over and watch for fuel spray out of your loosened fitting. If you don't get a nice spray of fuel, you've got a fuel pump that is innoperative for some reason: It's either not getting voltage, or it's failed internally. Let's find out why.

The fuel pump relay is located in the right most position (position 6) of the central relay panel under the driver's side of the dash.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58837/central_electric_panel.jpg">
To get to it, you remove that lower knee bolster below the steering column. Should be maybe 3 plastic plugs that you carefully pick out. Under them you'll find bolts that come out using a 10mm socket.

I can't remember, but that bolster may sort of slot into the framework. So if it doesn't just come right down, you may need to slide it upward a bit to unlock it.

Fuel pump relays have 2 huge spades that are perpendicular to each other like this:
"l -".
Those corresponding female positions in the relay board are what you'll be jumping (after removing the relay of course) and yes, just grab a piece of wire, bend into a "U" shape and strip a bit off the ends. If you want to get really crafty, crimp on some male spades and use something like 10ga wire.
Here's what the relay looks like:
<img src="http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/4D0951253.jpg">
<img src="http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/443951253L.jpg">
$33-$35 at www.autohausaz.com
Since the female positions are so large, you might need to tweak your stripped ends in order to make a good connection.

Jump those positions and you should have fuel spraying out of the loose fitting at the fuel filter. If you don't, make sure that you have 12v at one of those female spade positions. To check for voltage, grab your volt meter or 12v trouble light. Stick your red meter probe into one of the female spade positions and ground the other lead. If you don't get voltage, test using the other female position. Make sure what you're touching for a ground is really a ground!

If you still don't get voltage there is a fuel pump fuse in the fuse compartment located there on the end panel of the driver's side dash facing the driver's door in position number 17. Pry off the dash panel "door" and you'll see all the fuses. There should be a little tool in the fuse cover "door" that grips the fuses nicely so you can pop #17 out.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58837/fuse_panel.jpg">
If you've got 12v, then you know the pump is gone bad, or the wireing to the pump from the relay is bad.
<img src="http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/69420.jpg">
$151 at www.autohausaz.com
There are many OE online parts suppliers, and www.autohausaz.com will probably be your best parts source with free shipping on orders over $50. But, check around. Buy only OE brands.

Remember when doing all these tests, make sure you have 12v back at the fuel pump too. Be a shame to throw a $150 pump at it only to find out a wire got rubbed through under the back seat or something.

Rafa ct

i need to fix the light for my power mirror direction switch a6 quatro wagon. It works but the light does not come on? i took it out but it is kind of tricky to take it apart i guess. Is there a bulb you in there i need to change? Also i want to upgrade to HID lights could any of you guys recomend a good place from where to get them? A lot of options but just do not know from where to get them?

Thanks for your time and experience!

austinado16

Please repost your questions to the C4 100/A6 forum where they will be promptly answered.