How to convert IR system to RF
#1
How to convert IR system to RF
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46439/audialarm.jpg"></center><p>The stock IR remotes' range stinks and the key is too big. I picked a Prestige APS25KB alarm system to interface because it was cheap ($45 wholesale/$45+shipping on Ebay), and it has door lock outputs. The APS25 can do a lot of things, but all I want is increased range on the factory alarm (no annoying sirens, no auto start etc.). Also, I shut all the DIP switches off on the APS25 because I didn't want it to automatically lock the car (passive=lock keys in car). Because you are connecting the APS25 in parallel to the factory alarm, the interior lights will work with the RF on disarm, the horn will toot on arm and the IR will still function (you won't want to use it anymore!). This setup will work on all 100?A6 IR systems. I didn't look into other series (90), but if the colors and pins are the same it should work. As far as the replacement key goes, find a good locksmith that makes a key that has a plastic cover on the top where it goes through the ring. They are stronger and look better. Have the car with you to test the key, so if tit doesn't work perfectly the locksmith can fix it.
There are 5 wires you must connect to on the factory harness. The red/gray (+12volt) and the brown(-12volt) wires on the blue plug. The brown/green (disarms the factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), the brown/gray (locks all doors/arms factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), and the green/blue (unlocks all doors when it gets a 12volt+ signal) wires on the black plug. The reason you have to connect the green/blue wire is because you have to turn the key in the door twice to unlock all the doors. Since there is no way to pulse the ground signal twice to the brown/green wire, firing green/blue simultaneously will disarm and unlock. The reason I used the relays are to isolate positive and negative voltage from the factory control unit. The APS25 flip-flops the voltage on lock/unlock and I didn't want to take a chance putting positive voltage to a negative input and frying the factory control ($$$$). Maybe someone else has tried it and can give some input, but I prefer to be safe and stick to the factory design.
You will need the following:
Prestige APS25 or equivalent (must have negative pulse lock/unlock to work with the above diagram.)
3 SPDT automotive relays and bases with lead (standard black cubes)-DIODES REMOVED!!!
Soldering iron
Solder and electrical tape
THESE INSTRUCTIONS WORKED FOR ME-INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
Directions
1.Remove the backseat bottom
2. Disconnect and remove the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE!)
3. Next to the battery is a large block of foam. Slide this out towards the battery holder. Inside you will find the central locking/alarm control unit. Disconnect the 3 plugs and leave the hose on the bottom connected.
4. Using a razor blade, remove a small section of insulation from the red/gray (pin 1) and the brown (pin 3) wires on the blue plug and the brown/green (pin3), brown/gray (pin4), and the green/blue (pin5) wires on the black plug.
5.Following the wiring diagram, splice, solder, and tape the 5 connections. Make good solid connections, so there are no problems later on.
6.Tape all the wires into a harness that will allow the APS25 to be installed under the plastic wheel well cover, and the 3 relays to be installed on top of the foam block.
7.Re-install the central locking/alarm control unit, being careful not to pinch the hose coming out of the bottom.
8.Install the APS25 under the plastic wheel well cover, stretching the antenna wire up and pinching the end between the plastic wheel well cover and the rubber door molding. This is to improve the reception. The cover and the seat will hold it in place, so you don't need to screw it down.
9. Tape the 3 relays together and slide the mounting tabs in between the foam block and the metal bar on top of it. The seat holds everything in place.
10.Re-install the battery.
11.When you first connect the battery the APS25 will click numerous times. When it stops, you can test the system.
12.Enjoy opening the door from FAR away!
Good Luck!
Jody 1993 CS100 Quattro Wagon Pearl/Black 145K
There are 5 wires you must connect to on the factory harness. The red/gray (+12volt) and the brown(-12volt) wires on the blue plug. The brown/green (disarms the factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), the brown/gray (locks all doors/arms factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), and the green/blue (unlocks all doors when it gets a 12volt+ signal) wires on the black plug. The reason you have to connect the green/blue wire is because you have to turn the key in the door twice to unlock all the doors. Since there is no way to pulse the ground signal twice to the brown/green wire, firing green/blue simultaneously will disarm and unlock. The reason I used the relays are to isolate positive and negative voltage from the factory control unit. The APS25 flip-flops the voltage on lock/unlock and I didn't want to take a chance putting positive voltage to a negative input and frying the factory control ($$$$). Maybe someone else has tried it and can give some input, but I prefer to be safe and stick to the factory design.
You will need the following:
Prestige APS25 or equivalent (must have negative pulse lock/unlock to work with the above diagram.)
3 SPDT automotive relays and bases with lead (standard black cubes)-DIODES REMOVED!!!
Soldering iron
Solder and electrical tape
THESE INSTRUCTIONS WORKED FOR ME-INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
Directions
1.Remove the backseat bottom
2. Disconnect and remove the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE!)
3. Next to the battery is a large block of foam. Slide this out towards the battery holder. Inside you will find the central locking/alarm control unit. Disconnect the 3 plugs and leave the hose on the bottom connected.
4. Using a razor blade, remove a small section of insulation from the red/gray (pin 1) and the brown (pin 3) wires on the blue plug and the brown/green (pin3), brown/gray (pin4), and the green/blue (pin5) wires on the black plug.
5.Following the wiring diagram, splice, solder, and tape the 5 connections. Make good solid connections, so there are no problems later on.
6.Tape all the wires into a harness that will allow the APS25 to be installed under the plastic wheel well cover, and the 3 relays to be installed on top of the foam block.
7.Re-install the central locking/alarm control unit, being careful not to pinch the hose coming out of the bottom.
8.Install the APS25 under the plastic wheel well cover, stretching the antenna wire up and pinching the end between the plastic wheel well cover and the rubber door molding. This is to improve the reception. The cover and the seat will hold it in place, so you don't need to screw it down.
9. Tape the 3 relays together and slide the mounting tabs in between the foam block and the metal bar on top of it. The seat holds everything in place.
10.Re-install the battery.
11.When you first connect the battery the APS25 will click numerous times. When it stops, you can test the system.
12.Enjoy opening the door from FAR away!
Good Luck!
Jody 1993 CS100 Quattro Wagon Pearl/Black 145K
#2
Really appreciate it, Jody! Great job! I'm going to get right on it. One question >>
...on the 3 SPDT relays: "with lead" I guess means they come with pigtails rather than terminals? Presume you got them at a auto parts supply store.
#3
The relays
are standard issue automotive relays. You actually get one with the APS25 to use as the the starter disconnect. Any alarm/radio shop should have plenty on hand. I am in the automotive business, and have a bunch of them laying around. I'll try to remember to bring one home and post a pic.
Jody
Jody
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
wow maybe this is a fix for me
hi, my remote locks haven't worked for a long time. i tried the proc to reprogram them a couple times and even got the horn to beep once, but nothing and i gave up. been using the key and it's harder than hell to find the hole in the dark.
given that, what are the chances this set up will get me back in business and actually be able to use a remote?
next, finding the Prestige APS25KB alarm system: i looked on ebay and saw all kinds of alarm systems, (bulldog, blue scanning, excalibur and others). are any the same as the prestige? where would i find the prestige other than ebay?
i thought i was doomed to using my key forevere, but maybe you saved me.
jim
given that, what are the chances this set up will get me back in business and actually be able to use a remote?
next, finding the Prestige APS25KB alarm system: i looked on ebay and saw all kinds of alarm systems, (bulldog, blue scanning, excalibur and others). are any the same as the prestige? where would i find the prestige other than ebay?
i thought i was doomed to using my key forevere, but maybe you saved me.
jim
#6
A quick test
When you lock the door with the key, does the horn beep? When you turn the key twice to unlock, do all the doors open? If you answered yes to both questions then the central lock/alarm controller is functioning. If you answer no, there may be some other problem. Let me know. Here is a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3010657107&cat egory=3293
Jody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3010657107&cat egory=3293
Jody
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#8
Re: How to convert IR system to RF
Will this system chirp when locking or unlocking the doors? Can it be set so the lights blink also? I am looking for the feel of a new car keyless entry, without actually buying a newer car. Thanks =)
#9
Re: How to convert IR system to RF
On my 97 A6, I don't have a Green /Blue Wire.At least according to the Bentley wiring diagram.
How can I get a double pulse to do the unlock signal?
Also. Does anyone know if the single turn of the key works to unlock only the drivers door? Mine does not.
Regards
CalG
How can I get a double pulse to do the unlock signal?
Also. Does anyone know if the single turn of the key works to unlock only the drivers door? Mine does not.
Regards
CalG
#10
Re: How to convert IR system to RF
I just did this on my car - thanks for the diagrams and explanations. I have a few tips:
1. Get the APS25CH instead of APS25KB. The CH adds code-hopping and double-pulse unlock. You can eliminate the need to connect to the disarm wire.
2. The APS25CH does indeed flip-flop between positive and ground pulses when you lock or unlock. Instead of using relays, I used diodes. Solder the diode inline with the wires connecting to the factory harness. Make sure the diode is facing in the right direction! Diodes are cheap (50 cents at Radio Shack), much smaller, and more reliable because they're solid-state.
3. I didn't get around to doing this yet, but I plan to use one channel of the APS25CH to trigger the sunroof/window close feature.
1. Get the APS25CH instead of APS25KB. The CH adds code-hopping and double-pulse unlock. You can eliminate the need to connect to the disarm wire.
2. The APS25CH does indeed flip-flop between positive and ground pulses when you lock or unlock. Instead of using relays, I used diodes. Solder the diode inline with the wires connecting to the factory harness. Make sure the diode is facing in the right direction! Diodes are cheap (50 cents at Radio Shack), much smaller, and more reliable because they're solid-state.
3. I didn't get around to doing this yet, but I plan to use one channel of the APS25CH to trigger the sunroof/window close feature.