H-sport install, pics and tips! Very long!!!

All Italian · 08-26-2003, 11:35 AM

Here is my story! I did the job myself and I am a bit careful and compulsive so it took me 5 hours.

Rear first.

Put on level 4 then drive up ramps. Use 1 or 2 floor jacks to support exhaust (1 will work just fine but I had 2). I unbolted the exhaust instead of squeezing out of the mounts ( I found that much easier to do).

After exhaust is lowered unbolt sway brackets then end bolts.
I loosened the end bolts from the front side of the car not the rear. It was much easier to get to them but you must first take off a rubber/plastic piece of protection plate. This plate keeps road debris from hitting the shocks etc. 2 bolts and the plate is off.

Loosen the 16mm end bolt and remove nut. Push the end link toward the rear of the car with one hand and the other hand will grab the bolt and pull it out once it can clear the shock.

Remove old sway.
Install new sway in reverse order. The end bolts are the hardest thing to do but if you are in front of the rear use one hand to push that end link and the other hand to push in the bolt once the end link has cleared the shock. And make sure that the bolt goes into the sway first then end link!!!!! Kind of hard but from the front pushing back it is not bad.
Tighten down. I was not able to get a torque wrench on the rear end bolts so I approximated 60 ft/lbs. Which means very tight.

Jack up the exhaust and bolt center and rear mounts!

The front!

LOWER CAR TO LEVEL 1!!!!!! Will explain later!
Drive up ramps.
Remove pan. I bought a pack of Torx fittings at the local auto store for $10. You will need 2 different sizes for this.
Unbolt sway bracket and end bolts. Remove old bars.

The new bars come with plate brackets that have to come between the old bracket mount and the new bar.
I just used a little tape to keep them in place while I pulled the new sway bar up against them since I do not have 3 hands. Bolt on the clamps then turn up the sway bars toward the end link. On level 1 they almost glide into place!!! At level 4 there is no way to spread out the end links enough to slide them in place. I know I was at level 4 and very frustrated until I went to level 1 and it was easy! Tighten down all bolts. H-sport said that the end link bolts are at 75ft/lbs. They did not feel that tight when I took them off so I torqued them to 60 ft/lbs.

Drive around a curvy road for 5 miles and check all bolts and torques.
Pics below!

Rear set up!

Stock rear sway bar.

Exhaust down.

H-Sport rear sway installed.

Close up of rear endlink with sway on inside of endlink!!!

Stock front!

H-Sport front.

Enjoy!
Ciao
Review to follow!!!

Milpitas2.7T · 08-26-2003, 12:36 PM

RobSo · 08-27-2003, 08:12 PM

fun of me cause I have no mechanical skillz.

Milpitas2.7T · 08-27-2003, 09:11 PM

offer my assitance

RobSo · 08-28-2003, 06:31 AM

Milpower · 09-29-2004, 07:10 PM

It is nearly in the exact center of the picture, except it off to the left a little bit.

Lindward · 08-07-2007, 12:48 PM

08-26-2003, 11:35 AM	#1
All Italian Junior Member Account #: 41143 Join Date: Aug 2002 Posts: 1,500	H-sport install, pics and tips! Very long!!! Here is my story! I did the job myself and I am a bit careful and compulsive so it took me 5 hours. Rear first. Put on level 4 then drive up ramps. Use 1 or 2 floor jacks to support exhaust (1 will work just fine but I had 2). I unbolted the exhaust instead of squeezing out of the mounts ( I found that much easier to do). After exhaust is lowered unbolt sway brackets then end bolts. I loosened the end bolts from the front side of the car not the rear. It was much easier to get to them but you must first take off a rubber/plastic piece of protection plate. This plate keeps road debris from hitting the shocks etc. 2 bolts and the plate is off. Loosen the 16mm end bolt and remove nut. Push the end link toward the rear of the car with one hand and the other hand will grab the bolt and pull it out once it can clear the shock. Remove old sway. Install new sway in reverse order. The end bolts are the hardest thing to do but if you are in front of the rear use one hand to push that end link and the other hand to push in the bolt once the end link has cleared the shock. And make sure that the bolt goes into the sway first then end link!!!!! Kind of hard but from the front pushing back it is not bad. Tighten down. I was not able to get a torque wrench on the rear end bolts so I approximated 60 ft/lbs. Which means very tight. Jack up the exhaust and bolt center and rear mounts! The front! LOWER CAR TO LEVEL 1!!!!!! Will explain later! Drive up ramps. Remove pan. I bought a pack of Torx fittings at the local auto store for $10. You will need 2 different sizes for this. Unbolt sway bracket and end bolts. Remove old bars. The new bars come with plate brackets that have to come between the old bracket mount and the new bar. I just used a little tape to keep them in place while I pulled the new sway bar up against them since I do not have 3 hands. Bolt on the clamps then turn up the sway bars toward the end link. On level 1 they almost glide into place!!! At level 4 there is no way to spread out the end links enough to slide them in place. I know I was at level 4 and very frustrated until I went to level 1 and it was easy! Tighten down all bolts. H-sport said that the end link bolts are at 75ft/lbs. They did not feel that tight when I took them off so I torqued them to 60 ft/lbs. Drive around a curvy road for 5 miles and check all bolts and torques. Pics below! Rear set up! Stock rear sway bar. Exhaust down. H-Sport rear sway installed. Close up of rear endlink with sway on inside of endlink!!! Stock front! H-Sport front. Enjoy! Ciao Review to follow!!! __________________ 2003 Allroad, Atlas gray, Tip, SOLD! Nav,park, V1 hardwired! Ice-Link iPod installed. Mud flaps, Stuby antenna. 245/45/18 OEM & PZero Rosso, summer 225/55/17 OEM & Nokian RSi, winter H-sport sways ! My H-sport install! The 402 Mod (how to)! Bosch N110 BPV GIAC Tip Chip My GIAC Tip Chip install! APR ECU Chip, stock/91 octane My APR install! Llumar tint 35% F&R All window's controled from remote! Window codes! 2003 Eurovan weekender To many bicycles to mention!!!

08-26-2003, 12:36 PM	#2
Milpitas2.7T Elder Member Account #: 6383 Join Date: Jun 2000 Posts: 25,962	w00t! waiting for review. __________________

08-27-2003, 08:12 PM	#3
RobSo Member Account #: 27528 Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 2,690	Great write up!!! I'm almost inspired to do this myself. :) And Tory, don't you make fun of me cause I have no mechanical skillz.

08-27-2003, 09:11 PM	#4
Milpitas2.7T Elder Member Account #: 6383 Join Date: Jun 2000 Posts: 25,962	A few basic tools, a few pepsi's no rush and it's a fun excersize! Again if you were local I would offer my assitance __________________

08-28-2003, 06:31 AM	#5
RobSo Member Account #: 27528 Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 2,690	I know you would buddy. That's it, I'll do it myself. :)

09-29-2004, 07:10 PM	#6
Milpower Junior Member Account #: 77906 Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 1,659	Yes, the second picture shows it...it looks white and connected to the sway bar. It is nearly in the exact center of the picture, except it off to the left a little bit. __________________ 2000 Lake Silver Metallic TTQC POWER: Modshack VTDA and MoFo w/4bar FPR (VAG-adjusted) \| 034 Phenolic Spacer \| Pulstar plugs gapped @ .030 RUNNING GEAR: Koni FSD Struts and Shocks \| MCPi DEFCON3 \| 034 Tranny/Motor Mounts \| Powerflex Dogbone ENGINE/TRANNY: Hose Technique Vacuum hoses \| SAIP Air Inlet Relo \| Eng- Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck; Tranny/Diff- Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W-90 COSMO: Forge Shift Knob \| Modshack TT Cupholder NUANCE: Rear Deck seal 114K and performing brilliantly!

08-07-2007, 12:48 PM	#7
Lindward Member Account #: 85583 Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 2,361	appreciate it...thanks!

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