Raceware Head Studs installed (finally)

[xr4tic]

There are two types of head bolts used in the 1.8T
The older 1.8Ts used a 11mm bolt.
The newer 1.8Ts used a 10mm bolt.

I have no idea how you tell them apart without removing one. The threads on my 11mm bolts measured about 0.425" (~10.8mm) in diameter.
I think all the nonDBW use 11mm, and all the DBW use 10mm, but I don't know for sure. The socket type could be an indicator as well, mine required a triple square socket bit to remove, the newer ones use a 6 point posi-drive bit (the head stud kit requires the same thing)

When ordering the studs from Raceware, you must specify which kit you need. I got one of the first kits they made, in 10mm size. I had to wait until they finished producing the 11mm kit before I could trade up.

Anyways, here's the pics:

The stock head bolt vs. the stud/nut is on the right.





You can supposedly put the studs in with the head installed, but it would have been a PITA (and you still have to drain the coolant)
I decided to just go ahead and pull the head, I wanted to check to see if there were any signs of detonation on my pistons (there were none) It's really not that bad, just leave the turbo and manifolds connected to the head.

All I can say is to make sure to follow the directions. Clean out the bolt holes with some carb cleaner or something, thread a tap in there to remove any extra junk, and put the studs in (WITHOUT any moly lube or whatever) The studs should not be installed all the way into the block, they must stick out at least 89mm to allow the nuts enough threads to hold.

You'll also need a new head gasket, get it from the dealer. NAPA wanted $60 for the gasket, and it wasn't in stock, the dealer wanted $33 for it, and it was in stock. NAPA and the dealer both had Victor-Reinz gaskets.
This was an ABA gasket, the actual 1.8T gaskets might be more.

Cost was $200, from http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/

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[xr4tic]

Basically, drain the coolant and oil, remove the coil packs and ground strap, the turbo oil feed and return lines, the turbo water feed and return lines, cat/downpipe, inlet and outlet tubing, and turbo brace (if there is one) Of course, if you have a K03, you could probably just unbolt the turbo from the manifold, and leave the rest of the stuff connected.
Then remove the throttle body hose, TB brace, TB connectors, TB cable (nonDBW), some vacuum connections, a coolant hose from the back of the head, and the timing belt.

Like I said, easy

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all the bolts are accessible? torque specs? thanks

[xr4tic]

I used a magnet to get the bolts out of the recesses, but

The torque specs are listed in the instructions, I think it was 3 steps - 20, 40, 55 ft lbs.

Check the Bentley manual for the correct torque sequence.

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