Turbo Timer install instructions (2000)

[sTTanford]

Alright, for those who want to do this yourself, these instructions should save you a few hours of R&D. This install was done on a 2000 TT using a GReddy turbo timer (ver 3?). I used all of the stop modes, ebrake and speedometer.

DISCLAIMER: Do at your own risk. I'm not a professional. I assume no responsibility for any harm you may cause following my instructions.

1. Disconnect battery ground terminal
2. Remove lower dash (4, 5 torx, then pull, carefully)

3. Remove instrument cluster

-once you've removed the two screws, lower the steering wheel. pull the bottom of the cluster out first. soon you should be able to see a blue wire connector on the passenger side of the cluster. pull the purple clip to release the connector. that should allow you to pull the cluster to the right a bit. remove the gray and green wire connectors the same way.



4. Connect e-brake and speedometer wires
-for the greddy, these are the brown and purple wires, respectively

e-brake is brown/red wire on green harness

speedo (output1) is blue/white wire on blue harness
-i tapped into the e-brake light, rather than digging thru the paneling looking for the right wire.
- you can double check your wiring by pulling the purple clip off the connector and exposing the wires more. i would recomend soldering these joints rather than T-connectors, in case you damage the thin wires.

5. Ignition wires
-look to the lower left of the steering column. you should see a thick collection of wires, tied to a white support. remove the black friction tape to expose the wires:

-the GREEN igntion wire goes to the thick black wire
-the BLUE accessory wire goes to the thick black/red wire
-connect a red wire (that you bought) to the THIN yellow/red wire (there is also a thick one, be careful). this red wire will later connect to a relay that you must purchase.

6. Install relay
-the relay acts to give power to the instrument cluster when the key is removed. the cluster is linked to fuse 6 on the fuse panel. there is a black/blue thin gauge wire coming off of the back of it (there is only one wire coming out of fuse 6.
- cut the black/blue wire, giving yourself ample room on either end to solder wires.
- solder connections as depicted below


7. 12V constant wire (red wire into t-timer)
- these can be found all over. the one i used is shown here:

- again, this picture shows my test setup. i would solder all of these connections.

8. secure relay

-i stuck mine down with the rest of the factory relays
-save yourself some later trouble and buy a Bosch automotive relay (20/30A) from the get go
-you could even be clever and buy an OEM relay with the proper 4 (or 5) pin setup so that it snaps into place. (NOTE: if there is a pin 87A on the relay, cap it, and don't use it)

That's it. I do not claim ownership of this install faq completely. Credit goes to some guys over at VWVortex who figured out the basic setup. Our wires are a bit different, and our car requries both ignition and accessory wire to be hooked up separately, that's all i changed.

The alarm arms fine and the car locks with the car running. I've found that when my car is warming up, it idles rough enough that it sets off the car alarm because of the vibration sensor. This doesn't seem to be a problem (even if the car is vibrating) if the car only runs for 30 secs or so. I'm looking into ways to make the vibration sensor less sensitive, however, it hasn't been an issue so far when the car is warm (which it will usually be if the t-timer is active).

[Power5]

[TTStuff.com - Sales]

[RoninTT]

I remember a few people on vortex saying that they found cracks in it when they pulled it off their car later. Have you noticed anything like that or does it seem to be holding up.

Also, how was fitment under there with the bigger turbo? Did you have to do any structural modifications to make it fit, or did it just go right in?

Keep up the good work!

[JustJeff]

[sTTanford]

the advantage of working with Tomas Sport Tuning is that they do most of ATP's turbo installs and trouble-shooting work. Tim and I were fairly easily able to isolate the cracks to the wastegate mount flange. basically, the bolts weren't toleranced enough or something, such that the wastegate flange flexed in the middle, creating a tiny leak. The leak creates a heat concentration, which leads to a stress concentration, which leads to stress fractures, which is what all these cracks were (little, hairline fractures, not big gaping cracks).

I avoided this problem by designing my own wastegate bracket. In reality, i wasn't too peeved about having to do this because for TTs it is a necessity. ATP's flange brings the WG a few inches off the manifold. In my setup, the WG is below the manifold. unfortunately, if it is lowered 2", it hits the tranny. in fact, as is, i had to shave a tiny portion of one heat fin to get the feeds to fit.


here is the prototype bracket i made. the idea is that it is thin, it rotates the WG a bit so that the WG dump is pointing closer to the DP (which makes the piping easier).


the final version. 0.450" thick type 303 stainless, well spec'ed to deal with thermal expansion, of course.


ends up looking like this. view from passenger drive-axle, looking up at exh manifold.

[RoninTT]

I'm thinking this is the way I want to go so I'm glad that someone else is working these things out before I have to. :-D

[sTTanford]

Fotki link(You can get higher quality images from there)

Btw, i've had numerous request for this part to be made. I've considering taking orders. probably cost on the order of $75 a piece though. can always email me.

[RoninTT]

[ttrouble]