2.8 Camshaft tensioner seal replacement process

®ob · 05-27-2003, 10:10 AM

This is how to replace the camshaft adjuster seal on the head.
I won't bother with pics/details on how to get up to this step other than, of course you need to set the engine at TDC, make sure cams are ligned up, remove the valve cover etc. You don't need to remove the timing belt for this process which is very nice.
Once the cams are lined up and the engine is at TDC, to make it easier on yourself, grab some nail polish/paint marker and mark the marks on the chains on the cam and the one at the pulley for TDC. See the marks I made for the cam chain below. Notice the notch and the arrow line up with each other. Also, it is exactly 16 chain links to and from each notch. So keep that in mind for reassembly.

Next, install the special Audi tool for compressing the cam shaft tensioner. This tool is a MUST to do this job. Tighten it down, but be careful to not to go crazy. You should see slack in the chain once tightened like this.

Next, remove the bearing caps on the intake side. Make sure not to not mix them up or install them backwards. They are numbered which helps. You also need to undo the cam shaft position sensor. Once all the bearing caps are loose on the intake side, I also undid one exhaust cam bearing cap close the cam chain.

The cam probably won't pop right out, so grab a pair of channel locks and and grab the cam on the rough casting (where you won't hurt it) and wiggle the cam back and forth to loosen it. You'll need to remove the 13 mm nut that holds the power steering hose in place. It is located behind the head . Just follow the hose down and you'll see it. Once the cam is loose, you can then rotate the whole cam with chain attached to the side just enough to get the gasket out from underneath it. Reassembly is reverse of removal

Once reassembled, you want to rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything is OK. The 2.8 uses 24 MM 12 point socket on the main crank bolt. When you rotate, you'll see the cam chain marks won't line up again, that is normal. Just make sure there is 16 links apart from notch to notch and you are OK.

WYSIWYG · 05-27-2003, 10:15 AM

ok ok i'll let myself out

RKA · 05-27-2003, 10:16 AM

I take it this will end up in your tech section (just so I know where to look for it, if I ever need it)?

®ob · 05-27-2003, 10:18 AM

~~ModifiedA4~~ · 05-27-2003, 10:22 AM

moribundman · 05-27-2003, 10:42 AM

They should be similar to the ones on my 12v...

By the way, there's no camshaft tensioner in my 12v. This engine hasn't been overdeveloped. ;-)

®ob · 05-27-2003, 11:03 AM

**Kris Hansen** · 05-27-2003, 11:25 AM

Looks easy enough.. If only I had the time. My driver's side tensioner is bad, the passenger side one leaks.

moribundman · 05-27-2003, 11:26 AM

®ob · 05-27-2003, 01:49 PM

you would need to remove both cams, so yes, it would be requiring you to remove the belt.

How do you know your tensioner itself is bad?

05-27-2003, 10:10 AM	#1
®ob AudiWorld Super User Account #: 475 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 12,626	2.8 Camshaft tensioner seal replacement process This is how to replace the camshaft adjuster seal on the head. I won't bother with pics/details on how to get up to this step other than, of course you need to set the engine at TDC, make sure cams are ligned up, remove the valve cover etc. You don't need to remove the timing belt for this process which is very nice. Once the cams are lined up and the engine is at TDC, to make it easier on yourself, grab some nail polish/paint marker and mark the marks on the chains on the cam and the one at the pulley for TDC. See the marks I made for the cam chain below. Notice the notch and the arrow line up with each other. Also, it is exactly 16 chain links to and from each notch. So keep that in mind for reassembly. Next, install the special Audi tool for compressing the cam shaft tensioner. This tool is a MUST to do this job. Tighten it down, but be careful to not to go crazy. You should see slack in the chain once tightened like this. Next, remove the bearing caps on the intake side. Make sure not to not mix them up or install them backwards. They are numbered which helps. You also need to undo the cam shaft position sensor. Once all the bearing caps are loose on the intake side, I also undid one exhaust cam bearing cap close the cam chain. The cam probably won't pop right out, so grab a pair of channel locks and and grab the cam on the rough casting (where you won't hurt it) and wiggle the cam back and forth to loosen it. You'll need to remove the 13 mm nut that holds the power steering hose in place. It is located behind the head . Just follow the hose down and you'll see it. Once the cam is loose, you can then rotate the whole cam with chain attached to the side just enough to get the gasket out from underneath it. Reassembly is reverse of removal Once reassembled, you want to rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything is OK. The 2.8 uses 24 MM 12 point socket on the main crank bolt. When you rotate, you'll see the cam chain marks won't line up again, that is normal. Just make sure there is 16 links apart from notch to notch and you are OK. __________________ I used to own a B5 A4, now I have this and am never looking back.

05-27-2003, 10:15 AM	#2
WYSIWYG AudiWorld Super User Account #: 12079 Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 19,995	Where's the beef!?! ok ok i'll let myself out __________________ Edward Morfe

05-27-2003, 10:16 AM	#3
RKA Member Account #: 2062 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 67,038	Nice write up Rob! Thanks! I take it this will end up in your tech section (just so I know where to look for it, if I ever need it)? __________________ 2005.5 A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro 6MT APR 91/93/100 \| APR Exhaust \| 19" BBS RS-GT's \| Carbonio \| Hotchkis \| Partridge-in-a-pear-tree Others: 2006 TL on the block 2001 S4 sold 2000 A4 sold * September 11th, 2001 - Never Forget *

05-27-2003, 10:18 AM	#4
®ob AudiWorld Super User Account #: 475 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 12,626	Yes it will... __________________ I used to own a B5 A4, now I have this and am never looking back.

05-27-2003, 10:22 AM	#5
~~ModifiedA4~~ Banned Account #: 143 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 34,564	nice!

05-27-2003, 10:42 AM	#6
moribundman AudiWorld Super User Account #: 50038 Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 9,294	Are you gonna do the front camshaft seals on occasion? They should be similar to the ones on my 12v... By the way, there's no camshaft tensioner in my 12v. This engine hasn't been overdeveloped. ;-) __________________ Mhmm, donuts...

05-27-2003, 11:03 AM	#7
®ob AudiWorld Super User Account #: 475 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 12,626	the camshaft seals don't typically go bad...they are still good on my car __________________ I used to own a B5 A4, now I have this and am never looking back.

05-27-2003, 11:25 AM	#8
Kris Hansen Chief of Goat control Account #: 20 Join Date: Oct 2000 Posts: 66,548,190	Nice Rob.. To change the actual tensioner you'd need to remove the belt though, right? Looks easy enough.. If only I had the time. My driver's side tensioner is bad, the passenger side one leaks.

05-27-2003, 11:26 AM	#9
moribundman AudiWorld Super User Account #: 50038 Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 9,294	Cross your fingers, knock on wood, break a leg! __________________ Mhmm, donuts...

05-27-2003, 01:49 PM	#10
®ob AudiWorld Super User Account #: 475 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 12,626	To change the tensioner... you would need to remove both cams, so yes, it would be requiring you to remove the belt. How do you know your tensioner itself is bad? __________________ I used to own a B5 A4, now I have this and am never looking back.

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