gondar

I swapped out the front ones with Bosch univerals with the odd splice kit. Worked fine. Colors match. Sensors are located on the headpipes about 2" down from the manifolds and are angled in so you can hardly see them. Cannot see the wires. You can see the driver side a little better. I was unable to get a 1/2" drive sensor socket on either even with 2 U joints. Wasted half an hour trying.

Pass side, pull the wheel, go in though the steering rack port with a regular size 22mm OE wrench, by feel. You don't have to take other stuff off. It is a long reach, however. If you ever artifically inseminated a metal cow in the dark and the thing isn't stuck you will be OK. I wear a 35" shirt.

Driver side, I ended up cutting a 22mm combination wrench in half, pulled the head modesty cover, cut the wires at the sensor by feel, slipped the shortened box half over the sensor, used a 2' pipe lever on the head to break it loose, unscrewed with the OE half of the wrench. You cannot use the rack port for the driver side access because of tubing coils obstructing.

I don't think either was tighter than 20 ft pounds, cold, after 100K miles. Harness length from the top of the sensor to the open end of the OE female connector was abt 14 1/2". The large black twin lock connectors, polarized, are on the firewall behind the heads and snap out of the brackets with a forward pull. The connections looked clean and good, inside. Curious to see if there is even a slight mileage change. Car had popped the mil light and threw a sensor code, and had been missing just a beat at times.
Runs a bit better now even discounting installer bias.

Total job was 2.5 hours including wasted time and splicing. Hope this helps somebody.

mr-epic

Thanks! I'm going to have to do mine here soon... are the universals good?

gondar

Bosch universal seem to work fine 15733, see ebay (powercurve??)where I got mine or rockauto.com. I am sure the sensor proper is the same as a custom fit connector item.

Splice before installing.