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Blaupunkt ME3 DVD Player / TV Tuner installed for RNS-E last night!!! [BWW] <edited>
Blaupunkt ME3 DVD Player / TV tuner
I installed the RNS-E DVD navigation unit in January when I picked up the 4.2 in Chicago. However, it occurred to me that I needed to add the DVD player so my son can enjoy movies on the go for "special" trips in the A6.
I picked up a Blaupunkt ME3 DVD player and TV tuner (on TeddyBGame's recommendation) from eBay for about $150. Not a bad deal for a brand new unit.
Here is a picture of the various components: It includes the player, a wire harness, a remote sensor, an antenna, a remote control, brackets, and an audio/video cable. [Note: I am doing clickable thumbnails so you do not have to wait for LOTS of BIG pictures to load].
Unfortunately for me, the player would not fit in the glove box as I had hoped. I was following the pictures from TeddyBGame's install in the glove box, which required some cutting. Luckily, I did check his pictures of the space where the DVD player is supposed to fit before I did any cutting. I think NSX_JR said that this was the control unit for the power memory steering wheel, right where the space was needed for the player. Oh well.
Anyway, when I tested it out last night, I realized that I forgot to run the remote control eye to the front of the car, so I will do that and update this post later when that is done.
Special thanks go to TeddyBGame for the inspiration to do this, as well as NSX_JR for posting Teddy's PDF install instructions for his glove box ME3.
Okay, so here we go...
PART 1: Mounting the DVD player to the CD changer bracket
So, it was to the trunk for me. I figured that I could mount this right below the 6-disc CD changer. I removed the changer bracket and changer from the car. Here is a picture of the CD changer in the bracket:
Looking from the bottom, this is a test fit to see where I would end up mounting the player, so that the wire harness and the coax antenna are unobstructed from the bracket (you can see the coax threads near the top of the picture).
Lo and behold, it looked like the upright portion of the bracket (the right side when it is right-side-up) was perfect for putting two screws to secure the DVD player. Here you can see the holes to the left of the bracket (again, the bracket is upside down).
And here with the player right where I want to mount it.
So now it was just how to mark the right spot to make the hole in the bracket, since the holes are hidden from view when the unit was positioned where I wanted it. I used the vent slots as a guide. As you can see in the picture below, the center of the screw hole is 5/16" from the edge of the vent opening, and about the same height.
Using some blue painter's tape, I marked where the center of the hole would be height wise, then measured over 5/16" and made my mark. I also made a mark for drilling 1 5/8" from the other mark I just made for the other hole.
I then placed the L-bracket that came with the DVD player on the other side of the unit to see where the holes needed to be.
Then I made my marks for drilling, again using some painter's tape.
With the unit removed, here are the marks for the holes.
I then used a ??/32" tungsten coated drill bit to make the holes. These are large enough for the small screws to fit through the CD changer bracket and into the DVD unit, and small enough for the self-threaded screws for the L-bracket.
Here are the holes drilled into the CD changer bracket
Now I mounted the DVD player to the CD changer bracket
The two self threaded screws stuck out a bit into the space where the CD changer is supposed to go, so I took the extra screws I had on hand, and cut them down to the right size so they are flush with the flat surface. Then I just replaced the long screws with the cut ones (which was easy since the long screws threaded the holes already perfectly).
Now with the CD changer reinstalled
And now everything back in the car.
PART 2: Running the wires from the trunk to the dash
So here is where there is a bit of extra cost I did not factor in. Needing to get shielded audio/video cables to avoid interference in the picture and sound, I bought the longest high quality cables I could find at Best Buy, which are not cheap. I found a nice 20 foot monster cable for audio, but the longest shielded video wire I could find was 12 feet long, so I bought another 6 foot video cable and a Monster Cable connector to fasten the two cable together.
I wanted to run the cord along the door rails where most of the other electronics run. At the same time, I am running the power wires for the OEM rear sunshade that I had yet to hook up, so ignore those other wires (details of that post at a later date).
I am running the following wires to the front of the car from the rear for the DVD player:
1) Video RCA cable
2) Audio RCA cable
3) DVD power wire
4) DVD ground wire
5) DVD accessory power wire
The wires for power, ground, and accessory that came with the DVD player are way too short, so I spliced in some longer 18-gauge wire to run to the front. Not trusting myself, I got color wires from Radio Shack so I could keep track of which wire was what. I made a pseudo wire harness with the three wires and black electrical tape every 8 inches.
To run the wires to the front of the car, I had to remove:
- Lower dash panel
- Lower A-pillar trim
- Lower B-pillar trim
- Driver seatbelt bolt
- Rear side bolster
- Lower C pillar trim.
These are detailed below.
Lower dash panel removal
Remove the dash panel to expose the battery leads. There are 5 bolts that secure this panel. Two are hidden under the upside-down U-shape trim just above the steering column, one is in the fuse panel on the side, and two are located in the lower corners of the panel. To access the two upper bolts, pull the trim over the steering wheel straight back. Remember, you are removing the BOLTS, not the philips head screws (which are for the instrument cluster). Here is a pic of the panel removal (courtesy of TeddyBGame).
Lower A-pillar removal:
Remove the little plastic cap on the lower A-pillar trim to expose one of the screws that has to be removed.
Remove the two Philips-head screws.
Remove the trim by pulling out towards the rear of the car first, then remove the top part of the trim from the rubber door gasket. There are two metal clips that fasten the trim to the door gasket (sorry for the blurry pic).
Lower B-pillar trim removal
Open both doors on the driver side of the car, and just grab the inner part of the trim with your fingers and lift up. Simple metal clips are used to fasten the front portion and rear portion.
Once the flat portions are free, then pull the center portion towards the inside of the car to release the tab that is hooked under the plastic center trim.
Remove the seatbelt bolt
The lower B-pillar trim hides a 17mm bolt that secures the front seat belt. I decided to run the wires along the rail but just under the carpet which requires that this bolt be removed. There is not a lot of room to work with, and this bolt is tight, so I used my Audi-brand 17MM lug bolt wrench to free the bolt, then a regular socket wrench to do the rest.
Rear bolster removal
Using a 17mm deep socket, remove the pin pictured below
Then gently pry back the side bolster to release the lower retainer clip
Removing the lower C-pillar trim
Similar to the other trim, this is held in with a few clips and tabs. Just pull the trim toward the front of the car. Once the upper part is free, lift up on the front corner of the rear seat bottom to release a tab that is hidden under the seat. Remove the trim.
Running the wires
Now that the path is clear, time to run the wires! Here is the opening that I found to run the wires to the side compartment where the DVD player is located.
Run the wires to the front of the car through the cubby. Pictured below is a view looking from the opening in the trunk. I ran the wires through the wire guides already in the cubby (Note: the CD changer cable is in view here wrapped in the foam).
Then run the wires along the side rail, tucked under the carpet.
I ran the wires and A/V cables to the front near the deal pedal, and coiled up the extra length and ticked everything under my floor mat until I was ready to finish the wiring.
I also ran along the side the wire for the remote eye. The wire was barely long enough for me to reach the front edge of the dash along the windshield. I wish it could have reached dead center of the dash, but there was not enough wire, so I am settling for now...maybe I can get an extension cable and place it exactly where I want, but this will do for now.
Note: I have not used the adhesive tape just yet since I am thinking of relocating this if I can get and extension wire. In testing the unit and the remote control, the remote needs line-of-sight to work, so I have to raise the remote control dash height for it to work (not the best setup IMHO). I am thinking of hiding it along the top of the windshield now, so I would not have to raise the remote for it to work.
PART 3: Install the Dietz 1417 and GALA switch
I decided to mount the Dietz 1417 and the GALA switch (which enables video in motion because the RNS-E thinks the car is not moving) on the glove box itself, as there is some room and the passenger side dash is closer to the connection on the back of the RNS-E for the Dietz adaptor.
Mounting the Dietz 1417 and the GALA switch in glove box
First, I removed the glove box from the car so I could work inside the house (it was getting cold outside). There are five bolts and one piece of tape that need to be removed. The first three are located at the top, accessed by opening the door to the glove box compartment. The other two are in the lower corners (picture courtesy of TeddyBGame)
I decided on a small round rocker switch I grabbed at Radio Shack for the GALA switch. For clarification, this switch is needed to trick the RNS-E that the car is not moving so it will not kill the video feed to the screen. On other platform cars, another module is needed (Dietz 1280 Video in Motion adaptor), but luckily for us C5 folks, no problem!
Using a 3/4" drill bit, I opened a hole into the top of the glove box.
Then I installed the switch.
I might change the GALA switch if I can get my hands on the "FUNK" button (posted by NSX_JR) since it is a simple on/off switch, and that button position is currently unused.
I then mounted the Dietz adaptor to the back of the glove box using the same Velcro-style stuff used for those highway toll transponders since it is very strong stuff, also found at Radio Shack.
Preparing the Dietz wiring harness
The Dietz adaptor comes with a wiring harness as shown here.
Note the four loose wires (red, white, black, green). They need to be connected to the RNS-E as follows:
Red to Power
Black to Ground
Green to CAN-low/high
White to CAN-low/high
I decided to tap into the Kufatec adaptor, so if I screwed up, all I need to do is buy another adaptor. I removed the radio to get the adaptor out.
Now the connections are made from the Dietz adaptor to the Kufatec RNS-E adaptor.
Connect adaptor to RNS-E and tap for GALA switch
I hooked up the various connectors again, but I also cut the GALA wire that I ran from the instrument cluster when I originally installed the RNS-E so I could run wires to the switch in the glove box (the orange wire).
Here are the connectors I used for the GALA switch
Here are the various cables and wires waiting to be plugged into something I also ran the A/V cables under the dash, behind the radio to this are in the passenger foot well...sorry for the dirty floor mat).
And everything except the Dietz adaptor plugged in (the wire was short, so I could not plug it in and take the picture). Note: Ignore the red audio connector in the position on the Dietz adaptor pictured here. That is supposed to the yellow video connector. I checked before I fastened everything, but I forgot to take another picture.
Then I reinstalled the glove box panel and pushed the head unit back into place.
PART 4: Make final connections
Back at the trunk compartment, I connected the RCA jacks to the ME-3 adaptor, and tapped the wires that I ran to the front of the car earlier into their respective wires in the harness.
Red = Switched Power
Black = Ground
Yellow = Battery
I then disconnected the battery, and made the connections under the dash.
Red = Switched power to 75X
Black = Ground to main ground on left sidewall
Yellow = Battery to 30
I plugged in the connector to the ME3
I reconnected the battery, and when I hit the CD/TV button on the RNS-E and look at available sources...HELLO THERE...
No TV reception for now...I've got to get my hands on an amplified patch antenna for TV reception. I am thinking about one that will hide in the lining of the trunk, easy to install, and I will NOT have to deal with the trim pieces again.
2002 A6 4.2 Sport...with a few things added