Yikes... I have an oil leak on my 2.7T upper sump seal and the repair procedure is ugly!
02-26-2001, 10:59 PM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yikes... I have an oil leak on my 2.7T upper sump seal and the repair procedure is ugly!
My A6 2.7T (@4800 miles) was diagnosed today with a leaky upper sump seal during its 5K service visit. Since I still have the Bentley CD from my 2000 S4 days I decided to lookup the appropriate repair procedure to apply a new seal.
For those that have the manual, look here for the entire nasty procedure:
http://127.0.0.1:8080/ESIS?action=Previous&manual=B5ge05ge05.xml&page=17-33&type=repair
Timmmmmay... do not try this at home!
This is the section (part #3 down) that needs removal to replace the (silicone) seal between part #3 (lower sump) and the block.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/sumpdetails.jpg">
Remove noise insulation cover.
Remove bumper.
Move lock carrier to service position.
Remove coolant.
Remove engine oil.
Attach support bracket to front and rear lifting eyes on engine.
Raise engine as far as possible with spindles of support bracket.
Cut open cable ties -arrows-, open retainer for starter cable and take out cable.
Unbolt torque reaction support at front of sump.
Unbolt coolant pipe from sump.
Unplug connector from oil pressure switch on left of sump.
Remove lots of hoses and pipes (coolant and oil)!
First remove front subframe bolts (left and right). Then unscrew bolts.
Move anti-roll bar downwards.
Remove charge air cooler on right side (release hose connection at top, and 3 rubber mountings).
Remove alternator.
Remove right side charge air tubing to turbo.
Remove A/C and oil pipe mountings from block on right side.
Remove right wheel.
Remove starter.
Notes: To avoid having to check and adjust wheel alignment, only loosen the front subframe mountings and lower the subframe at the front.
Remove lower section of sump.
Remove turbo oil return lines from sump.
Unbolt the two oil supply pipes, and pull the longer of the two pipes downwards to detach from upper section of sump.
Unbolt oil pump from engine so that the shorter oil supply pipe can be detached (do not remove oil pump).
Unscrew bolts securing upper section of sump to gearbox.
Unbolt upper section of sump from engine.
After all this, the procedure goes on to tell the technician how to clean off all the old silicone.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/cleanitup.jpg">
And then but a fresh bead of silicone on the sump casing surface.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/cutthetube.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/siliconebead.jpg">
Yikes. I had my 6-speed transmission replaced at 1600 miles in my S4 and I thought that was a nasty repair for a young car. This procedure takes the cake for a simple non-block oil leak...
The best part was the following warning:
<b>The bead of sealant must not be thicker than 3 mm, as otherwise excess sealant may enter the sump and block the strainer in the oil intake pipe. Be particularly careful when applying the sealant around the rear sealing flange.</b>
/dan
For those that have the manual, look here for the entire nasty procedure:
http://127.0.0.1:8080/ESIS?action=Previous&manual=B5ge05ge05.xml&page=17-33&type=repair
Timmmmmay... do not try this at home!
This is the section (part #3 down) that needs removal to replace the (silicone) seal between part #3 (lower sump) and the block.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/sumpdetails.jpg">
Remove noise insulation cover.
Remove bumper.
Move lock carrier to service position.
Remove coolant.
Remove engine oil.
Attach support bracket to front and rear lifting eyes on engine.
Raise engine as far as possible with spindles of support bracket.
Cut open cable ties -arrows-, open retainer for starter cable and take out cable.
Unbolt torque reaction support at front of sump.
Unbolt coolant pipe from sump.
Unplug connector from oil pressure switch on left of sump.
Remove lots of hoses and pipes (coolant and oil)!
First remove front subframe bolts (left and right). Then unscrew bolts.
Move anti-roll bar downwards.
Remove charge air cooler on right side (release hose connection at top, and 3 rubber mountings).
Remove alternator.
Remove right side charge air tubing to turbo.
Remove A/C and oil pipe mountings from block on right side.
Remove right wheel.
Remove starter.
Notes: To avoid having to check and adjust wheel alignment, only loosen the front subframe mountings and lower the subframe at the front.
Remove lower section of sump.
Remove turbo oil return lines from sump.
Unbolt the two oil supply pipes, and pull the longer of the two pipes downwards to detach from upper section of sump.
Unbolt oil pump from engine so that the shorter oil supply pipe can be detached (do not remove oil pump).
Unscrew bolts securing upper section of sump to gearbox.
Unbolt upper section of sump from engine.
After all this, the procedure goes on to tell the technician how to clean off all the old silicone.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/cleanitup.jpg">
And then but a fresh bead of silicone on the sump casing surface.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/cutthetube.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/137/siliconebead.jpg">
Yikes. I had my 6-speed transmission replaced at 1600 miles in my S4 and I thought that was a nasty repair for a young car. This procedure takes the cake for a simple non-block oil leak...
The best part was the following warning:
<b>The bead of sealant must not be thicker than 3 mm, as otherwise excess sealant may enter the sump and block the strainer in the oil intake pipe. Be particularly careful when applying the sealant around the rear sealing flange.</b>
/dan
02-27-2001, 04:41 AM
#2
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ditto (S4)...
My S4 developed a small oil leak coincidentally at the 5K service. The shop couldn't find the leak, they added dye to my oil to make sure it wasn't spilled oil that was dripping off the engine. It would produce two half-dollar size drips overnight. After the second visit they determined it was the rear main seal. Luckily their service tech was going to an Audi seminar prior to the rear main seal replacement and found out from another tech to check the upper sump seal. Three days in the shop (and three days in a Dodge Neon) and viola, no more leak.
02-27-2001, 05:29 AM
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Stock oils or synthetics??
Were you guys running the stock "break-in" oil, or had you gone to synthetic already? My dealer said to run dino oils until 10k to allow seals to seat properly...
Mike
Toast
Butter
Jam
Crust off
Mike
Toast
Butter
Jam
Crust off
02-27-2001, 04:52 PM
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Problem was not an upper sump seal leak!
Radical surgery has been avoided!
After cleaning up the oil on the engine and running dye they isolated the problem to the lower pan gasket and an o-ring on a turbo oil return line. Both simple fixes.
They were "setting me up" for a worst case finding yesterday... I just did not know it at the time. It was not until looking at the Bentley last night that I got worried. The service advisor just told me about the leak in a matter of fact tone yesterday that it was "just a leak that they thought was in the upper sump seal".
Car was returned today with my Mobil 1 0w30 installed.
Hope none of you out there ever have an upper sump seal leak.
/dan
After cleaning up the oil on the engine and running dye they isolated the problem to the lower pan gasket and an o-ring on a turbo oil return line. Both simple fixes.
They were "setting me up" for a worst case finding yesterday... I just did not know it at the time. It was not until looking at the Bentley last night that I got worried. The service advisor just told me about the leak in a matter of fact tone yesterday that it was "just a leak that they thought was in the upper sump seal".
Car was returned today with my Mobil 1 0w30 installed.
Hope none of you out there ever have an upper sump seal leak.
/dan
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