For the archives...Front crank seal replacement...

[turbosquatt]

About three weeks ago, I had an oil leak start in the front of my engine when I was warming it up before work. I saw three quarts of oil on the ground after ten minutes of idling. So, I shut it down and pulled it in the garage. Upon inspection, I could only see oil all over the front quarter of my engine. It covered both belts and sprayed everywhere.

Only after tearing everything down to the block, could I see where it was coming from. The front crankshaft seal didn't hold oil anymore. It pooled behind the lower timing belt cover and crank pulley and once it reached the level of the timing belt, started slinging all over everything. So, in case anyone runs into this problem, this may help your diagnosis instead of spending 30 hours just replacing every seal on the front of the engine.

First, if you can change the timing belt, you can change this. Audi quoted me almost $1000 to replace it, so I figured it out myself. Sorry no pics. But you can find plenty in the timing belt tech article.

Once you have the timing belt taken off, you will need the crank lock pin and a 15/16 (better fitment) or 24mm (audi standard) socket with a breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe. The seal itself is P/N 038 103 085 E. It is upgraded from the old style seal, and definitely looks like a better design.

Inserting the crank lock pin was more difficult than the rest of the job. I had to disconnect and lower the driver side of the sway bar, and disconnect the lower turbo outlet from the mounting bracket. Then, you have just enough room with a 10mm socket and 2 feet of extensions to loosen the plug and remove it, where the pin needs to go in. Then if you don't have caveman hands, you can barely reach in an thread the pin in by hand. Make sure the crank is locked in position!

Then off with the crank bolt (15/16 12 pt. bolt). Once you get it out, the timing pulley comes with it, and the seal just falls out of its seat. You may have to get a screwdriver in there to get it, but if its leaking its definitely loose. After that, tap the new one in and assemble everything in reverse. Pay special attention to the torque of the crank bolt. It goes on at 200 Nm (~150 ft. lbs.) plus a half turn to stretch it.

Hope this helps somebody in the future...

[SIMPPLY @ WMS]

if DIY at home, It can take time.

[jakecro [ww]]

• http://www.audidatabase.com/diy

[Bimmer Needs Reverse]

[turbosquatt]

I didn't want to spend extra time removing the lock carrier completely, so I spent the time installing the crank lock pin instead...

[PKmode]

done now and all the seals are fresh so you shouldn't have to do them again if you did a good job.

I look forward to seeing you around this year.

[turbosquatt]

[turbosquatt]

[SForked]