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Old 10-10-2006, 09:54 PM   #1
EdyJun
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Account #: 48484
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,849
Default Has anyone used Devilsown Alcohol/Water injection?





I have been talking with Kelly over AIM (Wideopentuning) and from what I can tell this is great and it's cheap water injector.

If you like to get more info or want one AIM Kelly or call @ 425-445-1068.

Tell him you got the info from EdyJun and he will give you a better discount.


(Progressive setup -you want the 2bar controller for the S4- and for the dual nozzle setup for the S4. Progressive kit with dual nozzles is - dual 5 GPH nozzles)

I am planning on getting one from him by the end of the month.

What do you all think?

Edy


Universal Progressive Instructions

Alcohol Injection Kits

Progressive Kit includeds:

Progressive Controller
Shurflow Pump
Straight 1/8" Male Npt Fitting
90 Deg 1/8" Male Npt Fitting
Straight 3/8" Male Npt Fitting
90 Deg 3/8" Male Npt Fitting
Polyethylene Hose
Check Valve
90 Deg Nozzle Holder
1/8" Metal bonded washer
Nozzle
Wire Loom
#10 Blue Ring
Black Bullet T-Tap
Blue Bullet Connector
Blue Butt Connector
10 Amp Fuse
Red 16 GA. Fuse Holder
Red 16 GA. Wire
Black 16 GA. Wire
#9 x 1-1/2", Silver Screw
6" Long Zip Tie


Progressive Alcohol Controller General Operation:



On power up the unit will blink the yellow led indicating what BAR setting the unit is setup for.
2 blinks is 2 BAR
3 blinks is 3 BAR

Then the unit will read the dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control.

Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
Pump duty cycle is calculated based on dial settings and slope

When boost PSI reaches the START setting the pump will come on with a 15% duty cycle
It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost.
This means the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve

For ease of adjustment, each dial has 21 settings that are incremental
There is a setting for every hash mark and another setting in-between each
Having the arrow close to a setting will provide the exact setting.

For example the 12 o'clock position on the START dial of a 2 BAR unit is a PSI setting of 7
It will also be a 7 if the arrow is 6 degrees to right (or left) of 12 o'clock
once it is beyond half way to the middle the setting will be 7.5PSI
This allows the user to easily set the unit to exact values without having to be fussy with the dial

For reference the Dial settings for each version are as follows:
If the FULL setting is set to a lower PSI than the START setting, the start setting will be ignored and the pump will switch on to 100% when PSI is above FULL setting and will switch off when it is below the FULL setting.


In order to prevent loading down the MAP sensor signal, the voltage input to the controller is left floating. This means that tapping into the stock MAP sensor that is connected to your cars computer will not effect the MAP voltage.

However, if the MAP input wire (green) is left disconnected, sampled voltage will be erratic and therefore pump output voltage will be erratic.

LEDs:

RED - power led - It will be illuminated anytime there is power applied to the pink wire and the black wire is grounded.

GREEN - This led will light up proportional to pump output voltage, it will turn on dim and brighten as the pump reaches 100%

YELLOW - This is the FULL/Diagnostic led
It will blink the BAR value that the unit is set for on startup. 2 for 2 BAR and 3 for 3 BAR.

It will come on solid in normal operation when the output voltage to pump is at 100%.
It will stay on until output drops below 95%
This prevents the light from fluttering if the boost is hovering around FULL.

It will blink a steady rate when the unit is faulted.

Fault:
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw
- fault in the pump circuit
- controller overheat
- pump wired incorrectly

In fault mode, the controller will shut off the output to the pump and will flash the yellow (FULL/Diagnostic) led.

The controller must be powered down and the fault condition must no longer exist before the controller will resume normal operation.

Open circuit conditions are not monitored by this controller
This is because many alcohol/water injection pumps have a pressure switch to modulate max pressure. During normal operation the switch will open and close. When the switch is open, no current will flow to the pump. Therefore, it can be normal for a zero current condition when the controller is telling the pump to run.
__________________

2000 Audi S4 STG 3
FATS = 3.66 w/ 91 oct

AIM: EdyJun



11 September 2001
In their honor. In their memory.

<font color="red">----------------------------------------------------------
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<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm">EdyJun's S4 Directory (FAQ, DIY, Info, Tips and Help)
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:07 PM   #2
Pop3
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Posts: 1,378
Default I ordered two kits on monday. Seems like a good kit, but they dont carry any accumulators.

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Next mods: chipset with overboost option
and stg3 rims (folk+nittos) and interior ledlights
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:33 PM   #3
Snow Trooper *Swiss*
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Default i am getting excited for it, this horrible timming on 91 is pissing me off

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Old 10-11-2006, 01:08 AM   #4
rojodosformula::red
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Posts: 5,879
Default If you mean a snow performance kit then yes...........

Looks very much like a snow performance kit minus a little bit of a downgrade with the controller using an external map sensor. It is about $140 cheaper though. Should be interesting but I predict it will require some wiring as opposed to just tapping into a line that sees boost. I do like the idea of the status led being based on actual pump voltage rather than the snow performance kits solid green status led on solid when the controller is activated.
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Viva la please use the classifieds!






Riebes Auto Parts in Loomis, CA can suck it. Thanks for the help bitches.
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Old 10-11-2006, 05:04 AM   #5
TwinPSI::HB wanabe
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Default Edy, if you look a few days back, I posted this already. :-)

Mine is already ordered and on its way. If you go to my post, it has a link to where he is running the group buy for those. I was the 1st to get ahold of him and he is very, very helpful. He was suprised that more of the Audi/VW world hasn't looked into these yet. I can't wait to see how much heat it will take out of the system for such a low price.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:33 AM   #6
EdyJun
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Default Yes, I know you did. You and Snow Trooper are the ones that got into this.

BTW, I think he told me about ur setup and that your getting it to lower IAT. In your 1/4 mile ur IAT hit 155F or something.

I didn't want to put the price and the direct link to other GB because I was afraid it would get deleted.

Edy
__________________

2000 Audi S4 STG 3
FATS = 3.66 w/ 91 oct

AIM: EdyJun



11 September 2001
In their honor. In their memory.

<font color="red">----------------------------------------------------------
<u><big>
<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm">EdyJun's S4 Directory (FAQ, DIY, Info, Tips and Help)
</a>
</big> </u>----------------------------------------------------------
</font>
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:34 AM   #7
EdyJun
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Default Why do u need the "accumulators"?

__________________

2000 Audi S4 STG 3
FATS = 3.66 w/ 91 oct

AIM: EdyJun



11 September 2001
In their honor. In their memory.

<font color="red">----------------------------------------------------------
<u><big>
<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm">EdyJun's S4 Directory (FAQ, DIY, Info, Tips and Help)
</a>
</big> </u>----------------------------------------------------------
</font>
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:41 AM   #8
Pop3
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Default generally to help the pump and for faster response. just something current users pointed out

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and stg3 rims (folk+nittos) and interior ledlights
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:37 PM   #9
EdyJun
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Default I was told that there is chek valve system with this kit that should do the same job, take a look.



I know it's not the exact same thing.

Check Valve (Acetal Polyoxymethylene Copolymer)

Description
About our check valve, some companies claim that because they use a brass valve it is far superior for this application but what they don't tell is what's inside. Our valve is as durable and will last as long as any other kit vendors valve on the market. We challenge them to any side by side test anytime to back up any claims of better performance with a water injection system.

About our check valve.

Our check valve is composed of Acetal Polyoxymethylene Copolymer not cheap plastic.
High tensile strength and stiffness
Exceptional dynamic fatigue strength and dimensional stability
Practical toughness and resilience
Minimal moisture absorption
Low friction and wear properties
Hard, high gloss surface
Superior property retention

Some of the unique features are:
* Positive sealing
* Low inertia (fast acting)
* 36 psi Cracking pressures
* Titanium spring
* Temperature use range from sub zero to 250?,

Our check valves innovative designs use a minimum number of parts to assure reliability through simplicity. The check valve incorporates an innovative check valve module with ultrasonically welded end pieces. The main sealing element is an injection molded elastomer poppet that is held against a molded seat by a spring. The seat and poppet are washed by the contact fluid each time the valve opens. This makes the valve tolerant to contaminated media.
__________________

2000 Audi S4 STG 3
FATS = 3.66 w/ 91 oct

AIM: EdyJun



11 September 2001
In their honor. In their memory.

<font color="red">----------------------------------------------------------
<u><big>
<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm">EdyJun's S4 Directory (FAQ, DIY, Info, Tips and Help)
</a>
</big> </u>----------------------------------------------------------
</font>
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