Sheered bolt, dts to transmission, what to do?

wagongotya · 11-21-2005, 08:58 AM

When tighting down one of the 8mm bolts that directly mounts the DTS to the transmission, i went a too tight and sheered the bolt. This is why it happened to warn others...

The threading on the transmission was a little bit rusty but not terribly bad so I decided to blast it with some JB-80(strong liquid wrench type stuff) and just go for it. The bolts took some effort to tighten, but nothing too out of the ordinary...so i continued tightening. I got them both threaded about half way when i felt confident that they could be fully torqued down (big mistake). I was able to get the first one with no problem, the second one was the killer. I had it just about torqued when i heard the snap (!@#$).

It was starting to get dark and cold (i live in the mtns) and i was almost done so i tightened the rest of the bar down and let it be for the time being. My question is if it is safe to leave the the DTS as is with only one of two bolts connecting it to the transmssion, or should i take it somewhere to have the bold tapped out and replaced?

FWIW, I drove the car gently this morning and the shifting felt great.

Pic to illustrate: (stolen from davenew's PP)

s00perAWEsomeS4guy · 11-21-2005, 09:03 AM

the threads. they put that in there for a reason you know

DAP@EPL · 11-21-2005, 09:04 AM

wagongotya · 11-21-2005, 09:07 AM

even if the threads "look" clean enough. Thanks for the recommendation

b-thumper · 11-21-2005, 09:18 AM

someone to professionally remove the bolt. Seriously though, it's not a big deal to have the DTS in that condition because the car doesn't have one stock. Just don't do any crazy launching and hard shifting 'til you get it fixed

s00perAWEsomeS4guy · 11-21-2005, 09:26 AM

half way without any issue, then when it came time for final torgue down i twisted both. so i went to bigger stronger bolts. flywheel bolts to be exact. the bolts that come with the asp bar are a bit soft anyway.

wagongotya · 11-21-2005, 09:28 AM

~~ModifiedA4~~ · 11-21-2005, 09:59 AM

Nick Gustas · 11-21-2005, 10:03 AM

The remaining hole/boss on the transmission isn't really designed for the wrenching/twisting force that it may recieve depending on the flex in the DTS mount. Wouldn't want to snap off the mounting point on the case from the strain.

I've seen a mounting ear on a aluminum VW trans snap from a similar type of misloading when a weld broke on the other side of the mount. The loads here are much smaller, and our trans case is tough, but it's not worth the risk of a very expensive repair to save a few minutes of work. Pull the rubber part out now, fix the snapped off bolt when you get a chance.

11-21-2005, 08:58 AM	#1
wagongotya AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 11,168	Sheered bolt, dts to transmission, what to do? When tighting down one of the 8mm bolts that directly mounts the DTS to the transmission, i went a too tight and sheered the bolt. This is why it happened to warn others... The threading on the transmission was a little bit rusty but not terribly bad so I decided to blast it with some JB-80(strong liquid wrench type stuff) and just go for it. The bolts took some effort to tighten, but nothing too out of the ordinary...so i continued tightening. I got them both threaded about half way when i felt confident that they could be fully torqued down (big mistake). I was able to get the first one with no problem, the second one was the killer. I had it just about torqued when i heard the snap (!@#$). It was starting to get dark and cold (i live in the mtns) and i was almost done so i tightened the rest of the bar down and let it be for the time being. My question is if it is safe to leave the the DTS as is with only one of two bolts connecting it to the transmssion, or should i take it somewhere to have the bold tapped out and replaced? FWIW, I drove the car gently this morning and the shifting felt great. Pic to illustrate: (stolen from davenew's PP) __________________ \|sig\| EPL Custom Tune w/ OEM RS6 Turbos. "I wish I could have a stage 3 car to be disapointed in. :-)" - IBG 2007-01-16 16:15:26 RIP O.W. Kenobi \|/sig\|

11-21-2005, 09:03 AM	#2
s00perAWEsomeS4guy New Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 136	drill it out, re-tap it and put in a new bolt, next time read the directions that say to chase...... the threads. they put that in there for a reason you know

11-21-2005, 09:04 AM	#3
DAP@EPL Audiworld Sponsor Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Jun 2000 Posts: 19,700	Probably fine to drive, but I'd get it tapped out and replaced at some point. __________________

11-21-2005, 09:07 AM	#4
wagongotya AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 11,168	yeah, that's why I wanted to post and let people know that chasing is necessary... even if the threads "look" clean enough. Thanks for the recommendation __________________ \|sig\| EPL Custom Tune w/ OEM RS6 Turbos. "I wish I could have a stage 3 car to be disapointed in. :-)" - IBG 2007-01-16 16:15:26 RIP O.W. Kenobi \|/sig\|

11-21-2005, 09:18 AM	#5
b-thumper AudiWorld Super User 2002 Audi S4 Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 5,216	I did the same thing! I then tried to drill it out and broke that in the broken bolt. Then paid someone to professionally remove the bolt. Seriously though, it's not a big deal to have the DTS in that condition because the car doesn't have one stock. Just don't do any crazy launching and hard shifting 'til you get it fixed __________________ Click Picture For More Pics and Mod List "Any car that merely takes you from A to B does not go far enough." - August Horch '02 S4 - Nogaro '05 M3 - Interlagos Gone: '01 S4 - Silver '02 S2000 - Silver

11-21-2005, 09:26 AM	#6
s00perAWEsomeS4guy New Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 136	i did the same thing you did :) mine looked really clean, i ran it in finger tight about half way without any issue, then when it came time for final torgue down i twisted both. so i went to bigger stronger bolts. flywheel bolts to be exact. the bolts that come with the asp bar are a bit soft anyway.

11-21-2005, 09:28 AM	#7
wagongotya AudiWorld Super User Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 11,168	thank you for some piece of mind, i'll get it drilled next time the cars in the shop __________________ \|sig\| EPL Custom Tune w/ OEM RS6 Turbos. "I wish I could have a stage 3 car to be disapointed in. :-)" - IBG 2007-01-16 16:15:26 RIP O.W. Kenobi \|/sig\|

11-21-2005, 09:59 AM	#8
~~ModifiedA4~~ Banned Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 34,550	if the threads were wet when you torqued the bolt...you over torqued it.

11-21-2005, 10:03 AM	#9
Nick Gustas Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 7,469	I'd take out the mount until you get it fixed, IMO. The remaining hole/boss on the transmission isn't really designed for the wrenching/twisting force that it may recieve depending on the flex in the DTS mount. Wouldn't want to snap off the mounting point on the case from the strain. I've seen a mounting ear on a aluminum VW trans snap from a similar type of misloading when a weld broke on the other side of the mount. The loads here are much smaller, and our trans case is tough, but it's not worth the risk of a very expensive repair to save a few minutes of work. Pull the rubber part out now, fix the snapped off bolt when you get a chance.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode


Discussion Forums: