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Old 11-02-2005, 10:07 AM   #21
S4toG4
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Default more....


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Old 11-02-2005, 10:09 AM   #22
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Default Thanks. i'm going to try again(3rd). Need some one in the Bay Area..anyone??

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Old 11-02-2005, 10:12 AM   #23
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Default posted above.....do you see anything that should be checked again?

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Old 11-02-2005, 10:18 AM   #24
RKA
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Default Streetwerke

Jason posts here pretty frequently, always adding good info. I'd take it there in a heartbeat...if I lived out west.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:37 AM   #25
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Default I had the same problem for a long time...in the end I struck a deal with the dealer

so they would do it right (and minimize my cost). They ended up adjusting it not just to "within" spec, but to the extreme end of the spec so that the car wouldn't pull. So yes, the alignment was still "within spec", but adjusted very carefully to one end of it.

I don't have printouts, but the car no longer pulls. BTW, the dealer kept the car for 2 days to do this: they would adjust then take it for a drive, then adjust again, etc.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:37 AM   #26
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Default ok, i'm using this one since it's newer...

...your front subframe (assuming you have stock upper control arms) needs to be adjusted. That is why your left camber and right camber suck. The dealer can and should have done this.

Also, you had a smidge of Toe Out in the front, that would have made the car a pain to drive (good in the corners), but now you have more then a smidge of Toe In, so your car is now "safer", but your tire wear is going to suck more and it won't turn as well.

The telling tale there was your Right Rear Toe'd Out and Left rear Toe'd In (in the before), this would make the car want to go right as your rear tires were essentially point to the right (both).

But again, they put in more then a smidge of Toe In, so your tire wear is gonna suck. Rear camber is fine, leave it.

here is what I'd do, armed with that sheet, go back and ask for this alignment:

Front Left Camber = -1.0
Front Right Camber = -1.0
(this will require them to shift the subframe for a NET change of 0.3 degrees in camber).

Front Left Toe = 0.0 to 0.10
Front Right Toe = 0.0 to 0.10
Left to Right Front Toe within 0.02

Right Left Toe = 0.0 to 0.05
Right Rear Toe = 0.0 to 0.05
Left to Right Rear Toe within 0.02

Rear Camber is fine, just make sure it comes out at -0.8 on both sides afterwards. And don't leave without a new copy of the alignment sheet.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:38 AM   #27
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Default problem is the alignment.....more

you have too much cross camber. Camber is a "pull" angle and will cause a pull to the side that has the most positive camber. Ie: you have -.7 on the right and -1.3 on the left, a difference of .6 with the right side more positive. The only way to adjust this is to shift the subframe which can be a pain. Obviously having them equal would be ideal, but usually you want a little more negative on the right versus the left to help compensate for road crown. You are opposite this. Additionally if your dealer has a hunter balancer with road force there is a program in there which will show "pull" from the road force and runout readings of the wheels/tires, and can give a reccomendation of where to mount them for minimum pull. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:40 AM   #28
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Default i can't believe a shop let your car leave with 0.24 Toe out on one side and 0.06 In on the other...

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Old 11-02-2005, 10:46 AM   #29
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Default yeah, lots, read above...

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Old 11-02-2005, 10:47 AM   #30
RKA
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Default What ryan said...

The imbalance between the left and right camber is a problem. And while you're there, I would chew them out for telling you everything has been checked...it's right there in print, and it's NOT okay, and they KNOW that (well, they should...that's what you're paying them for).
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2005.5 A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro 6MT
APR 91/93/100 | APR Exhaust | 19" BBS RS-GT's | Carbonio | Hotchkis | Partridge-in-a-pear-tree
Others:
2006 TL on the block
2001 S4 sold
2000 A4 sold

*** September 11th, 2001 - Never Forget ***
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