Rear Sway links (removing sway bar vs. replacing entire link assembly)...

[NoFHoes]

Been under the car a few times to undo the 17mm nut - thing does not budge. Instead of kicking or hammering it off at the risk of ripping that rubber boot, would it make sense to disassemble the plastic sway link and replace it with the metal version?

Should make it easier no? Anyone go this route instead of bitching that they broke the plastic version?

Thanks.

[MikekiM@PureMS]

We've sold dozens of these metal links for precisely that reason.

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[zhenya]

with vice grips, without damaging the boot if you're careful. I'd try to get it apart without damaging them first, and if you have to replace them, do the metal ones as Mike recommended. But if you can save the stock ones, save the money, as there is no real performance advantage to the metal links.

[Uber Wagon 2.0]

I ended up unbolting the upper bolts, and talking the bar with links still connected to the Dremel.

I had to cut the nuts off, then dremel in a screw driver notch in the end to put them back on.

Once I had them off,I used a vice grips to hold the end of the joint and used a wire wheel and new nut to clean up the threads before re-installing.

It worked good enough to get the new sway bar connected.

Then I went out and bought metal end links..... I still need to put them on though. See sig for pic of them.

[zhenya]

those metal links you have in your sig are a PITA. I would recommend returning them or selling them and getting the metal stock ones from Mike or ECS.

[crew219]

http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/item...05465CMY%2Ejpg

http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/item...05466CMY%2Ejpg

Yea yea . . . . <insert ECS is overpriced statement here>

Dave

[Uber Wagon 2.0]

[zhenya]

don't know how they'll work with the h-sport bars, but with the neuspeed bar, you can only run the bar on stiff with non-curved links. They also cost more, and don't provide any performance benefit.

[Bahn S4]

[OCA::DIY Motorsports]