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#1 |
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Member
Account #: 56784
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 510
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Have searched the post and I am still confused as to the best way to pull engine. I have been slowly collecting stuff (Miltek DP, RS4 clutch)just waiting for ATP's K04 eliminators (said be due in 3 to 4 months). I would like to pull engine put in clutch, DP's, turbo's and then reinstall. Have pulled many engines but this is the first Audi (HAve redone suspension, cam seals, cam adjuster gasket, TB etc on this car) Have 34" jack stands, engine crane,air tools, 3 car garage but no lift.
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2001 A6 2.7T 6-spd MTM stage IV |
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#2 |
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AudiWorld Super User
Account #: 52597
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,924
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radiator, condenser, its quite a job
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Stage III Tip : ??? FATS (Race Gas) 3.43 Average Pump gas --------------- Fastest Tiptronic! ET: 12.259@118.25mph :) "Turbos are usually the cheapest/easiest way to add power - Posted by: Corrado79 on 2008-05-21 13:22:49 "Amazing that he could maintain a wedgie and talk out of his ass at the same time. That's one skill he CAN lay claim to. - Skydive@W?? 2007-12-18" --- "good I just added you to my " bitch " VIP list ." -Professional customer service - SIMPPLY@WMS 2007-12-17 --- "i tried the propane file on butane and it blew my ****ing grill up." - mjtaylor::pipedream 2007-08-23 14:21:46 --- "It takes a problem which we don't have and doesn't even solve it" - Mirror|rorriM on 2006-09-26 --- "but yeah you want open loop when you go wot ;-)" - PiggieSmalls on 2006-11-10 --- ![]() ![]() $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ = !@$#!#!!@&%! ---- ![]()
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#3 |
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Member
Account #: 56784
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 510
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I know that but was wondering about sub frame, front drive shaft removal, front suspension removal etc?
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2001 A6 2.7T 6-spd MTM stage IV |
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#4 |
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AudiWorld Super User
Account #: 52597
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,924
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I left the lower control arm attached since its part of the subframe. You HAVE to remove the front shafts the drive shaft.
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Stage III Tip : ??? FATS (Race Gas) 3.43 Average Pump gas --------------- Fastest Tiptronic! ET: 12.259@118.25mph :) "Turbos are usually the cheapest/easiest way to add power - Posted by: Corrado79 on 2008-05-21 13:22:49 "Amazing that he could maintain a wedgie and talk out of his ass at the same time. That's one skill he CAN lay claim to. - Skydive@W?? 2007-12-18" --- "good I just added you to my " bitch " VIP list ." -Professional customer service - SIMPPLY@WMS 2007-12-17 --- "i tried the propane file on butane and it blew my ****ing grill up." - mjtaylor::pipedream 2007-08-23 14:21:46 --- "It takes a problem which we don't have and doesn't even solve it" - Mirror|rorriM on 2006-09-26 --- "but yeah you want open loop when you go wot ;-)" - PiggieSmalls on 2006-11-10 --- ![]() ![]() $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ = !@$#!#!!@&%! ---- ![]()
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#5 |
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New Member
Account #: 96560
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 117
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Hey there,
I just recently removed my engine with trans. I think this the best way. what i did was remove subframe with out suspenson parts, i left the suspension on car. I used about 2 to 3" block between the frame and the strut to give me space to drop engine. i would highly recommend that you ceramic coat your exh. manifolds. i got mine done at EXTREMEPERFORMANCEHEATCOATINGS.COM for about $145.00 shipped to me. i brought my header temp down to 300 deg. |
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#6 |
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AudiWorld Senior Member
Account #: 40679
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,947
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I removed the engine and transmission together, with front driveshafts and lower control arms attached. You can also leave the shifter linkage connected. Here is a quick rundown of what I did:
-Lift car onto jackstands. Place the front jackstands just inside where the front jacking points are. There is a small section about 1.5" wide that works great to support the weight of the car. I used a small 1.5" square, by .5" thick wood blocks to protect the finish under the car. Ensure that the front wheels are at least 16" off the ground. This will be required in order to get the subframe out with the steering knuckles attached. -Remove plastic battery cover and disconnect/remove battery. On the sides: -Remove front wheels -Remove front brake calipers, leave lines connected, and hang the calipers on front strut springs using mechanics wire -Remove brake rotors -Remove bottom bolt from both struts. -Remove the long bolt holding both upper control arms to the steering knuckles. On the front of the car: -Remove headlights -Remove front bumper -Unbolt A/C condensor and move off to side. I placed mine on two plastic lawn chairs, with cardboard to protect. Leave all A/C lines connected. -Disconnect lower rad hose to drain coolant, disconnect other rad hoses. -Unbolt power steering cooler and move off to side. -Unbolt rad support and remove. -Unbolt Intercoolers and remove with hoses attached. Plug the hoses at the engine using rags. -Remove airbox and MAF housing with hose. -Disconnect supply and return fuel lines from fuel rail. Use a rag to capture any leaking fuel. Cover the hoses and ends to prevent debris from entering the system. -Remove coolant reservoir. -Remove intake y-pipe and covers to expose lifting hooks. -Remove ECU cover and disconnect harnesses at ECU. Place the harnesses on top of engine. -Disconnect engine to chassis ground near Alternator. One other ground is near the main engine harness, as it routes toward the ECU. - Route main battery cable out of battery compartment and place on top of engine. -Remove oil filter to gain access for A/C compressor removal. -Remove the two clamps under engine, holding the A/C lines in place. -Remove serpentine belt. Note the orientation of the belt around the pulleys. -Remove three bolts holding A/C compressor. -Remove compressor and place asside. Re-install oil filter temporarily -Remove power steering reservoir and detach hoses -Dettach power steering pressure hose at rear of engine, where it meets the steering rack. -In batter compartment, remove heater core hose cover, and disconnect heater hoses. From inside the car: -Remove the shift knob and boot. Remove four small nuts holding shifter housing to car body. Underneath: -Disconnect exhaust from downpipes -If you have aftermarket downpipes, you may need to remove the secondary O2 sensors -Remove three bolts and aluminum shield at rear driveshaft and trasmission mating area. -Pull E-brake up and undo the six bolts holding the rear driveshaft in place. -Pull driveshaft back away from transmission. -Support engine with engine hoist, using the two lifting hooks. Place the chains so that the shorter section is at the rear hook. This is because the engine/ transmission assembly will be rear heavy once all the bolts on the subframe are undone. -Remove front subframe bolts (3 per side IIRC) -Remove two small bolts per side, at rear subframe mounts. -Slowly unbolt the main rear subframe bolts, continuously checking that the engine is supported. -After removing bolts, lower engine assembly slightly, no more than 4-6". -Remove one bolt holding the clutch slave cylinder in place, and remove slave cylinder with line still attached. -Inside battery compartment, remove the cover and two clamps holding the heater hoses to the heater core. Lower hoses out through bottom opening in battery compartment. -Continue lowering engine assembly until it can be pulled straight out and away from the car. -Lower engine onto small moving cart, something with casters works great. Hope this helps.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Account #: 3027
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,679
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- Put it on 4 stands,
- Remove everything from the front - Take wiring harneses off car body(leave sensor plugs and such plugged up, unplug/pull ECU cables out of the box and place on engine) - Remove remaining hoses - Remove front axles(the part that screwed me and added 2.5-3hrs to my pull because I did not have a 17mm axle hex) - Remove exhaust - Unbolt driveshaft - Unbolt 2 shifter rods from the box inside the car - Attach hoist - Remove subframe cross-bar - Undo tranny mounts(subframe attach points) - Undo bottom of engine mounts - Yank the engine/tranny in one piece Make sure to take the core coolant hoses off at the firewall before pulling, also undo the Psteering line and slave cyl(remove entire unit). Pics of my pull in the picposter as well. |
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#8 |
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AudiWorld Senior Member
Account #: 82263
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,399
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Cole Ford |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Account #: 3094
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,470
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#10 |
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Member
Account #: 60276
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 5,655
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SUPPORT STEM CELL RESEARCH! "There are (shop)whores that do provide a valuable service. However, you appear as a whore with no orifices, therefore all you accomplish is space occupation." --Kartman "Those who would give up ESSENTIAL Liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve NEITHER liberty nor safety" Benjamin Franklin
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| Tags |
| 24v, downpipes, extremeperformanceheatcoatingscom, lowering, remove, subframe, vr6, wwwextremeperformanceheatcoatingscom |
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