Go Back   AudiWorld Forums » Audi Models » Audi S4 / RS4 » S4 / RS4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
New! Use your Facebook, Google, AIM & Yahoo accounts to securely log into this site, click logo to login  

Notices

Discussion Forums:
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-17-2005, 06:39 PM   #1
jasaab
Member
Account #: 56784
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 510
Default Engine pulling experts

Have searched the post and I am still confused as to the best way to pull engine. I have been slowly collecting stuff (Miltek DP, RS4 clutch)just waiting for ATP's K04 eliminators (said be due in 3 to 4 months). I would like to pull engine put in clutch, DP's, turbo's and then reinstall. Have pulled many engines but this is the first Audi (HAve redone suspension, cam seals, cam adjuster gasket, TB etc on this car) Have 34" jack stands, engine crane,air tools, 3 car garage but no lift.
__________________
2001 A6 2.7T 6-spd MTM stage IV
jasaab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 06:43 PM   #2
BLK01S4::HB B!SH
AudiWorld Super User
Account #: 52597
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,924
Default you are going to have to remove the bumper,

radiator, condenser, its quite a job
__________________
Stage III Tip : ??? FATS (Race Gas) 3.43 Average Pump gas
---------------
Fastest Tiptronic! ET: 12.259@118.25mph :)
"Turbos are usually the cheapest/easiest way to add power - Posted by: Corrado79 on 2008-05-21 13:22:49
"Amazing that he could maintain a wedgie and talk out of his ass at the same time. That's one skill he CAN lay claim to. - Skydive@W?? 2007-12-18"
---
"good I just added you to my " bitch " VIP list ." -Professional customer service - SIMPPLY@WMS 2007-12-17
---
"i tried the propane file on butane and it blew my ****ing grill up." - mjtaylor::pipedream 2007-08-23 14:21:46
---
"It takes a problem which we don't have and doesn't even solve it" - Mirror|rorriM on 2006-09-26
---
"but yeah you want open loop when you go wot ;-)" - PiggieSmalls on 2006-11-10
---


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ = !@$#!#!!@&%!
----

BLK01S4::HB B!SH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 06:56 PM   #3
jasaab
Member
Account #: 56784
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 510
Default Re: you are going to have to remove the bumper,

I know that but was wondering about sub frame, front drive shaft removal, front suspension removal etc?
__________________
2001 A6 2.7T 6-spd MTM stage IV
jasaab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 06:59 PM   #4
BLK01S4::HB B!SH
AudiWorld Super User
Account #: 52597
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,924
Default as you can see if you go into my pic poster

I left the lower control arm attached since its part of the subframe. You HAVE to remove the front shafts the drive shaft.
__________________
Stage III Tip : ??? FATS (Race Gas) 3.43 Average Pump gas
---------------
Fastest Tiptronic! ET: 12.259@118.25mph :)
"Turbos are usually the cheapest/easiest way to add power - Posted by: Corrado79 on 2008-05-21 13:22:49
"Amazing that he could maintain a wedgie and talk out of his ass at the same time. That's one skill he CAN lay claim to. - Skydive@W?? 2007-12-18"
---
"good I just added you to my " bitch " VIP list ." -Professional customer service - SIMPPLY@WMS 2007-12-17
---
"i tried the propane file on butane and it blew my ****ing grill up." - mjtaylor::pipedream 2007-08-23 14:21:46
---
"It takes a problem which we don't have and doesn't even solve it" - Mirror|rorriM on 2006-09-26
---
"but yeah you want open loop when you go wot ;-)" - PiggieSmalls on 2006-11-10
---


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ = !@$#!#!!@&%!
----

BLK01S4::HB B!SH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 09:08 PM   #5
SD2IN2RBOS4
New Member
Account #: 96560
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 117
Default Re: as you can see if you go into my pic poster

Hey there,
I just recently removed my engine with trans. I think this the best way. what i did was remove subframe with out suspenson parts, i left the suspension on car. I used about 2 to 3" block between the frame and the strut to give me space to drop engine. i would highly recommend that you ceramic coat your exh. manifolds. i got mine done at EXTREMEPERFORMANCEHEATCOATINGS.COM for about $145.00 shipped to me. i brought my header temp down to 300 deg.
SD2IN2RBOS4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 09:08 PM   #6
silva
AudiWorld Senior Member
Account #: 40679
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,947
Default I did mine in a small 2 car garage, on jackstands. Not too bad, if you plan ahead...

I removed the engine and transmission together, with front driveshafts and lower control arms attached. You can also leave the shifter linkage connected. Here is a quick rundown of what I did:

-Lift car onto jackstands. Place the front jackstands just inside where the front jacking points are. There is a small section about 1.5" wide that works great to support the weight of the car. I used a small 1.5" square, by .5" thick wood blocks to protect the finish under the car. Ensure that the front wheels are at least 16" off the ground. This will be required in order to get the subframe out with the steering knuckles attached.

-Remove plastic battery cover and disconnect/remove battery.

On the sides:
-Remove front wheels
-Remove front brake calipers, leave lines connected, and hang the calipers on front strut springs using mechanics wire
-Remove brake rotors
-Remove bottom bolt from both struts.
-Remove the long bolt holding both upper control arms to the steering knuckles.

On the front of the car:
-Remove headlights
-Remove front bumper
-Unbolt A/C condensor and move off to side. I placed mine on two plastic lawn chairs, with cardboard to protect. Leave all A/C lines connected.
-Disconnect lower rad hose to drain coolant, disconnect other rad hoses.
-Unbolt power steering cooler and move off to side.
-Unbolt rad support and remove.
-Unbolt Intercoolers and remove with hoses attached. Plug the hoses at the engine using rags.
-Remove airbox and MAF housing with hose.
-Disconnect supply and return fuel lines from fuel rail. Use a rag to capture any leaking fuel. Cover the hoses and ends to prevent debris from entering the system.
-Remove coolant reservoir.
-Remove intake y-pipe and covers to expose lifting hooks.
-Remove ECU cover and disconnect harnesses at ECU. Place the harnesses on top of engine.
-Disconnect engine to chassis ground near Alternator. One other ground is near the main engine harness, as it routes toward the ECU.
- Route main battery cable out of battery compartment and place on top of engine.
-Remove oil filter to gain access for A/C compressor removal.
-Remove the two clamps under engine, holding the A/C lines in place.
-Remove serpentine belt. Note the orientation of the belt around the pulleys.
-Remove three bolts holding A/C compressor.
-Remove compressor and place asside. Re-install oil filter temporarily
-Remove power steering reservoir and detach hoses
-Dettach power steering pressure hose at rear of engine, where it meets the steering rack.
-In batter compartment, remove heater core hose cover, and disconnect heater hoses.

From inside the car:
-Remove the shift knob and boot. Remove four small nuts holding shifter housing to car body.

Underneath:
-Disconnect exhaust from downpipes
-If you have aftermarket downpipes, you may need to remove the secondary O2 sensors
-Remove three bolts and aluminum shield at rear driveshaft and trasmission mating area.
-Pull E-brake up and undo the six bolts holding the rear driveshaft in place.
-Pull driveshaft back away from transmission.
-Support engine with engine hoist, using the two lifting hooks. Place the chains so that the shorter section is at the rear hook. This is because the engine/ transmission assembly will be rear heavy once all the bolts on the subframe are undone.
-Remove front subframe bolts (3 per side IIRC)
-Remove two small bolts per side, at rear subframe mounts.
-Slowly unbolt the main rear subframe bolts, continuously checking that the engine is supported.
-After removing bolts, lower engine assembly slightly, no more than 4-6".
-Remove one bolt holding the clutch slave cylinder in place, and remove slave cylinder with line still attached.
-Inside battery compartment, remove the cover and two clamps holding the heater hoses to the heater core. Lower hoses out through bottom opening in battery compartment.
-Continue lowering engine assembly until it can be pulled straight out and away from the car.
-Lower engine onto small moving cart, something with casters works great.

Hope this helps.
__________________
silva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 10:18 PM   #7
Hal_TT::CBP
Senior Member
Account #: 3027
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 9,679
Default I pulled mine w/o subframe. Learned a lot =-)

- Put it on 4 stands,
- Remove everything from the front
- Take wiring harneses off car body(leave sensor plugs and such plugged up, unplug/pull ECU cables out of the box and place on engine)
- Remove remaining hoses
- Remove front axles(the part that screwed me and added 2.5-3hrs to my pull because I did not have a 17mm axle hex)
- Remove exhaust
- Unbolt driveshaft
- Unbolt 2 shifter rods from the box inside the car
- Attach hoist
- Remove subframe cross-bar
- Undo tranny mounts(subframe attach points)
- Undo bottom of engine mounts
- Yank the engine/tranny in one piece

Make sure to take the core coolant hoses off at the firewall before pulling, also undo the Psteering line and slave cyl(remove entire unit).

Pics of my pull in the picposter as well.
__________________
Hal.



Whoops...

I wanna ride...

APR Stg3 (and then some) Sold.
Hal_TT::CBP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2005, 11:29 PM   #8
StreetCrawler(Cole)
AudiWorld Senior Member
Account #: 82263
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,399
Default You will have to get behind it and push....


__________________


Cole Ford
StreetCrawler(Cole) is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2005, 12:04 AM   #9
Nick Gustas
Senior Member
Account #: 3094
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,470
Default Think of what you could have learned doing the pull this way :P



Nick Gustas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2005, 12:10 AM   #10
OCA::DIY Motorsports
Member
Account #: 60276
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 5,655
Default Eddy, put this post in your S4 directory!

__________________
SUPPORT STEM CELL RESEARCH!

"There are (shop)whores that do provide a valuable service. However, you appear as a whore with no orifices, therefore all you accomplish is space occupation." --Kartman

"Those who would give up ESSENTIAL Liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve NEITHER liberty nor safety"

Benjamin Franklin
OCA::DIY Motorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
24v, downpipes, extremeperformanceheatcoatingscom, lowering, remove, subframe, vr6, wwwextremeperformanceheatcoatingscom



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Discussion Forums:


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2009 AudiWorld.com Audi Enthusiast Community

Contact Us - AudiWorld - Archive - Top